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Pinch Test Rubicon (Read 2138 times)

simon40

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Pinch Test Rubicon
June 20, 2024, 09:29:22 pm
Hi
Strangish question but how hard in Pinch Test compared with others such as Sissy and those to the right of Caviar
Cheers

mic_b

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#1 Re: Pinch Test Rubicon
June 20, 2024, 10:42:13 pm
Pinch test is one / two really hard moves so is difficult to grade. I thought it was easier to red point then the sissy / dangerous brothers / tribes. But those 2 moves were significantly harder than any moves on the other routes. So imo easier but I could full understand anyone that found it harder 

stone

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#2 Re: Pinch Test Rubicon
June 21, 2024, 07:48:37 am
Haydn mentioned this in a thread about another route
That sounds exactly like the pinch test at water cum jolly which is 7c+ and definitely not 8a
when replying to
I know nothing, but I do know that no 7c+ has a 7B boulder on top



 ;)

Hahaha. I would give it 8a.
« Last Edit: June 21, 2024, 07:53:44 am by stone »

kc

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#3 Re: Pinch Test Rubicon
June 21, 2024, 09:08:57 am
I was with Zippy when he did this and it was definitely giving 7c+ and shown as such in two previous guide books so someone has tinkered with the grade. Anyway I did in jest suggest he grade it VS 7a to reflect how unbalanced it is.

mark20

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#4 Re: Pinch Test Rubicon
October 27, 2024, 08:50:16 am
I thought this was a great little sequence. Much easier than the Sissy and pleasant holds by Rubicon standards. Felt like a knacky font 7B so more likely 7c+ than 8a, but the holds are quite slopey and conditions dependant

My sequence was similar to Ted's in this vid. But from the LH gastony-crimp (at 1.06 in vid) rather than go again with LH to the crimpy rail (my RH would ping off the pinch) I got my RF on the break, flicked RH to small bobbly undercut, then went LH to the rail


 

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