[Bonjoy]

Jeepers! Amazing stuff. Any photos? And a name for the direct, not My Apple Buddy I hope?

[El Mocho]

Name of the new Rotor problem: 'My Buddy The Apple'

Word is alive

[Bonjoy]

Genius  

[Johnny Brown]

what is this buddy fascination :roll:

[vivahate]

good effort putting these new problems up.

apple, buddys and chipshops all round

[Bonjoy]

Jamie Lilleman has climbed the wall right of Brad's Rib at Stanton Moor, he's called it Tom Thumb and offered a grade of 7b/7b+.

[Percy B]

Sorry Ru, but heres another new problem courtesy of Gaz Parry and myself at Rowtor to further compound the dated nature of the forthcoming guide.

'The Woodhead Hitcher' climbs through the centre of the roof left of Short Seans reachy roof, and the other problem up the arete and runnels.
Start in the break right in the middle of the front face (the middle of the traverse), stuff a baggy foot jam in and reach out for a lovely little scoop on the lip. Udge leftwards until the obvious big runnel is gained, shuffle up this and mantle, exiting direct.
The landing is quite 'exciting' but the hard moves are easily spottable. We thought Font 7a, and a good one at that. The big pocket in the roof on the right is not used at this grade.

Wierd - spent a lot of time on this block over the years but didn't notice this new line until today - nice new 7a's are a bit of a rarity these days judging by the new stuff mentioned previously in this topic! Gaz also repeated Domes sit start (3rd ascent?) and confirmed the grade at solid 7c+, and the quality saying that without knowledge of the beta it could feel a lot harder........don't they always!

Saw the chalk on My Buddy the Apple but didn't try the direct, just Lovejoys 'out-of-date' indirect version - a bit scary without many pads and spotters! Direct looks ace - a fine effort by the Brans-wibble. Looked at this last year and can confirm it goes but is filthy hard...... :shock:

[Percy B]

Sorry - this site is so slow at the minute I seem to have inadvertantly posted twice through frustration!

[Bonjoy]

How did you get on on the 'out-of-date' 'indirect'??

[Percy B]

OK - 'Madonna'ed' (Got into the groove) but didn't summit due to lack of mats and Gaz's incompetance at catching flying hippies - I was definately lacking commitment up there! Nice problem though - the direct looks good too and probably is 7c if the indirect is 7b :wink:

[Scouse D]

 Direct looks ace - a fine effort by the Brans-wibble. Looked at this last year and can confirm it goes but is filthy hard...... :shock:

I'm sure ben is relieved- he wasn't sure whether he'd actually done it or not.

[fatboySlimfast]

i heard a whisper that the Welford did his thing on marble wall either yesterday or day before

[clm]

you could start the link  into the chip shop brawl ting by doing zippys on the cowper in reverse.....stamina eh??

[account_inactive]

Sorry Ru, but heres another new problem courtesy of Gaz Parry and myself at Rowtor to further compound the dated nature of the forthcoming guide.

'The Woodhead Hitcher' climbs through the centre of the roof left of Short Seans reachy roof, and the other problem up the arete and runnels.
Start in the break right in the middle of the front face (the middle of the traverse), stuff a baggy foot jam in and reach out for a lovely little scoop on the lip. Udge leftwards until the obvious big runnel is gained, shuffle up this and mantle, exiting direct.
The landing is quite 'exciting' but the hard moves are easily spottable. We thought Font 7a, and a good one at that. The big pocket in the roof on the right is not used at this grade.

Wierd - spent a lot of time on this block over the years but didn't notice this new line until today - nice new 7a's are a bit of a rarity these days judging by the new stuff mentioned previously in this topic! Gaz also repeated Domes sit start (3rd ascent?) and confirmed the grade at solid 7c+, and the quality saying that without knowledge of the beta it could feel a lot harder........don't they always!

Saw the chalk on My Buddy the Apple but didn't try the direct, just Lovejoys 'out-of-date' indirect version - a bit scary without many pads and spotters! Direct looks ace - a fine effort by the Brans-wibble. Looked at this last year and can confirm it goes but is filthy hard...... :shock:

Not to piss on you bonfire but I think that this has been done before as being mistaken for Seans

[Johnny Brown]

Aye I'd be surprised if Pat didn't do this back in '97 when he did the big roof.
But if you want the glory...

[Johnny Brown]

Further news from Pat...

He did climb Bonjoy's Rowtor groove a few years back, but admitted to using a knee jam 'twixt tree and rock whilst 'gettin into the groove'. So Bonjoy still keeps the honour of the first tree-free ascent.

He's also been busy at stanage. Any of you crap at jumping will be excited to know he has managed to climb into the finish of big air. Not via the oft-tried direct, but by the lip traverse in from breadline. Expect font 7c/7c+ climbing above an uninspiring landing. Slightly easier for the tall, extra points if you manage to chalk up.
The obvious extensions by starting up either beneath the breadline or the trav in from the storm remain to be done.

[dave]

good effort there from paddy o'king.

i'd like to see him do big air, reverse this new thing into a reverse of deadline into the storm.

[cofe]

i'd like to see glockfax draw a topo for this boulder (shades of salmon slab...)

[Bonjoy]

Phew, glory points saved by a tree dab.(Finally got some half decent pics the other day which will stick up later).
 Top effort once again from Pat King(of style).  Surely the big air direct start must be arriving soon from someone!
 Any other projects dispatched by anyone over the festive time?

[dave]

welford done that direct to marbellous innit, that was nearly xmas time i think.

[Bonjoy]

Any more details on that one?

[dave]

outside new route book just says E8 7a, apparently its the lefthand/original/y tried start to the route, finishing up the existing E8. can't remember the name. done on the 20th or 21st i think.

[Bonjoy]

Kim doing the tall mans sequence on the groove bit of My (and Pat's) Apple.

[Johnny Brown]

Yet more peak news:

Ben Bransby bagged yet another peak project today with an ascent of the long-standing project arete at Cratcliffe. Ben noticed the line during an afternoon's abseiling and pronounced it 'on'. After enlisting the help of a local arete guru to unlock the sequence, Ben improved rapidly and success was assured.

Pics (not of Ben if it's not obvious):


And to avoid any confusion about the location:


Meanwhile, over at Eagle Tor, Kim Thompson also took advantage of the good conditions to despatch the much-tried rib below Dana Awen. Effort.

Lovejoy also did something at Rowtor trailing a string, though I guess that will be reported over on CT...

[Bonjoy]

It was the other project in that area that Kim did ie the right hand side of Rollin' Pat arete, from a sit start. The line has also been receiving a fair bit of atention from Andy Harris, unfortunatley for Andy the short person sequence which looked 8a to me was bypassed by Kims huge lank. Kim thought 7b+/7c but only if you are tall enough to do it the easy way. Kim is thinking of calling it My Lemon, where will all this fruit madness end :roll:.
 The roped thing I did is Apple Tree E5 6c, start as for My Apple but follow the steep rib above the start of the groove, good RP in bottom of groove will probably keep you off the ground from the tricky topout. Nice moves but spoilled a little by the closeness of the tree.