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Huber madness... (Read 12787 times)

Bubba

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Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 10:59:00 am
...not exactly bouldering, but good old Alex Huber has just soloed "Der Opportunist" at a pretty hefty 8b.....



He crazy.

dobbin

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#1 Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 11:05:12 am
I wonder what the hardest route anyones ever soloed is?

I know Marc le Menestrel soloed Revelations at 8a+, Alain Robert is supposed to have done 8b in bare feet as a solo, Dave Thomas soloed flaming drambuie at e6 6b.

I soloed e2 5b, the dateline, Pexhill when I was 16. I am sooooo awesome.

Bubba

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#2 Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 11:10:53 am
Quote from: "Dobbin"
Dave Thomas soloed flaming drambuie at e6 6b


Yeah man, I watched that ascent ... and very scary it was too. Dave nearly came a cropper soloing an E4 on the Sanctuary Wall a while afterwards when he came across wet/loose holds - not good when it's too steep for a rope to get to you. Not to mention his solos of Lord of the Flies and Caveman at Berry Head with a new finish thrown in.

Dunno what the hardest solo is - anyone know? If there's those who can onsight 8b+, you'd think someone would have soloed one....

Scouse D

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#3 Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 12:23:17 pm
I soloed dateline too when I was 16. Soloed Black Magic the same day. Bo selecta.
Dobbin-you ever soloed the Knife? It's fookin amazing...ly scary. I reckon that makes Huber look like a nancy.

Stu Littlefair

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#4 I have the powerrrrrr
February 26, 2003, 12:25:13 pm
I've onsight soloed 8b.   :shock:

No. Really. It was an 8b roof at Las Canadas, Tenerife.

Actually, it felt a bit easy for the grade.
Actually, it might have been a typo.  :?

Bubba

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#5 Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 12:38:47 pm
Stu, in this pic you look like some sort of pervy gynecologist going in a scary Jeremy Irons in Dead Ringers stylee, armed to the teeth with nasty metal implements:


dave

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#6 Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 12:42:00 pm
Isn't that Huber's warm-up route though?

When Mark Leach soloed Sean's Roof it was still given 8c.

Bubba

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#7 Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 12:43:19 pm
Sean's Roof doesn't count coz it's only about 2 feet off the floor....

dave

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#8 Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 12:52:27 pm
I once soloed Fear Of Faust on Lundy, which i recon is about the same angle as that Huber route.

mark

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#9 Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 01:21:32 pm
Hardest solos I've heard of were back in the early '90s when Alain Robert and Jean-Christophe Normand both soloed proper, big 8bs. Which I reckon makes them the first E10, possibly even E11, ascents.

I think the route Robert did barefoot was Cauchemar d'Elephant at Buoux, 8a.

After his 8b solo, Normand decided to train hard and solo the 8c at his local crag. He trained so hard and dieted so extremely that his liver failed and the doctors told him there was nothing they could do and he would be dead within 6 months. He wrote a very moving letter to Vertical saying goodbye to the climbing community. At the time he could barely get out of bed. He went on to make a complete recovery and has since climbed Font 8b.

nik at work

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#10 Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 01:26:16 pm
that is the maddest thing i have ever heard

Bubba

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#11 Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 01:27:08 pm
Quote from: "mark"
He trained so hard and dieted so extremely that his liver failed and the doctors told him there was nothing they could do and he would be dead within 6 months


OMG  :shock:

That's madder than Ian Vincent's old dieting regime, and that was scary!

dobbin

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#12 Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 01:27:22 pm
Quote from: "Scouse D"
Dobbin-you ever soloed the Knife? It's fookin amazing...ly scary. I reckon that makes Huber look like a nancy.


Is that the hanging arete thing to the left? H.A.R.D.C.O.R.E! I can see how that might be scary yes, and effort for Black Magic - quality route.

If Huber or Fred Nicole came to Pexhill (the North West's premier forcing ground) some 65 year old grandad with saggy grey pants would burn their asses like you've never seen!  :twisted:

dobbin

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#13 Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 01:28:16 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
That's madder than Ian Vincent's old dieting regime, and that was scary!


Skinny Vinny! what a character! couldn't mix to save his life but dope tunage!

Bubba

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#14 Huber madness...
February 26, 2003, 01:32:05 pm
He used to play so hard the dancefloor would regularly flee for the safety of the bar!!!

He did get a lot better it must be said, and at least it kept his mind off his crazed training/dieting madness....

Bubba

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#15 Huber madness...
March 05, 2003, 11:00:01 am
A better pic:



Apparantly Spaniard Dani Andrada has soloed "Archipel" at Charent at 8c+ (though he downgraded it to 8c), but this is another "Sean's Roof" type thing:


dave

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#16 Huber madness...
September 16, 2004, 10:28:01 am
vid of huber soloing kommunist 8b+


Bubba

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#17 Huber madness...
September 16, 2004, 10:43:28 am
Weird how it stops before he tops.

dave

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#18 Huber madness...
September 16, 2004, 10:46:22 am
presumably he has to graba rope or something.

Fiend

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#19 Huber madness...
September 16, 2004, 10:58:49 am
Bon effort that man, the crux looks frighteningly slopey and slappy for a solo...

E11??  :wink:

Video is gash tho, hardly captures the movements well and too short  :(

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#20 Huber madness...
September 16, 2004, 11:04:18 am
ain't that the one he did alone, getting a passing rambler to hold the camcorder?

Might explain the crapness of the vid if a handlebar-moustached red sock-wearing bumbly was on the case...

dave

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#21 Huber madness...
September 16, 2004, 11:12:21 am
Quote from: "tommytwotone"
ain't that the one he did alone, getting a passing rambler to hold the camcorder?


what, a rambler on an ab rope? :?

tommytwotone

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#22 Huber madness...
September 16, 2004, 12:11:07 pm
my bad - can't view vidz at work due to antiquated technology...

a dense loner

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#23 Huber madness...
September 16, 2004, 04:21:02 pm
both of hubers solo's are f**kin amazin.

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#24 Huber madness...
September 16, 2004, 04:31:26 pm
Im almost certain that dani andrada has soloed an 8c in Cuenca which is 35 metres long, and not at all a seans roof type thing, gets to about 30 metres off the deck, this is absoloutely amzing. Another spaniard (forgotten his name now) Soloed one 8b and one 8b+ that are 35 metres higth and total stamina routes with cruxes at the top. This is also amazing. Makes these poxy 7 metre E9's and E10's look like a joke. seriously what grade would a 35 metre 8c get as a solo it must be about E14 in comparison to something like the Zone or Knockin.

 

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