the shizzle > beta - chuffing

Plectrum Maxilla Direct

(1/1)

mic_b:
 I tried this today after seeing in it on the routes cleaned or re equipped thread.

I managed to boulder it out to a good flat crimp and big rh sidepull but was struggling to do the move to the big flake.

Is it just take the small sharp 3 finger crimp with lh and flick all the way to the bottom of the big flake with rh or is there a better way I was missing?

Also what's the gear beta after the flake?

kc:
I remember threading some nuts into some pockets in the break but just to the right where there is a bit of a ledge you will find a much larger thread for a sling. I think you have to run the next bit out to the ledge where there is a good but hidden double bolt belay.

mic_b:
Thanks I’ll check it out properly on a rope next week. I thought the boulder problem start was really good and was around 7B to where I got

Navigation

[0] Message Index