I couldn’t understand why the person who took everything out had not removed it completely?
This was not there when I visited most recently.
I can see plenty of people take the ethical view of wanting to keep things pure and adventurous. … it would be good if it was more pragmatic.
The BMC access arrangements are
pragmatic.
I was also grateful for the convenience of all the roads carved through nice fields which I drove along to get there, the nice path I walked along and the helpful bridge I used to cross the stream.
The roads are public highways maintained under democratic principles, nominally for the wider public benefit. The paths and bridge are part of the public rights of way network and must be maintained by the landowner. These are also under the oversight of the local highways authority, so under democratic principles nominally for the wider public benefit.
The belays on top are pretty shit and the e1 we did to get to the top was shit and quite dodgy rock.
The belays at the top are perfectly adequate. Afterall this was how the anchors were placed. Once one knows what gear is required and where to place it, it is a quick affair to recreate. That one then has to reascend to the top and remove the equipment at the end of a session is a minor inconvenience (and was commonly considered part of the act of climbing).
There are … even other bolts on the same bit of wall
All the bolts on the buttress had gone when I last visited.
A couple of bolts up the back to clip stick up and not leaving ropes in place probably would have avoided all this fuss…
You can basically clip stick up the route in this case so why add any more kit (round the back)?
