[DScuffle]

Whats TTMM?

[dave k]

no i ain't done it, but i done pleanty of stuff similar standard at burbage and this is probaly the only thing that is so inunspiring i've only tried it once and for about 4 goes and it just ain't worth the skin frankly.

Talk to Me Martin down in the Burbage South Boulders- you don`t lose skin if you send it.

Come on Dave. Are you telling me that Blind Date is a quality line. Its not even a real boulder problem. Plus it is only UK 6c+, as is WSS. Even the original climbing guide only gave WSS E4 6c(+), which is a route by the way.

[dave]

Are you telling me that Blind Date is a quality line. Its not even a real boulder problem.

no, but it's a good warmup.

[jimbo]

so hardcore dave.........................

[dave]

jim you know i've got a license to ill.

[DScuffle]

For the record - I've always thought it was quite inspiring.  And probably easier than the crack to the left of it  

[dave]

A. you mean right, and
B. you're all weird.

[DScuffle]

Your right, and your right :shock:

[cofe]

TTMM T TMTTMTM TMTT MMTMTM TMTTMTT M is worth doing/trying i reckon, but only when you'v done all the good problems at bizzle sizzle. looks quite good i thought - actually on a boulder etc.

i can't wait til blind date goes free, that will be amazing.

[grimer]

Here's one for you bizzle shizzle know it allizzles. On the Dog (does anyone else hate those names?) bizzle (am I doing this rightizzle?), there's a fuckoffwidth, that i've always understood to be Titan's Grandpa. What are the sit starts to the left and right aretes of this. Really powerful biceps JCB type of maneouvres, with your feet on the opposite sides. Annnnnnnnnd, opposite them, from a sitter again, swinging up leftwards to slopers and then a pocket, just right of that campus move off the high edge?

Anywizzle?

[cofe]

Annnnnnnnnd, opposite them, from a sitter again, swinging up leftwards to slopers and then a pocket, just right of that campus move off the high edge?

Anywizzle?

seem to think i've done this ages ago. can't be sure. i've certainly walked away from the fuckoffwidth like john powers from cast many times.

[dave]

been ages since i was on tha dogg boulder. i seem to remember just right of that edge campus move theres a sitting start B7 which i seem to remember looked dedsperate, unless theres summert i've missed, like a foot block in or owt,

[Ru]

The offwidth sitters are not too bad difficulty wise (can't really give a grade as I did em in trainers), but get a bit green and poky. The sitter on the other side is 7a or V6 starting on  the low edge with feet on the plinth. I've done it without feet on the plinth - harder - but it's an eliminate really.

TTMM I thought was quite good, being on a nice barrel shaped bit of rock, with pleasant (ish) moves. The sitter, when it goes, will be hard cos the low pocket is only positive as an undercut, and there's no footholds.

[dave]

didn't the moonster do TTMMSS?

[Ru]

No, not according to him anyway.

[dave]

word - it deffo was reported in the mags though! at least i think i didn't just dream the whole thing......

[Johnny Brown]

You dream about Ben Moon doing sit starts?

[clm]

TTMM has been chipped!!!  May have been ages ago so not any earth shattering news but the chip has got bigger (is that a stupid thing to say)  i remember as i ripped the whole endx off one fingerizzle on it.

[dave k]

Not stupid

I heared rumours of that too. But I am pretty certain it hasn't been chipped between 1998 and 2002, as that is when i first tried it and finally did it. It is sharp as a m****** *ucker though. Definite flapper potential, especially from sitter.

I also heared it had been done from sitter at 8a+ by Moon. In the guide book it actually says it is done from sitter at B9 (had me worried for a while at the time). And who says Peak is soft. If it is a project then I must say that I REALLY feel inspired. Sorry Dave.

All it requires is the ability to do a two finger tip locked pull up on a sharp bitch crimp (vitually footless) to snatch a propper grit sloper. Followed by a UK 7a move.  Our very own Karma.

[Andy F]

Try going down the M62 and getting off at the Junction with the M57. Go to Pex Hill and have a go at Monoblock.  English 7a with bells on.

Andy F

[Ru]

I thought Ben did it too, until I asked him. Dunno where the rumour came from, I think it was definitely reported though.

The sitter would be a really good project if it wasn't for the fact that it's brick hard. The issue isn't that the crimp is so small, it's getting to the crimp. The starting pockets are shit, there's no footholds, and it's about a 3ft reach between pockets and crimp. The right hand pocket is a decent undercut, but again, there are no footholds, and the boulder gets steeper towards the bottom, so smearing is going to be very hard.

[andyh]

"Go to Pex Hill and have a go at Monoblock.  English 7a with bells on."

sounds far too hard, and far too close to liverpool for my liking.

reckon with scoop de grace, blind date and potentially ttmm i've got my 7a's to go for.

btw - titans grandpa whatsit ss crack aretes thing. this is hard- i've witnessed an 8c climber fail to get his arse of the floor, though admittedly there was loz's b'day special flapjack involved.

[Andy Harris]

Maybe I got it all wrong but here's a few thoughts.

I was going to start off a similar thread myself but didn't get round to it. Had a quick scan of the last 4 pages but don't have too much time to reply so here's a few random points around this whole area.

There is absolutely know way a lot of 7a moves on grit are 7a (WSS & BD are not english 7a) the moves are simply not that hard. If people climbing those routes think they're climbing 7a they're kidding themselves.

To climb an english 7a move would require more power/strength/fingers than a 6c move. So even though 10 6c moves on the trot may be doable by a  person they may not be able to do a 7a move. Even though as a font grade that problem with lots of 6c might get a bigger grade than the single 7a move. Surely this shows how the english tech grade helps to differentiate.

The Ace cannot be solid 7b because the Joker is harder than the 1st moves of the ace and that's only a 7a move. It's simply 2 hard moves into a dynamic problem on very poor holds that are incredibly conditions dependant (incidentally that leads you into doing the Joker in the original variation (left foot on) ratehr than the easier footless variant. Original variant ¾ repeats, footless- dozens)  Superman isn't 7b either (ask Ben or Malc) just 2 hard 7a moves on the trot.

An english technical move is what it says, a move not a series of moves. ie. 4 6c slaps aren't 7a (WSS?). They might be the same font of v grade but if you're not strong enough to climb english 7a you aint going to do it. Compare the JA at stoney (1*7a move) or similar hard move with something like Powerband, jerrys traverse etc etc. What problems have more repeats and which are thought to be harder even if the grade doesn't refer to it.

Ever noticed how hard problems are getting longer and longer (Dreamtime, Wheel of life) and consequently the move isn't being pushed, just easier moves linked together. Who's really pushing individual moves (Gaskins, Smith??)

7b moves in the UK: hubble crux, sampson, Gaskins problems, Quintessence, No of things at School, foundry pinch problem

easy 7a: crux of evolution/jehovakill/ bens drop down move/JA/
solid 7a: revelations crux, sweetest thing, pinch 2, pink indians eliminate, joker, Quintessence
hard 7a: superman, , 2nd crux hubble
easy 7b: hubble crux, sampson?
solid 7b: snot/pinky perky at school, crux brandenburg gate
Don't think the jump from 6c to 7a is bigger than from 6a-6b but when you can just climb a hard 6a, 6b is miles off and a hard 6b move would be the living end. It's just as things get harder more people are ruled out and progress within the grade gets slower.

As a young lad inspired by Ben Moon on Agincourt and tales of power for me the hardest moves were where it was at. Just think would you prefer to do 1 7c move or 10*7a together. I know what the pure boulderer would say.

have a good wend

Andy

[Johnny Brown]

Whatever. You are just talking about power. I could equally argue the only truly hard moves must be on slabs. Otherwise it's just a question of how strong you are, not how difficult the climbing is. If all that interested me was power, then I'd be a weightlifter.

[cofe]

instead of a shirtlifter?

surely the hardest moves are on bang vertical walls or a few degrees either way...?