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Spad climbing (Read 3658 times)

spidermonkey09

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#50 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 05:58:48 pm
Steady on Tony; think you'll find it was JB that actually initially said that might be a compromise solution in post #26!

Tony

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#51 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 06:06:39 pm
There are a couple of very old pegs at the top (top in a sporty sense, end of the clean overhanging rock, where it transitions into a chossy easier angled groove) of EOTT. These are where the bolt was that I saw chopped . The bolt backed up the pegs which are now pretty poor. I think one has no eye and the other was shit.
This is nonsense. Here’s a tip: do not use these pegs (they’re probably ~50 years old). There are a couple of small wires in that area in good rock, use these (backed up to the perfectly good gear at the top) if you wanna top rope.

On a separate but semi-related topic, has EOTT had many on sights? Steve? Jacopo?
A more pertinent question is how many have tried these routes ground-up? It is 1 of about 3 E7s to reasonably ground up in the Peak District. It is 1 of 2 that could be done without any change in grade entirely without any in situ gear. There is no need for any in situ gear on any of the routes on that buttress. That is the most remarkable thing about those routes: hard but completely protectable climbing.

Tony

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#52 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 06:12:45 pm
think you'll find it was JB that actually initially said that might be a compromise solution in post #26!

No, it was posited as an (potentially unpalatable) option by Jonboy, you suggested it was a good idea.

spidermonkey09

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#53 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 06:19:28 pm
Yep, I still think that. Call me ignorant all you want.  :wank:

Ed booth

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#54 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 06:40:50 pm
[quote author=Tony
This is nonsense. Here’s a tip: do not use these pegs (they’re probably ~50 years old). There are a couple of small wires in that area in good rock, use these (backed up to the perfectly good gear at the top) if you wanna top rope.
[/quote]
What is nonsense?
We must have a different assessment of good runners. The couple of small wires you mention didn’t jump out at me. I was lowered in by my partner and hung around looking to make a natural belay there and didn’t see much that inspired any confidence.
Similarly the gear on the top that you previously described as more than adequate , is in my opinion, not brilliant. Loads of heavily weathered cracks of exfoliating limestone.
I can see that you won’t agree with me so maybe this is a futile debate.

 

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