[Bonjoy]

Due to an acute case of cod-finger I can't do my usual tues + thurs night indoor bouldering after work. So I have gotten me a months gym membership.
 Problem is I don't know squat about what is useful to bouldering gymwise. I want more power, but without bulk obviuosly. Areas I wan't to work on include rockover strength to improve my poor slab skillz, squeezing power for the likes of Western eyes, bi's and tri's for yarding and mantling, abbs for body tension, back of legs for hard heel hooking.Some loss of excess baggage round middle would be helpful too. Any advice, on any of the above, from any of youz training types would be much appreciated. Thanks.

[tommytwotone]

word up bredren, was in that same boat a while back. Hearminow:

Rowing machines. Cut down your excess lard like a mofo, also get you fit as a butcher's dog. Feel that.

Calf raises - top notch for edging i found. just make sure you streeeetch em first.

Bicep curls, but do em in partials (i.e 1 set of 12 o clock position - 9 o clock position, then a set of 9 o clock position - 6 o clock position, then set of full curls)

Lat pulldowns - again, pretty climbing specific but good nonetheless

Loads of free weight bidnezz to be going on with, think I started a thread about 6 months back.

hope that helps.

[webbo]

doing squat's and single leg presses for rock over's,leg curl's for heel hook's.curl's with a bar then some isolation work with dumbell's for bicep's.press down's or tricep extension's on the lat machine and dip'sor even better put a bit of4x2 on top of the dipping bar's.get in to a straight arm mantle position lower down and do a set of presses as though you wre doing dip's.for abb's crunch's leg,knee raises etc.

[Bonjoy]

For the likes of bicep curls, what type of weight are we talking about. Enough to do ten reps or three or what? Tah.

[webbo]

warm up with a set of ten add more weight try to do at least 6 rep's.i used to do 4or 5 set's then do some dumbell work.try not to lean backi.e.just use your bicep's not your back.
single arm pull down's on the lat machine is another good one,you might need to make you own handle for this though.

[Tim Heaton]

This is my workout for antagonist muscles that are not directly used in climbing:

"... routine for the antagonist weights sessions that don't put much strain on the muscles used directly for climbing.

Workout A:
Deadlift
DB Lunges
Bench Press
DB Shoulder Press
Hang/High Pulls

Workout B:
Squat
RDL
BB Military Press
DB Bench Press
Dips

Periodized so that

Week 1: 3 * 5 reps
Week 2: 2 * 5 reps
Week 3: 1 * 5 reps
Week 4: 1 * 2-3 reps

Repeat cycle again with new starting weight the old week 2 weight. "

Most important thing if you want power without any hypertrophy I think is to keep the reps below about 6. I probably warm up with a couple of sets of 8/10 with 90 sec rest and then I need a good 3-5 mins between work sets.

Note: RDL is Romanian Deadlift, google for it. Supposedly it's much better the leg curls for the hamstrings

[Tim Heaton]

Also make sure you finish you workout in under 1hr since otherwise you don't reap maximum benefit, something to do with chemicals in the body I think

[dave]

I'm sure scouse can kit you out with some sorta shoboating gym-posing workout plan.

You'll be grating cheese on those abs in no time!

[Bonjoy]

Cheers. By 8/10, do you mean 80% of max weight or 8 to 10 reps?

[Scouse D]

I do as much aerobic stuff as i can before getting bored(20 mins running or 15 mins rowing), to lose some poundage, then i hit the weights. Top tip is get well psyched first-envisage ripping the head off a cow when you're doing weights for maximum gains.
I rarely venture about 5 reps per set- in this way I'm gaining muchos power with little bulk. 8-10 and you get bulk word. Over 15 and you get toned(also good to throw some high rep stuff in the mix). Sometimes-when fully warmed up I'll do some 1 rep work on lat pull downs and bicep curls.
Do loads of shit on your antagonists cos they'll be weak as piss and you ain't gonna train em any other time-don't need so much power work on these though-more high rep stuff maybe just to balance you out.

[Scouse D]

Fuck...abs.
Do loads of leg raises and weighted ab curls. This, coupled with constant tensing will get you a blingin pack.

[Bonjoy]

Have you ever considered cutting out the middleman and just ripping the head off a cow for power? Beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeef.

[Tim Heaton]

Sorry I mean 8-10 reps for the warmup, about 50% of your 1 rep max, just enough to get the blood flowing and your body used to the movement. I don't bother stretching beforehand much, find the warmup does that for me, but do have a good stretch afterwards. I have found the squats and deadlifts really good for leg strength but even more so for dynos (especially if you do a bit of plyometrics too, need to be fairly strong to do this safely). Also do some abs at the end of every session.

P.s. If you follow this regime you too can be as beefcake as me - 6ft 1 and 10 st   :wink:  :wink:

[Scouse D]

With abs do as dense does and don't overtrain them. I do a bit at the start of a session-abit in the middle- and a bit at the end i.e good rests between sets.

[Bonjoy]

Cheers all. BTW how many productive sessions do you reckon in a week without interfering with climbing on't rock of a weekend (outdoor rock doesn't seem to hurt teh finger for some reason).

[a dense loner]

can i just continually point out how long it actually takes for people to get big!!!! naturally, of course

[Bubba]

Dunno Dense, I found it easy - just eat pies

[vivahate]

i found getting big dead easy, just getting strong was hard

read about some perverted yosemite workout that consisted of finding a weight you can just about do 20 reps with, then getting a mate to psych you into doing 30 reps with it, i can imagine that it hurts like hell and the geezer seemed to suggest that after a few months, he was a monster

ill find the link and post it up

[cofe]

this looks like a good article if you're a gym head. beeeeeeeeeeeef.