the shizzle > power club

Power Club 751 29 April - 5 May 2024

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monkoffunk:
M - Yoga
T - Gym, deadlifts, weighted pull ups etc.
W - Yoga. Rest.
T - Few recruitment pulls and body weight hangs.

F - Portland in the evening. Back to the Snowflakes boulder to try the project along the lip. Worked the moves to warm up. After a couple of false starts to get back the knack for the first move, the problem went. Liberal Agenda, 7A+ first ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6ifTEnNJOn/?igsh=a2wxOXRkOGY2NmNz

A good line, probably overlooked due to its location off the beaten track (hidden in a pit) and somewhat awkward landed above a block. Then repeated Snowflakes, mostly for the grade comparison, but also adding proper blinkers at the top to just use the small crimps on the arête as per FA.

After this went to try a couple of 7Bs, Bordo Della Terra and Workshy. Bordo went well. Reassuringly I did almost all the moves on the 7B bit, and the moves I didn’t do were mostly on the start shared with a 6C+. Here my serious lack of finger tip skin integrity let me down. Not enough rock or plastic. Too much friendly wood.

Workshy somewhat further away, but still an improvement on when I tried it a few years ago! One move to do but it’s a proper crux, by far the hardest move on the problem, and essentially what the problem is all about. Perhaps not quite enough juice after everything else, will try again another day.

Definitely helped me to confirm that Snowflakes and Liberal Agenda are both in the 7A+ bracket and not hard for the grade. First move is a bit of a stopper though so I think 7A+ probably is justified.

S - Rest.
S - Yoga and rest

Very happy with the week, only my second first ascent and the other was eight years ago.

Going to take a few rest days now as been feeling the elbow extensors a little bit recently when training, nothing bad, but need a bit of a de-load.

Aussiegav:
Thanks Duncan

Monday -

Finger board on 18mm edges
6x 10s hangs. 
4 hangs at a total weight 79kg.
2 hangs at 84.5kg.
Effort level 7/10

Tuesday
Elbow strength training

Wednesday
Rest

Thursday
Fingerboard on 18mm edge. Half crimp
Six 10sec hangs. Total weight 82.9kg. Felt good. 7/10 effort level
 
40min peloton Tabata ride



Friday

Saturday
Golden Wall
The wall &  the climbs were better than expected. Enjoyable afternoon with Phil.

Undiscovered Blacks   5c   Lead β
Poison Flowers 6a+ Lead β
Black Bryony   6b   Lead β
Blinkin' 'eck 6b+ Lead β
The Blicks   6b   Lead RP   failed Onsight, did next go
Really enjoyed Golden Wall. Did all bar 1 route which looked the worst of them all. Which I’d not return for, but overall, I’d recommend a visit if your operating in the 6’s and want a 4 hour session on rock.

Wanted to climb at 3new crags in the Peak this year. Done two already.


Sunday
Strength training at Virgin Gym
Upping the weights. Elbow strength increasing.

Duncan Disorderly:
Better late than never... club.

M: AW - Few MB problems up for 6A+ then routes up to F6c.
T: 15 miles on the push iron (well it's actually carbon but you get the drift)... Nice to get out but seemed to cause issues with elbow and shoulder....
W:MB @ AW - 10 problems 5+ to 6C+ inc new 6C flash!
T: Sheaf Bloc - 1st time this year - Hoped after all the MB work it would feel easy... It didn't! Couldn't even do the hard move on the Traverse FFS... Had to remind myself that it always feels about F8a until you get it dialled then it goes back to F7b (not that I have any idea really as I'm the only idiot who does it).
F: Rest
S: Surfing @ Cayton - Nice session! Followed by a walk round Bemptom RSPB to see some puffins and Flamborough to see some seals - nice!
S: Drove over t'lakes and biffed up some multipitch VDiffs with the GF in the drizzle - Great!

Not the best training for Verdon week! Have somehow managed to re-tweak my SLAP torn shoulder and have some acute hip pain on the LHS (possibly brought on by sitting on my surfboard of all things!) so am going to need to rest a bit more than I want and just accept that I'll possibly be sub-par in the Verdon... Hopefully experience and not being in excruciating pain will count for something - we shall see!

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