Right leg dominant boulders in Yorkshire, peak, wales and lakes

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yetix

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Sep 28, 2016
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Tore my left LCL the other day, so looking for right leg dominant blocs in Yorkshire, peak, wales and lakes. Any suggestions in the 7B-C range are greatly appreciated.
 
Oh yetix!!

I don't have any, I can't even think of any in the 6B-C range lol. Have FB msged you btw (I lost my Whatsapp chats due to drowned phone). I probably have lots of rehab tips if I can remember them....
 
LOOK NO FURTHER
https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cr1ZF9TNEGH/?igsh=MXdkNGlmNDVmNXI3ZA==
 
Too easy for you, but if you're passing Mytholm Steeps I enjoyed Wickerman a lot the other day and thats right leg dominant. Theres also a lowball and powerful looking 7B/+ thing in the same roof which seemed not to rely on heels.
 
Don't assume too easy for me please haha! That last left heel on the vid looks like it might make it a no go Jim! Will take a look at the other suggestions. Thanks
 
Kidneystone at Gardoms seemed very right leg dominant to me doing it the punter start way. I'd guess the trickier, true-start probably is too, and that would just get to the grade range you were asking for.
 
The Mentalist 7C and Crazy Horses at Churnet 7C+. You have to do a fairly easy move standing up on a left pebble for the penultimate move of Crazy Horses. Everything else is right heel/foot.

At Impossible Roof, there's Hard Drive 7A+, which is all right heels. But it's high so youd need to be confident falling/landing safely.

At Anston you could do Beta Blocker 7A, Beretta 7A+, Beretta Extension 7B and Reserved Art 7B+. The start of Reserved Art is slightly harder without a left foot, but I don't think it would cause you any problems.

Feierabend at Stoney West 7B+. I haven't done the top move yet, but the only thing my left foot has done has been stand on a ledge at the start, and briefly stand on a big edge so that I can put a right heel on for the 3rd move, and a bit of flagging. It's highish at the top.

If your knee can cope with the walk in/out: Ride the Wild Smurf 7A+ at the Wave is lowball and nearly all on a right heel. I used a left foot for the penultimate move but I suspect you could find a right foot that would do the job. And if you wanted to try something harder, Short Wave 8A+, which finishes up Jugs 7A (slightly high).

If it still isn't fully healed by May, at Biblins there is Peckitts Traverse 7C / Tears of the Angels 7C+ / Arch Angels 8A which are R-L traverses that are right leg dominant but will need some contribution from your left leg. It isn't much harder to do The Bulge 7A, Pop for the Top 7A and all of their variants with just a right leg.
 
Dexter said:
Depending on your beta cave problem at the tor as well.

Would be s shame to destroy your right knee as well as your left. I wouldn't risk my luck with one leg already out of action!
 
spidermonkey09 said:
I did think that but also thought there was probably another way, didn't look essential.

The left heel at the end of Energy Crisis is 100% essential I reckon. Really good problem anyway.
 
sdm said:
Feierabend at Stoney West 7B+. I haven't done the top move yet, but the only thing my left foot has done has been stand on a ledge at the start, and briefly stand on a big edge so that I can put a right heel on for the 3rd move, and a bit of flagging. It's highish at the top.
Very cool you went to check this out! Once you snatch the LH crimp then you cut and put your left foot on the lip. It isn't very hard on the left leg but quite high and a drop off finish so maybe not ideal on bad knees.

I'm trying to think of good Peak lowball lip shuffles but most seem to be left to right, on the left heel. Some options,
Beretta at Anston is a good shout. Others stuff probably suitable here too.
Compression Sickness at Chatsworth. Excellent problem
Jerrys Traverse at Stanage Plantation is low and technical, only weaklings (me) use the non-standard left heel beta for the crux.
Diagon Alley at Stanage Plantation. Popular new addition, a few pebbles footholds for LF but no heels.
Swingers Party at Bradley. Not exactly low, but definitely no left foot required. Also the two variants.

Fridge Hugger at Blackstone Edge

Sail The Seven Slopes on the lakeside path at Craftnant. Lowball burling on right heels. Short approach.
 
As far as I know this is still unrepeated (will need a quick re-clean no doubt). I thought it was well good and it's pretty much all on your right leg. Green Lipped Muscle 7C - https://vimeo.com/65650697
 
You’re joking at Wimberry is one hard slap all off the right toe the an easier top out which could be done avoiding too much left leg I would think.
 
mark20 said:
sdm said:
Feierabend at Stoney West 7B+. I haven't done the top move yet, but the only thing my left foot has done has been stand on a ledge at the start, and briefly stand on a big edge so that I can put a right heel on for the 3rd move, and a bit of flagging. It's highish at the top.
Very cool you went to check this out!
I thought it was really good, the best problem we tried there (I think we tried everything except Arbeit Macht Frei which had a damp hold).

It's always good to have more options on the peak lime and you can easily combine it with Cucklett Delph if you run out of things to try.

mark20 said:
Once you snatch the LH crimp then you cut and put your left foot on the lip.
Cheers, I'll try that next time.

mark20 said:
It isn't very hard on the left leg but quite high and a drop off finish so maybe not ideal on bad knees.

True, maybe one to consider once it's healed a bit.

mark20 said:
Swingers Party at Bradley. Not exactly low, but definitely no left foot required. Also the two variants.
That's a good shout too.
 
sdm said:
Arbeit Macht Frei

Completely off topic, I'm not usually one to question route / problem names....but what the actual fuck?! In what world is that an appropriate name for a boulder problem?
 
Is it only me who is finding some of this slightly bewildering....

Fiend - partially tears LCL, off climbing for several weeks or more, eases back into it with steady hillwalking, a lot of gym rehab, and indoor bouldering 6 grades below his max with no option of falling.

Yetix - partially tears LCL, drops a grade or two, continues as normal.

:look: :blink: Was I being daft?? I know age, weight, DVTs etc factor in, but was I being paranoid about the possibility of falling off on a partially torn LCL and ripping the entire thing apart and being out of action for many months (following surgery?). Or even just weighting it badly with normal "2 grades below max" bouldering and doing the same thing??
 


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