[Teaboy]

Is this really only V7 starting from the back (as described in the late lamented OTE this month?).

[dave]

i always thought it was supposed to be 7b/+ from the back.

to be honest it feels 7b+ even from standing for me, as the back moves are piss and i still can't do that finish.

[jimbo]

Definitely feels harder than V7, like dave i massively struggle with the top bit. Crap eliminate anyway.

[cofe]

i think they'd just enjoyed a heavy aerosol session when they put 7a+ down.

[Teaboy]

Phew, Not just me then! Nice to see OTE maintaining its editorial standards right to the end.

I am getting a bit worried that the lower grades in Ru's new guide might be a bit on the harsh side. It now seems that lots of problems are being downgraded to the V6 V7 mark, punters like me really need a few soft touches to keep us motivated.

[webbo]

Is this really only V7 starting from the back (as described in the late lamented OTE this month?).

if their business sense was as good as their grading no wonder they gone to the wall.

[Bonjoy]

OTE was spectacularly shit with grades this month. For example the same issue which randomly downgraded the Joker to 7c+(next to a picture of Tony Lamiche doing it the hard way) and T-crack V7, gave the piss easy (6b max) traverse left of Green trav and Bentleys a mighty 7a....whatever  :roll:

[r-man]

So the top bit is the hardest then? That's promising, as I've only done it from off the block (so I missed out as many moves as possible  :wink: ). The rockfax gives that B7, which felt ok, if maybe a bit hard compared to the other B7s at Cratcliffe, though I'd imagine you'd be knackered by that point if you did the lower moves as well.

[dave]

think they use one of these at OTE for grades:

[dave k]

So the top bit is the hardest then? That's promising, as I've only done it from off the block (so I missed out as many moves as possible  :wink: ). The rockfax gives that B7, which felt ok, if maybe a bit hard compared to the other B7s at Cratcliffe, though I'd imagine you'd be knackered by that point if you did the lower moves as well.

I believe it is V7 from standing and V8 from the block (without using the chip for the left hand.) I have done it only with the chip, without it requires much more open hand power on the lower moves and therefore is definitely harder than the top move- which is not too bad if you catch the sloper with the RH, and then turn the left hand into an undercling in the break.

Don`t ask me why the chip is out. It just is.

[Nigel]

Reckon this is solid V8 from the block, sans chips. But V8+ is a distinct possibility, as it does have complicating factors of being quite tiring and also conditions dependent. Also depends how you do the last move, if you can get your heel on it makes it a bit easier, but some can't manage that...

[account_inactive]

I thought this was classsic V8+ :roll:

[r-man]

I believe it is V7 from standing and V8 from the block

Hang on a second, I think we're talking about different blocks! I've only done it from the block at the start on the right (ie. the cheating version!) not from the block at the back.  

Must be easier than the standing version, surely? V5/6?

[Johnny Brown]

Hard font 7b from the obvious chalked ledge at the back.
Or... a sustained series of uk 6a and 6b moves with powerful 6c one at the top.

[rich d]

was on this for the first time today, and was wondering about the starting moves for this.
Was going with both feet on the big chalked block at the back, but was starting with left hand in the cave and right hand on the lower bit of crack.
Should both hands be inside the cave?   

Love having days off during the week.

Cheers Rich.

[webbo]

if you are asking i guess you know the answer.

[chappers]

was on this for the first time today, and was wondering about the starting moves for this.
Was going with both feet on the big chalked block at the back, but was starting with left hand in the cave and right hand on the lower bit of crack.
Should both hands be inside the cave?   

Love having days off during the week.

Cheers Rich.

BOTH hands on the chalked ledge, into those under clings in the roof, through to the cracks and up (then if you are me, fall off the last move every time that you try this).

[rich d]

  bizarrely didn't think about it until later, was more worried about the top.
Have to get back on it then.

[John Cooke]

For the top move I turn my left hand to an undercut and go again with my right off the sloper to the top jug. Personally i think it's tough for 7b but a great problem non the less.

[chappers]

For the top move I turn my left hand to an undercut and go again with my right off the sloper to the top jug. Personally i think it's tough for 7b but a great problem non the less.

and the left foot?...

plonk it on the ledge below the crack your left hand is now undercutting?????

[r-man]

For the top move I turn my left hand to an undercut and go again with my right off the sloper to the top jug. Personally i think it's tough for 7b but a great problem non the less.

and the left foot?...

plonk it on the ledge below the crack your left hand is now undercutting?????

Sounds about right. I've done it that way too. It works.

[John Cooke]

For the top move I turn my left hand to an undercut and go again with my right off the sloper to the top jug. Personally i think it's tough for 7b but a great problem non the less.

and the left foot?...

plonk it on the ledge below the crack your left hand is now undercutting?????

Wedge it downwards in the V shaped slot, to be honest i can't remember if it's my left or my right foot that gets wedged 

[Bonjoy]

I've done it with two different foot beta. Either left foot wedged in V or left foot heel-toe in break , this is the easiest way if you are flexible and the top moves go static.

[dave]

Personally i think it's tough for 7b but a great problem non the less.

I also think its hard, didn't feel that bad when I did it but it did for all the 500 previous attempts. I think its shit problem anyway, eliminate, chipped, need i go on?

[Ru]

Is it not about time that chip was filled in? Anyway, agree about the eliminate bit.

[dave]

I've always thought the big slopey dish thing at the top was a bit suspect anall.

[Bonjoy]

The dish is 100% natural. I've been going there since before it became a popular problem and it's never been tampered with. It used to have a black surface like the rock around, but has become rather orange over time as people stand in it to rock over the top.

[tallsop]

I reckon its a brilliant problem, its one of those where the moves feel different every time,it really keeps you on your toes. its an absolute peak uber-classic problem. i think athough its a bit of an eliminate, the rules are pretty simple - once ur outta the cave, dont pull on anything that isnt a sloper!
   i agree that it is time to fill in the chip, apparently the guy who chipped that slab at RHS filled the chips in and made a really good job of it??? maybe i should find out what mix he used and go fill it in???