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Semi-static / LSK recommendations (Read 1573 times)

mrjonathanr

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Semi-static / LSK recommendations
May 09, 2024, 08:39:05 pm
Semi-static / LSK recommendations please, something suitable for a 100m abseil that doesnít weigh too much, is reasonably durable and not too stiff after a bit of use.

I thought the Peztl Club 10mm looked ok: https://www.petzl.com/GB/en/Sport/Ropes/CLUB-200-10-mm

and English Braids Tutus 10.5 seems pretty good value: https://englishbraids.com/tutus-static

If any more knowledgeable folks have any suggestions and experience of use and longevity, that would be great. Thanks.

Fultonius

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Herbrides?

Much of a muchness from the ropes I've used. We destroyed one rope (that I got end of a reel from Heightec) a few years back. Sent it back and they couldn't see any issue with it. End the end we decided it must have been sharp belay devices (Petzl Reverso is known for getting quite sharp from running in guide mode a lot).

So....moral is - check your belay device.

mrjonathanr

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Thanks, I will!

Gogarth, but hopefully it'll last a few years so..maybe..

Lopez

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Worked a fair bit with the tutus lately and got no complaints, which is good.

 Stiffens a bit but nothing too crazy, it turns into a twisty nghtmare of snakes fighting spaghetti monsters if you don't take precautionary steps and a bit of care (judging by ropes provided by some outfits) but it's fine if you do (judging by the new set i claimed for myself remaining sane for several weeks of use).

Not overtly heavy either.

On the light front, i have a 9mm Edelrid performance that i really like. Goes somewhat stiff with use but that's a good thing on a skinny rope to help avoid tangles. They do a canyoneering version which will probably replace my vintage old one when it's time to retire https://www.alpinetrek.co.uk/edelrid-pintail-lite-9-mm-static-rope/
« Last Edit: May 09, 2024, 09:35:45 pm by Lopez »

mrjonathanr

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thanks. Beal Industrie looks a good workhorse rope too.

Johnny Brown

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We sell a lot of low-stretch rope. 10.5mm or 11mm are standard, and most companies treat it as a consumable, so they go through a lot and generally buy mainly on price. The manufacturers know this and compete to be the cheapest, but customers quickly sniff out a rope that is less durable. Over the last decade Beal Contract and English Braids Tutus, both in 10.5mm, have been the biggest sellers. If they want a 'better' rope we sell them Beal Industrie although we only stock 11mm. Generous discounts to any walk in customers but postage costs aren't cheap.

I think all these are a bit thick for an ab rope and I'd go for 10mm or 9mm. If you have a belay device suited to 8 or 8.5mm ropes it may be difficult to use with a stiff 11mm - I had to carry a second device for a while when I was using Reversinos. Now I have a Pivot and a thinner ab rope. 9mm can be a bit terrifying on a big intimidating ab like you get in the Barra Isles, but like 8mm lead lines you get used to it.

I'm not convinced you need 100m and have always got away with less. Originally I got full 200m a reel very cheap and split into 3, they are generally a bit over length so plus stretch, minus knot, you get 70m+ which is plenty for Gogarth in my experience. I think on Pabbay we had a 90m 9mm which was long enough for the biggest abs although there wasn't loads to equalise anchors - you can always take have a separate 15m length for the rare times it's needed.

In the small print, most manufacters suggest 'conditioning' the rope by washing and drying it, just in water. This shrinks the sheath onto the core and washes out some of the lubricants used in weaving. You end up with a much stiffer rope without the supple new feel but in theory it should last longer.

As Lopez says, beware uncoiling rope that has been wound on a drum or reel. You may never get it properly untwisted. It has to come off like sellotape, which isn't easy if they've removed the drum it was wound on.


mrjonathanr

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Cheers JB, thanks for your input.

The ab at the left side of the main cliff near Heroin was 90m I thought? I've only done it on someone else's kit so may be wrong?

Johnny Brown

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Not done it but Heroin is in my guide at 55m? Traversed in as far as Scavenger, can you not get further?

Easter Island gully is the longest ab Iíve done there, but the actual ab isnít that long itís the gully down to it. Forget what we did exactly but we had 70m LS rope, suspect we used that down the gully then used the climbing ropes for the steep bit.

Fultonius

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Having just reclimbed prophecy on a 9mm (or 9.5) 100m I can confirm that it's both pretty terrifying! And, a bit tight on a 90. I think we only had 5m extra and we used a separate rigging rope so the knot was near the edge.

Much nicer retrieving and coiling the 9mm over an 11mm too!

The abb off the grey wall recess had me thinking "really would not like to jug out of this on a 9mm....."

Johnny Brown

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Iím not too proud to admit I was shitting bricks at the top of grey wall. The ground is so far away you can barely tell if the rope reaches.

Fultonius

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 :boohoo:
Iím not too proud to admit I was shitting bricks at the top of grey wall. The ground is so far away you can barely tell if the rope reaches.

Climbing Spit In Paradise was totally chill compared the abseil! It was long enough go through about 4 district  phases of fear.


mrjonathanr

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I went with 100m of Petzl Club 10mm from Inglesports. Seemed like a good compromise on weight/diameter/durability and cost. Weíll see how it fares.


 

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