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Spad climbing (Read 2164 times)

Tony

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#25 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 09:33:37 am
I couldn’t understand why the person who took everything out had not removed it completely?
This was not there when I visited most recently.

I can see plenty of people take the ethical view of wanting to keep things pure and adventurous. … it would be good if it was more pragmatic.
The BMC access arrangements are pragmatic.

I was also grateful for the convenience of all the roads carved through nice fields which I drove along to get there, the nice path I walked along and the helpful bridge I used to cross the stream.
The roads are public highways maintained under democratic principles, nominally for the wider public benefit. The paths and bridge are part of the public rights of way network and must be maintained by the landowner. These are also under the oversight of the local highways authority, so under democratic principles nominally for the wider public benefit.

The belays on top are pretty shit and the e1 we did to get to the top was shit and quite dodgy rock.
The belays at the top are perfectly adequate. Afterall this was how the anchors were placed. Once one knows what gear is required and where to place it, it is a quick affair to recreate. That one then has to reascend to the top and remove the equipment at the end of a session is a minor inconvenience (and was commonly considered part of the act of climbing).

There are … even other bolts on the same bit of wall
All the bolts on the buttress had gone when I last visited.

A couple of bolts up the back to clip stick up and not leaving ropes in place probably would have avoided all this fuss…
You can basically clip stick up the route in this case so why add any more kit (round the back)?

Johnny Brown

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#26 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 10:47:58 am
Quote
What perspectives do you expect to get?

Well I've not climbed here for a decade and don't know the details. There was a fair amount of support on the UKC thread - the stuff removed was immediately replaced. What is guaranteed not to help matters is getting into a bolt war where stuff is continually removed and replaced. There is a wider issue here too - there is loads of similar at Stoney, for example, which personally I don't like - if I want convenience and fixed gear I go sport climbing.

As suggested above, there is potentially a compromise solution where much more limited fixed gear can still allow access for those with a clipstick. What cannot continue is a knotted rope down a Hard Severe - they won't agree to that on the grounds of visible tat or the potential for little Jimmy to get into big trouble. I can't see much of an issue where climbers go as a competent pair, but Ed seems to be suggesting he would prefer to be able to turn up alone? As much as that might be what happening it seems a bit of bonkers precendent to be setting.

The same landowner who is content to have over a 100 dogs on a dog walking meet on a summers afternoon like we witnessed last May.

I'm sorry but some perspective is required here.

You should do some access work. It is an educational experience to sit in a stakeholders meeting representing climbers and find that the majority view is that, a) climbers are not special (who knew - I mean wtf?) and dogwalkers have an equal seat at the table, and moreover, 2) landowners and conservationists are united in their view that an activity like a one off mass dog walk is considered less damaging (if they stick to main path etc.) than climbers being on the same route 3+ nights week for several hours.

Birders/ wardens tend to keep different hours to climbers, but also creep about, carry binocs etc and see a lot more than you might imagine. It's easy to get into a bit of an ownership mindset, when working a route like this and seeing next to nobody, that you can do what you like and no one sees, let alone cares. But in place like this if they're not watching directly there will be someone noting less nests in the area compared to previous years. The sound of a power drill is highly unlikely to go unnoticed. These things might not be enough to trigger contact, but they do get pulled out in meetings to weaken your negotiating position.

duncan

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#27 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 11:26:13 am
Ed, thanks for coming on here. I’ve used fixed lines on Portland and other spots where they are accepted and there are no access issues relating to fixed gear. This is not Portland, it’s a space we share with others, a very public feature. The landowner wants to present a Picturesque Landscape in a way that doesn't create undue risks to visitors or unduly interfere with flora and fauna. These aims are in tension with climbing and to retain access we have to be pragmatic.

When I read the other thread my first reaction was how is fixed rope considered acceptable when leaving quickdraws overnight is not? I now get that the rope is not immediately obvious but, as well as the visual aspect, kids do like to explore and a rope might be seen by the landowner as encouraging them to get out of their depth and so creating undue risk. The working compromise in this part of the world is discrete bolts do not significantly detract from Picturesque Landscapes but in situ quickdraws, chains, and bits of rope do. It's a bit contradictory in some ways but the landowner is providing roughly what the great majority of visitors expect. If the landowner was less sympathetic it would be very easy for them to ban climbing here and possibly on their other lands in the region. The landowner is influential, a quasi market leader, and if they move in this direction then other landowners will be taking note.

I will never go near the 7c+ or the 8b but they look amazing. It would be good to preserve access to them even if this means a bit more work each time you try them. I've done the E2 but, if I hadn't, I'd be pretty pissed if access was lost.

(I have my own views on bolting and fixing a rope up a route climbed pre WW1 but that’s not for this conversation).



Hacker

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#28 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 12:24:18 pm
Worth noting that the location is on access land so climbing access can't be banned easily unless others know differently?

https://www.peakdistrict.gov.uk/visiting/frequently-asked-questions/faqs-access-land#:~:text=What%20can%20I%20do%20on,picnicking%2C%20photography%20and%20bird%20watching.

Johnny Brown

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#29 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 12:31:23 pm
There is a big difference between being allowed to climb and being allowed to install bolts. At some point (hopefuly not here but somewhere) I expect the situation to arise, as it has in the US, where an entire area has to be completely cleared of all fixed gear.

Hacker

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#30 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 12:57:30 pm
Agree.
Looks like I'm be wrong about the open access anyway. The OS app shows the particular crag as open acess but the Natural England site does not. Neither show any of the southern crags on the easy bank as being on open access land and it wouldn't be worth contemplating loosing those.

Bonjoy

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#31 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 01:59:49 pm
Yes, I don't think Ilam is on access land. It's in a National Nature Reserve and there was a programme to dedicate NNRs as access land that started in 2015, but there were stated exceptions to this based on terrain and conservation, either of which might plausibly apply in this case. https://magic.defra.gov.uk/magicmap.aspx is the most definitive online record and it doesn't show it as being access land.

ToxicBilberry

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#32 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 02:15:14 pm
Whatever happened to going about your business quietly with as little fuss and impact as possible? Alternatively why not rig a circus up at the crag and spray all over the internet about your personal journey. …. Nowt wrong with a bit of spad climbing now and again.

jwi

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#33 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 02:35:11 pm
This is extremly confusing without knowing the crag. People are toproping an E7 (or possibly a 7c+?) and cannot simply solo a 5b to get up a toprope? So they must install a via cordata instead? Surely not? Does the 5b ascend kitty litter?

Will Hunt

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#34 Re: Spad climbing
Today at 03:09:16 pm
Does the 5b ascend kitty litter peak limestone?

Yes.

 

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