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Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing (Read 25915 times)

Hoseyb

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#75 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 01, 2024, 11:36:23 am
Don't know how long it will be available, the skateboard stuff from the 29th is no longer available  :wavecry:

SA Chris

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#76 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 01, 2024, 11:53:15 am
Would you go Discovery or Beeb for the climbing.. keen to watch it and get involved, but not if its going to be teeth grindingly bad on the commentry front.

If it's anything like last time, BBC coverage of climbing was terrible, reason why I've spent the £4 (what is the value of a fuckall these days?) for Discovery+ for the month. All sports have all coverage, paid for itself with swimming, surfing and BMX already.

SamT

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#77 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 01, 2024, 12:27:03 pm
Cool. I'll look at discovery plus then.  We already have amazon prime, so is it a bolt on to that??

(just to be clear, the bmx footage I saw was a round up last night by Claire Balding during the swimming thing, so not the full coverage which I'm sure was a lot better, obviously).


spidermonkey09

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#78 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 01, 2024, 01:25:54 pm
Should be available as an app on any smart tv/ firestick. Same way as eg Now TV would be. You can also just watch it through a laptop on the discovery webpage and cast it to the TV.

teestub

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#79 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 01, 2024, 01:39:27 pm
Cool. I'll look at discovery plus then.  We already have amazon prime, so is it a bolt on to that??


I got it as a prime bolt on, same way you can get Paramount etc. was £3.99 for the month, so not horrendous

SA Chris

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#80 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 01, 2024, 01:59:32 pm
Should be available as an app on any smart tv/ firestick. Same way as eg Now TV would be. You can also just watch it through a laptop on the discovery webpage and cast it to the TV.

This is what we have; app on firestick. you can also get the app on your phone and watch from there, and cast I guess, but not needed to try. Note the app doesn't have the £3.99 special rate, you need to get that on the Discovery + website or Amazon. 

Will Hunt

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#81 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 01, 2024, 02:23:18 pm
We have a Virgin box so no direct Discovery Plus app on there - we Chromecast from our mobiles.
I like that you can have as many screens or devices going at once which was useful when diving and rowing were on simultaneously.

I haven't found the commentary too bad. They normally have one person who knows the sport and one "hub commentator" who I assume is a general sports journo with some basic info in front of them. The knowledgeable one normally keeps the other in check!
My wife was audibly gasping and exclaiming at the men's BMX (it really surprises me just how huge the difference in standard between the men and women is - presumably due to historic and present issues around access?). I'm contrast to the French, the British commentators were adamant that the Brit's run would be the winning effort!

edshakey

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#82 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 01, 2024, 05:39:16 pm
Would you go Discovery or Beeb for the climbing.. keen to watch it and get involved, but not if its going to be teeth grindingly bad on the commentry front.

Commentators aside (discovery will be better for that anyway), you probably won't get a choice - there's no way the BBC broadcasts all the climbing when they only have two live streams across all sports. So it's probably a choice between
- Discovery for full uninterrupted coverage
- BBC with maybe a live broadcast of lead part of finals IF there's a Brit, and otherwise a montage that will probably be as satisfying as the BMX one

I like the BBC coverage, and will watch swimming, athletics, etc on there, but for other sports, it's basically discovery or nothing

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#83 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 08:34:50 am
Shauna's post contains all of the timings;

https://www.instagram.com/p/C-QlCSaK-bl/?hl=en-gb&img_index=2

nabbed the 4£ discovery plus offer while VPN enabled as I'd like to hear english commentary.

anyone looking for other options, I was checking before:
Clarosports gives free streaming for LATIN countries, so with colombian/argentinian (probably with spanish commentary, not sure) VPN you should be able to see it;

https://www.clarosports.com/olimpicos/paris-2024/eventos/clb/semifinal-b-lder-m-y-clasificaci-n-de-velocidad-f-36fc2c39/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Gymnastics/comments/1e599dw/2024_olympic_streaming_information/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Paris2024/comments/1edpmxl/where_to_watch_olympics_for_free_online_or_stream/


SamT

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#84 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 08:38:08 am
Note - Shauna's times are French Times I think, they're an hour ahead, so starts 9am here.

Will Hunt

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#85 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 09:16:18 am
Is this a new thing? Each attempt loses you 0.1 point? Is that just if you don't get to a zone that you previously got to?

remus

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#86 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 09:40:35 am
Is this a new thing? Each failed attempt loses you 0.1 point?

Yeah it's part of the new scoring system, I assume the idea is to wrap everything up in to a single number so the humble viewer doesn't have to think about the tops/zones/attempts.

Quote
Is that just if you don't get to a zone that you previously got to?

I assumed it was each failed attempt to get to your highpoint, rather than total failed attempts over the whole problem. Say you had a great first go and got to the second-to-last hold, it would be weird to then discourage competitors from trying again and reducing their score if they thought there was a risk they wouldn't get back to their previous high point.

Wellsy

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#87 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 09:47:44 am
Big Hamish looking great I must say

Will Hunt

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#88 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 10:08:23 am
Ondra's neck looking looong today. Ready to have a medal draped round it in a few days I hope  :wub:

edshakey

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#89 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 10:11:15 am
Big Hamish looking great I must say
Agreed. Only 0.1 behind van Duysen is an excellent result, given the Belgian's superior bouldering pedigree.

Tops are looking pretty challenging currently, but the best boulderers are yet to come...

Ondra's neck looking looong today. Ready to have a medal draped round it in a few days I hope  :wub:

  :lol:

sherlock

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#90 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 10:36:14 am
Tops starting to come now...

SamT

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#91 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 11:27:09 am

That was mega.. really enjoyed it.. Are we doing spoilers etc here, are are we saying chat away and don't look at the thread if you don't want spoilers.

spidermonkey09

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#92 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 11:34:40 am
I haven't watched it and would appreciate a tldr! Think its reasonable to not look at a thread with this title if you don't want to see discussion of the topic,no?

yetix

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#93 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 11:36:00 am
Can't speak for others, but I'm assuming people who don't want spoilers won't check this thread?

I've not watched but have been checking results so far but would love to know more detail!

edshakey

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#94 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 11:50:26 am
I'm a firm believer that if you don't want spoilers about Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing, you shouldn't open the Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing thread.

Yep that was really good. I was worried for a while, route setters were probably sweating too, but at least some tops came eventually. Will be interesting to compare with lead scores - I imagine they'll be higher, but by how much?


I haven't watched it and would appreciate a tldr!

7 tops total, spread over 6 athletes (Sorato the only one with two).
Toby nearly nearly topped a second but didn't quite pull off the match.
Jakob went mental when he topped the first boulder, passionate bloke.
Adam managed a top at the end on M4 to put him in good stead for finals (others did similarly, but obvs we all want Adam to get through!).
Hamish had a really solid round, 8th place and second best of those with no tops. He'll surely be thrilled with that given lead is still to come.

M1 was pretty physical, and I thought a bit height dependent until Sorato (fairly small) managed it as the last climber out.
M2 had a last move that almost everyone made it to and then dropped. Sorato flashed it.
M3 had a final coordination move that nobody looked particularly close to.
M4 was interesting in that it was a a simple slab traverse, but the first two moves got the climbers to the top of the wall, and then they traversed from there. Easy way to add aesthetic appeal I suppose - would look better to the lay person probs.

Overall, pretty enjoyable given it was low scoring. GB guys both did well, I'd have them as likely contenders for finals now (Toby always was, but Hamish has definitely pulled it out the bag at the right time). Wouldn't be surprised if the finals spots are almost the same as the top 8 already, but it's so close, it only takes one bad route read or slip and you'll lose a load of places in the standings.

Edit: broadcast was good although as ever, there were a few questionable director's choices - ie cutting to the crowd while Jakob is fighting hard at the top of a boulder, or watching Colin resting while Adam nearly tops a boulder in the out of focus background of the shot  :wall:

Will Hunt

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#95 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 12:02:24 pm
How many will progress to the final? 8?

Wellsy

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#96 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 12:15:31 pm
Yeah eight go through

I'd say that Toby looks like a v solid shot for a medal. Hamish could def get through to the finals and that would be great to see!

remus

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#97 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 12:29:56 pm
Results available here on the ever-quality ifsc.results.info site https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1386/

Will Hunt

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#98 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 01:08:19 pm
Is this a new thing? Each failed attempt loses you 0.1 point?

Yeah it's part of the new scoring system, I assume the idea is to wrap everything up in to a single number so the humble viewer doesn't have to think about the tops/zones/attempts.

Quote
Is that just if you don't get to a zone that you previously got to?

I assumed it was each failed attempt to get to your highpoint, rather than total failed attempts over the whole problem. Say you had a great first go and got to the second-to-last hold, it would be weird to then discourage competitors from trying again and reducing their score if they thought there was a risk they wouldn't get back to their previous high point.


From the UKC explainer:
Quote
Climbers are given five minutes and unlimited attempts to climb the boulders, however, each unsucessful attempt is punished by 0.1 point deduction.
This means that if a climber reaches the Low Zone on their first attempt, they would be awarded 5 points, but if they reach the High Zone on their second attempt, their overall score would increase to 9.9, as the High Zone is worth 10 points, but their previous attempt would now be considered an unsuccessful attempt to reach the High Zone, hence the 0.1 point deduction.


Note: the -0.1 deduction is only applied for attempts prior to controlling the highest Zone reached or the Top. It does not apply to consecutive unsuccessful attempts, so athletes will not be penalised for making failed attempts to get higher. If they reach the next Zone or Top, the points will be deducted from that higher value.

For example, if a climber reaches Zone 1 in 2 attempts (4.9) and then has multiple failed attempts to get higher without reaching the next Zone or the Top, they are not penalised for further unsuccessful attempts and the score remains the same. If they were to eventually reach Zone 2 in 5 attempts (which would include the first 2 attempts to Zone 1), the score becomes 9.6.

The deduction is only relevant for 'attempts until success' at the highest tier of hold (Zone 1, Zone 2 or Top) reached.

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#99 Re: Paris Olympics 2024 Sport Climbing
August 05, 2024, 01:08:36 pm
Echo the above..  I was worried when ondra came out and could seemingly not get off the ground on M1 (not long after Hamish almost got to the 10 on the flash).   But it built nicely with the tops comeing on towards the end.  I suppose a logical progression given they came out in reverse seed order.. i.e. best at the last.

Ondra was lucky to top that last M4 slab.. otherwise he'd be looking a bit shakey.

 

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