[Duma]

M - Albarracín, La Fuente and Arrastradero. Warm ups then the stand version of El Plus del Autobus 7A. Brief attempt at the sit but felt likely to aggravate the finger so sacked it. Ollie pulled it out of the bag impressively after thrashing around for ages. Down to the fun slopey mini prow of Marranito 6C and Varanito 7A. Both felt like a huge effort, but nice to feel like I could try really hard without worrying about my finger on the slopers (didn't stop Elyse burning me off on Marranito though).
T - rest
W - Albarracín, Techos. Warm ups on the Worm Up (6A) boulder, did Helicopters on Ankles 6C while we were there. Then down to A Ciegas 7A+, managed it quick but then shut down on A Oscuras 7A to the left. Think they've got the grades the wrong way round on these two! Then up to top of the sector for the brilliant Afropussy 7A, one of my favourites so far. Close to the flash but got a bit mixed up on the slab and finger was feeling uncomfortable so bailed. Went ok once I'd worked it out. Also did the quality Quatretonda 6C and the fantastic Spanish Maiden 6A, before thrashing around unsuccessfully on Techno Oculto 7A+, stupid lowball nonsense (which would have been delightful silliness if I'd managed it)
T - Albarracín, Mezquita and Parking. Ollie was Psyched for Pinball (7B+ or 7B for the stand) and it was a great choice! Warmed up on the highball and top notch Can Guelo 6C, then got stuck into the main event. Compression prow was great for the finger too. Guessed right on flash attempt on the stand, through all the hard climbing, but got tired and a bit wigged out on the high finish so dropped off. Pleased to despatch next go. Sit held out a bit longer but we both sent on consecutive goes. Amazing problem and so good to do it with mates too. Over to Parking after lunch, psyched to flash the famously over used, over brushed, Zarzamora 7B which was actually still well worthwhile. Finished up struggling up the amazing looking feature of La Lengua 6C with the last of my beans. Amazing day.
F - Albarracín, Techos and Entre Aguas. Feeling a bit fatigued now. 6's left of Afropussy to warm up, cool knee bar on Velocidad de crucero 6B+ took a few goes. Trasbase 7A went quicker, then Archienemigos 6C+ while Elyse crushed Afropussy in impressive style. Then over to Entre Aguas, new sector for me, managed El Redil 6C and Variente del Redil 7A before energy deserted me on La Regleta Fantasma 7A, one for another trip.
S - Albarracín, Mezquita and Parking. Final day, support for GF at Mezquita, repeated Hojaldre 7A while she was trying it. Then drawn in to Amanecer caníbal 7B, brutal crimps probably not a great idea on the finger but thankfully got it done without seeming to aggravate it, cost me some skin though. Back at Parking was psyched to end this bit of the trip with a flash of Afilador de cantos 7A+.
S - drive to Siurana, next couple of weeks will be a different test for the finger...

? kg.

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Keep up with general conditioning - yes, and decent variety. Keep up with gentle elbow usage - mostly yes.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - no no no. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - can't remember this being as bad as usual. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - no. Look after injuries - elbow holding steady, shoulders getting stiff, minor brachialis niggle, (gym x 1) - x 1, elbow rehab x 2 - x 2 and feeling slightly better, shoulder rehab x 2 - x 1 and should have done more and more mobility, stretching x 3 - x 2 and should have done more.


M - Indoor bouldering @ RockOver Shartson. 8 x V1-3, 9 x V2-4, 11 x V3-5 (10 flash, 1 x 2nd go, mostly easy, also attempted 1 that was a comedy jump into an undercling), 4 x V4-6 (flash, also attempted 3 more that were too hard / nonsensical in various ways). Was fairly methodical with elbow and avoided a couple of problems, but pushed things slightly too far - elbow a bit sore after climbing but okay during. No dog cuddles whatsoever. Elbow rehab (lighter weight / slower). Stretching session.

T - Active rest. 30 mins walk. 1 hour gardening.

W - Gym. Misc WeakWeights(tm). Similar to before, again with slightly less volume and a tiny bit more weight. Worked carefully back up to 5 x 100kg DL and lower back and glutes felt fine. Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab. Full stretching session.

T -  Rest. 1.2 miles walk, 1.5 miles slow CrippleRun(tm) (0.8 run / 0.1 walk / 0.7 run). Legs okay. Arms and shoulders felt better after.

F - Indoor climbing @ PrestonWall. 6 x V2-3, 6 x V3-4, 6 x V4-5 (all flash bar 2 silly mistakes). Lead 5 x F6c-ish short routes (graded variously F6c+ - F7a but all soft), attempted 2 x F7a (both close). Pleasant despite the silly grading (all bouldering soft too). Elbow a bit sore but okay. Shoulders a bit stiff.

S - Active rest. 45 mins cleaning. New E3/4 (headpunted), new E1 (ab cleaned).  Elbow okay.

S - Rest. 2-3 miles walk. Cuddles with Merlin the long haired sausage, Miska the malamute, and Robbie the retired longboi. Elbow okay.


Okay week sticking with the plan - didn't feel like anything got worse apart from shoulder stiffness, and a new brachialis tweak in my left arm (strained from bicep curls the previous week, but doesn't seem to be affected by climbing). Other stuff seems manageable.


Next week STG: Keep up with general conditioning. Keep up with gentle elbow usage.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

[Wellsy]

Monday - Edge Lifts up to 65kgs on both hands (only shifted it a bit on left). Gentle indoor session for volume of easy climbinh. Squatted up to 90kgs for 5.

Tuesday - rested I think

Wednesday - Edge Lifts up to 65kgs. Board session, was a good one. Benched up 70kgs for 10. Squatted up to 70 for 5 as a lighter session.

Thursday - rested

Friday - Edge Lifts up to 65kgs, then a try hard indoor session on the new Mints at the Works. Felt good to do some moves and make progress. Deadlifted for triples up to 120 and then singles up to 140.

Saturday- rested

Sunday - Weightlifting. Knee twinged so stayed light only up to 60kg cleans. Overhead squats, Weighted Pulls, Strict Press, Bench Press. Also climbed, volume day of just repeating stuff and getting things nice and smooth at the Works on the easier circuits (up to Yellows)

Weigh just under 80kgs at the moment. Left ring finger appears fully healed, left elbow appears mostly healed.

[duncan]

Thanks Duma, that sounds pretty respectable for someone rehabbing their finger. Glad it's not limiting you too much and good luck on the crimps at Siurana.

M - Fingerboard lifts: 18mm edge, crimp, half-crimp, front three, middle two, front two up to 36kg or ~80% max. Shoulder rehab.: Ts, side planks

T - Fingerboard lifts, as above. Shoulder rehab. Hip flexibility: sumo squats and prone frogs.

W - Didn’t sleep much, so just walking (7km). Afternoon at Ottolenghi Spitalfields (get me) with my sister, followed by Víkingur Ólafsson and the LPO playing Brahms’ 1st Piano Concerto with The Editor. Both cheered me up somewhat.

T - Fingerboard lifts, as above, to 39kg. Shoulder rehab./conditioning.

F - Fingerboard lifts, as above, to 39kg. Shoulder rehab./conditioning, adding hand-stands and Ts on the rings. Hip flexibility. Robbie Philips talk and film at Stronghold London Fields.

S - Fingerboard lifts, as above, to 36kg. Shoulder rehab.

S - Shoulder rehab.


Shoulder somewhat better. Regular fingerboarding being tolerated if I don't go all-out, probably a lesson for me there. 

Will start gentle indoor climbing again this week. Down to Weston early the week after so should manage to get outside if the weather plays along.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T. Evening board session.
W.
T. Evening board session.
F.
S. 1.5 hrs indoor bouldering at Shrewsbury Climbing Hut, just going for mainly flashes, second attempts and volume.
S.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - AM as usual; PM farmer's.
Tue - weights, bar work.
Wed - AM as usual; PM weights.
Thu - stuck in traffic, very short on time, 2x AM session.
Fri - AM as usual; PM very short on time, back work.
Sat - tired after a night out. Weights.
Sun - DL as per recent sessions, high pulls, triceps, other stuff.

[Fultonius]

Very little for me this week due to the wrist tweak.

Back to nearly 80kg, seem to really struggle in the autumn gloom to keep the body fat down at levels I want it to be, it seemed so easy in Slovenia!

Tues;Propstore. FB warm up. 6B+ (dropped first go, lack of coordination and bad beta).
6C 3rd go (again, not best beta)
6C+ repeat, 3rd go. 6C repeat, 2nd go. 6B+ flash.

Not feeling at my best on the boulders just now, but hopefully that's because I'm really fit and well prepped for sport.....

Finished with 10 or 12 boulders on the minute.

Tuesday PM is when I think I noticed the wrist was bad.

Weds: full day at a course learning lime plastering, wrist not too bad.

Thu-sun nothing but trying to avoid the wrist getting worse. Physio Sunday am. Stretching, grip twists. Ordered wrist widget.  (update - wrist widget surprisingly effective!).

Not ideal prep for Spain but we shall see how things progress. At the Edinburgh airport now.

Apparently I still don't eat enough protein, and I don't do enough wrist recruitment in my warm ups, so some things to think about.

[spidermonkey09]

Plastering is probably the worst wrist rehab you could wish to do!  Sounds like you got away with it though!

[nik at work]

Agree Re: plastering…

Duma sounds like a great start to the trip, hope Siurana goes well.

M - nothing

T - the works, rubbish aimless session achieving very little…

W - nothing

T - the works, the kids were on the mints, I was mostly stood nearby saying encouraging things…

F - nothing

S - Sam did BoB at Manchester Depot. He did ok, but definitely doesn’t thrive in the comp environment… still enjoyed it and keen to do more. I watched and then ate some chips.

S - Rubicon with Sam and Rick. Again didn’t climb much, and was all a bit half arsed….

Been a bit under the weather this week, post Kaly depression??? Headache, low motivation, general malaise… very boring.

STG - keep on truckin’

[Duncan Disorderly]

Been a bit under the weather this week, post Kaly depression??? Headache, low motivation, general malaise… very boring.

Feeling exactly this...

Keep on keeping on folks....

M: Routes @ AW - Meh...
T: Daughters 13th - Ate pizza.
W: Enegizer Bunny bailed on routes - Moonboard again - repeated a soft 7A and some mid 6s - 20mm pickups up to 40kg RHS, 35Kg LHS.
T:Nowt
F: Nowt
S: Yomped round Burbage in the clag - were a few folk out, took boots but couldn't be arsed...
S: Headed out to see if he was there, he wasn't, went indoors... Fingerboarding followed by 20mm pickups up to 45kg - actually managed 15s on the RHS and 10s on the LHS then upped it to 50kg and couldn't touch either. Probably needed more rest. Interesting... Will aim for 47.5kg next.
Moonboard, warmed up and did a 6C then failed on a load of stuff up to 7A+ and ended up sandbagging myself by creating a problem I couldn't do... Will go next time I'm sure, probably 6C+ish.....

Bleurggggghhh... Slightly tweaked wrist, general malaise. Still plugging away but really just going through the motions til the sun returns in spring (or the clag lifts and the grit psych returns - unlikely but possible!). Good to set my first problem on the MB though - sure to be a classic of the genre 

[Murph]

Very little this last week, not much of a powerful return to pc really.

Monday - Saturday not really on it at all
Sunday - inspired only by my need to get something done for PC I managed a 5k jog and a training session that included 11 pull ups, 20 press ups and that was it.

STG - do more than that this week.

[Fultonius]

Plastering is probably the worst wrist rehab you could wish to do!  Sounds like you got away with it though!

100%, but it was fucking expensive and I'd booked it months ago!

Tbh, if I avoided mixing it was OK, the actual "applying plaster to wall" part didn't aggravate it much at all. It's only very specific positions and movements that seem to cause issues.

[Dolly]

M
T Shed power
W Shed power
T light gardening. Digging. Enough to start sweating
F. Cratcliffe. Isn’t the egg a fucking brilliant piece of rock ?
S lots of gardening. Digging carrying manure lifting stuff
S