[a dense loner]

few projects were cleaned up today.

straight up thro lowrider (stanage end)(7c?). lowrider into chip shop brawl (8a?). both courtesy of bransbubble.

something at rowtor(7b?). courtesy of bonos joyos

[dave]

if lowrider is 7c+, then how can the direct through (must be blantantly harder) be easier? kwestion

[a dense loner]

answer.
lowrider is a left to right traverse. the direct is going straight up thro the middle of the traverse. its not a 'direct' on lowrider rather a 'direct' up prob thro it :?  but your concerns are grounded. the next one is to start as for lowrider into the 'direct', even the stamina fest that is branston was too tired for this

[Jim]

good effort by the yoof branston. Whats this thing at rowter by some Mexican Chap with a bee fixation then?
Also any names given to new problems. Could have fun with low rider chip shop brawl re-arrangements

[dave]

cheers denise i know what the driect is, seen ian mcshane on it. still looks crazyily harder than easyrider though.

maybe this block could be the new spot for font-style linkups. I suggest lowrider into the direct, traverse left to downclimb/reverse lowrider into the wierd bridging groove behind it, traver left finish up chipshop?

[cofe]

harry potter truly is a wizard. although i heard he trav'ed into direct........

pretty ill watching jon 'dopejoy' lovejoy icing the rowtor ting. Sam Westaker nipped at heels for 2nd ascent and commented "every move is a classic".

i now need to find unclimbed rock and produce My Orange...

[Johnny Brown]

Direct through Lowrider is R.I.P. O.D.B. - 7c, likely to be very conditions dependent. Name was a compromise reached from Lovejoy's Easyrider and Ben's Chip shop buddy:roll:  I bagged the second ascent. Yeah it's a fair bit harder than lowrider but not as tiring.
The big link is clearly the one to go for - Chip shop Bransby. A fine line and probably worth 8a.

Also minor news from last week - Gaz Parry bagged the 4th? ascent of Help the young sit-down. His third visit and he reckoned solid 8a. He then started showing worrying interest in eliminating the start block, so I did it for him, which defo makes for an 8a. And even without that Bransby reckons its harder than Full power, so who am I to argue - get rewriting those graded lists fools!

[dave]

Yeah it's a fair bit harder than lowrider but not as tiring.

has lowrider gone down to less than 7c then?

effort to all concerned. what nature-joy's rowtor thing then>?

[Johnny Brown]

Yeah it's a fair bit harder than lowrider but not as tiring.

has lowrider gone down to less than 7c then?

BUT NOT AS TIRING.

Jeez, these are font grades not Uk tech you know?

[dave]

so hang on, HARDER but lower grade is what yo' sayin right? hows that work?

if you meant it has harder move/s but overall its easier cops its shorter then fair enough, but that int what you said, you just said it was harder, which implies its harder.

some people  :roll:  :wink:

[Johnny Brown]

it has harder moves but overall its easier cos its shorter

Nice one Einstein. You got there in the end.

[dave]

right, so when you said "harder" you actually meant to say "easier". I'll have to brush up my telepathic skills over the xmas break.

so when you said that chav's arete sitter sans block is harder..... :?

[Johnny Brown]

Hey this is bouldering - it's the moves that count, right? So if I say harder, its obvious I mean the hardest move is harder.
Lowrider isn't harder in a bouldering sense, just more tiring, like a route see? Its a 7b up move preceded by 5m of ab-sapping sideways shuffling. Not what I call harder, but worth a bigger number all the same. Perhaps a french sport grade would make it clearer?
Can't believe you of all people, would need this explaining...

[dave]

Not what I call harder,...

think you're on your own there love!

[Fiend]

Ooooh, a grading debate no less, how cute!

[Bonjoy]

The new Rowtor thing is a highball, up easy arete, cross roof by some cunning guppy work and toe hooks, then up hard tenuous groove. Three star 7b, called My Apple. Pics to follow. The pimp got some good footage of both ascents, i'll see if he's up for posting them on.

[Jim]

Nice, did the acsent require bit of marigolds stuck to your hands with superglue?

[Bonjoy]

Thankfully not on this occasion. The maggy patches are for big slopers only.

[grimer]

hi jonboy, did Branby finish up Chip Shop Brawl, or my new route, Chip Shop Brawl, which takes the hanging arete right of Chip Shop Brawl? Now that would be a link. Chip Shop Brawl into Chip Shop Brawl.

[Fiend]

Chip Shop Brawl into Chip Shop Brawl.

It could be like a circular thing, up CSB, down CSB, along the little bit extra of ben's LR extension into CSB, up that again, down CSB again and so on until you got dizzy. Oh, and you'd have to start it with LR of course. Not sure where the direct through LR would fit though but maybe you could link that into High Flyer and go down that and up one of the CSBs and do some figure 8 thing...

...shit, now *I* am dizzy    :freak:

[Bonjoy]

hi jonboy, did Branby finish up Chip Shop Brawl, or my new route, Chip Shop Brawl....?

 Chip Shop Brawl.














 I'm pretty sure it was the leftward topout.

[Johnny Brown]

The new Rowtor thing is a highball, up easy arete, cross roof by some cunning guppy work and toe hooks, then up hard tenuous groove. Three star 7b, called My Apple.

 
Already superseded by the B-rans bubble's direct start. He says 7c. However, he did make it look hard. Considering he did the chip shop link without breaking sweat, I would say much harder.

[Bonjoy]

Wow! How and where? There's nay grips. Was it strainght out from the block under the roof or rightwards from block via crack to ancient chipped jug?Looked at both possibilities but thought they both looked 8a minimum :shock: . Or summat totally diffrent? BTW did you repeat My Apple, what did ye reckon?

[Bonjoy]

Also on the new probs front, saw the elusive Mick Adams doing a new prob on the buttress right of Sole Power last week. And just got a text message from the Lilly Mule asking if the wall right of Brad's Rib at Stanton has been done, which I guess means he's done it.

[Johnny Brown]

Wow! How and where? There's nay grips. Was it strainght out from the block under the roof

 
yep.

but thought they both looked 8a minimum  

 
yep.

BTW did you repeat My Apple, what did ye reckon?

Ben flashed it. I didn't due to struggling to dry my hands after using the snow-filled chips. No such problems for ben - he's a mountaineer remember.