[dave]

yo

coupla questions y'all.

Firstly, whats good to do at bowden thats not trashed, and any non-nightmare solos etc? I've done y-front before, and flying fish but thats about it. Is flying stag way hard? also whats the low line of holds that leads left in to the start of the manta?

Secondly, we all know vienna is trashed, so does that mean avoid it cos its trashed, or might aswell do it anyway cos its never going to grow back, or have a go as long as you can do it in a couple of goes etc? Whats the story, what considered fair game? did the footholds get treated? its about 5 years since i last tried it.

Thirdly, whats the flava with back bowden? i know its supposed to be dry in rain a bit but i never been, and is there really any ultra classic essential problem  there, is it worth the detour?

word

P.S. if you're gonna reply do it before about 3 today cos i'm fucking off after that....

[Bonjoy]

Have you done Childsplay, thats pretty bo.

[dave]

no i ain't done that. heard it too was getting trashed though.

[Bonjoy]

The start footholds are a bit scooped out as on many probs at Bowden. It's still very good though. Worth doing before it gets any worse, unless it's wet and prone to rapid erosion on the day.

[dave]

aye, you know i've not one to climb on damp sandy rock. cough.

[cofe]

aye, you know i've not one to climb on damp sandy rock. cough.

who's 'damp' Sandy Rock? do i know him?

[Teaboy]

The problems around the cave seem remarkably untrashed, Dog Eat Dog and Transformer seem to be bearing up well. Captain Haddock is brilliant and less trashed than most, likewise His Emminance.

Kyloe In seems to be made of something more resilient than Bowden and the problems there aren't at all knckered. They've taken some trees down so it dries quicker (but gets wet quicker) apparently.

[dave]

yeah i been to K-lo and hopefully get back there cos the rock is absolutley A1, I really dig it. pleanty of stuff to go at anall.

think we tried captain haddock last time - got up into that elbow-up gaston thing but coudn't get right foot on to get steady. it was quite warm and damp though. is dog eat dog the direct on lorraine, or am i thinking of dont let go?

[dave]

Ahhhhhh, so this is dog eat dog:

http://www.thenmc.org.uk/pages/guide/photos/f666

[Teaboy]

Dog Eat Dog is the right side of the arete up and right of Transformer. Slopey crimps and a scarey top out (might be better to jump down once you get there if its been damp).

You should be able to get your foot out right on the good hold before you move to the gaston thing on CH. Some people miss out the gaston thing and just under cut futher right but I think this is more butch.

[Teaboy]

Ahhhhhh, so this is dog eat dog:

It's not as high as it looks. Is that what they mean when people say you 'frog' with your legs?

[dave]

yeah, bad french style trousers!

cheers for the beta, hopefully will give em a crack.

[fatboySlimfast]

Get on posiedon, dave pegg took the full fall from the breaK AND WALKED AWAY. pre mat days as well. You done stuff like lorraine, theres a good looking arete to the left of that, klondike wall etc. Back bowden hasnt really got the wealth of mid grade probs like front b. old stuff like the Sorcerer are excellent solos cos crux low down.
as for captain haddock, fine problem..........well i would say that

[a dense loner]

smell's a bit fishy to me...

[dave]

yo yo

in the end didn't get much done at bowden at all really, was sort of mad for soem soloing/microroutes (posiedon looks alright) but all the tops were damp, and those that weren't were reyt sandy. did some HS to warm up with and it was an ordeal topping out. came in from the back roadn anall so never made it past crunchie wall, so didn;t try klondike or lorraine either! vienna was totally dry and the footholds seemed alright (the LH one i was using had deffo been sealed and was rock hard, good work whoever did it) so i tried it and got annoyingly close, would get it if there with some other people i recon, it ain't 7c+ though. tried haddock briefly but thought it was wrecking me skin so sacked it. finished off with onsightin clinds play, thats good, boning on iron rugosities, and scary high up as i missed a reyt good hold and instead used a shitty sandy lichenous sloper next to it :roll:

satdy did kyloe-in-the-ass. fuckin love that crag. did monty pythons direct which i'd fucked up last time, failed on that red rum trying to warm up. iced hitchhikers from the floor though and the yorkshireman which was brilliant, one of them times where for one you do everything right.

might put some photos up but none are really that good.