the shizzle > power club

Power Club 748 8-14 April 2024

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Aussiegav:


Monday -
Finger board
Usual warmup protocol felt good.

Tuesday
Virgin Gym.
Strength training
1min on 2min off. Auto belays. 10 laps on 6a

Wednesday
Rehab & rest day

Thursday
Rehab & physio. Discharged from service.
Finger Strength assessment on 18mm edge. Half crimp
Total weight 93.6kg.
Previous assessment was on 12 Feb pre surgery. Total weight achieved was 105kg.

Friday
Peloton ride. 40min


Saturday
Planned to climb at Stoney Garage, but pulled the pin due to the rain. Went to Virgin and 30mins of 1min on 2min off on the auto belays.
Walked out of the gym and then the sun came out.

Sunday
Strength training at virgin gym then broke down the collapsed backyard fence and cut into pieces and took to the tip. Hard work on the right forearm where the surgery was.

Hopefully getting out on some rock next weekend

Duma:
Thanks Gav.

M - early start to move boats. Drive back to Bristol. 12 hr night shift.
T - eve, TCA, 60 min. Quick hit before work, first session for a week. New whites up downstairs (high 6's to low 7's). Tried 17, flashed 7, 5 second go (3 should have been flashes), 2 3rd go. Only a couple of goes one the other 3, ran out of time. 12 hr night shift.
W - eve, TCA, 60 min. Another curtailed session before work. More whites, repeated 1, tried the remaining 4 downstairs, did 2 quickly, other 2 are probably doable but one of them hurts my wrist. 12 hr night shift.
T - eve, TCA, 45 min. Squeezed a third mini session in a row in, as planning to get out Sat so want to rest Fri. Whites upstairs, managed to get all 12 done, but at the expense of a warm up. 12 hr night shift.
F - aft, run, 6k, hilly, trail, didn't time it. Terrible nights sleep...
S - Cheddar, Lion Rock. Back on Lion Sleeps Tonight (8a). Interested to see how it would feel after a winter of almost zero routes or endurance training. Good connies but < 3 hrs sleep probably negated that. 4 tie ins. 1st go just getting draws in, warming up, and remembering sequences. 2nd go tried some short links but mostly refining beta. 3rd go dropped middle crux from the ground (getting through this to the undercut rest on Shadow Walker is around 7c/+ I reckon), and then went from the rest below the middle crux to falling getting my foot up on the last hard move. Really pleased with this, linking the middle crux to pretty much all the hard climbing in the traverse and top arete is a big step I think. 4th go feeling a bit tired still and the pub was calling, but got to middle crux again, actually feeling a bit fresher than last go, but tried a slightly different foot sequence that felt good off the rope but turned out not to work from the ground. Fairly confident I'd have got to the undercuts with the normal sequence. Attempted link from undercuts to top but dropped it getting foot up again, probably just tiredness catching up.
Really good session, sequence pretty dialled now and think have a decent chance next time if I'm fresh.
S - feeling bit broken but at least slept better. Aft, TCA, 90 min. New comp wall set so bit more jumping around than usual. 10 problems 6A+ to 7B, flashed 7, 2 quick, one took about a million goes (sideways running across volumes). Fun session.

71 kg.

Psyched it's cheddar season again, keen to get back to LST while it's fresh in the memory.

monkoffunk:
M - Recovering from bronchitis. Two sets of repeaters at body weight 7 on 13 off 10 reps. First set half crimp, second set crimp. Felt way easier than normal but weight hit 73.8kg post sickness. (Water retentiony 86kg post Christmas peak). I was expecting to feel weak despite the weight loss. Will be interesting to see how running feels though…. Night shift. Also ate some high calorie pie with potatoes and vegetables.  Yoga.

T - Post night shift. Few longer body weight hangs with long rests just to test. Half crimp, 24, 25, 25, 30, 11, 22 sec. Really start to struggle at 25 seconds. Yoga.

W - 6k run. Surprisingly ok, but did not push. Yoga.

T - Submax hangs. First time in a while adding weight so started well below previous max. 5x10 sec hangs +10kg, two mins rest between. HC, HC, C, HC, C. Half crimps felt fine, crimps actually felt pretty max! Some physio exercises. Yoga.

F - Pre night shift. Board at project. Repeated old warm up on main board from years ago that I can’t do when I’m super unfit. Then tried on some stuff on the 45 board up to 7Aish. Pulled some moves, felt good. Yoga.

S - Rest, but night shift so sleep poor. Yoga.

S - Last night shift. Fingers before. More experimentation with protocols, still building up, higher volume at lower weight seems steady.
Set of submax hangs, this time 10 on 50 off (+10kg) x3 for 3 sets, HC, C, HC. Then long rest.
Then repeaters 7 on 3 off (BW - 73kg) x6 for 2 sets, HC.
No time for more as had to run for work!
Felt reasonably steady reducing the rest time on the repeaters, I vaguely remember this feeling super hard before, but conditions, BW variation etc, who knows. Yoga.

Definitely recovered from sickness, feel pretty much 100%.

Optimistic forecast for Portland this coming Friday, so with any luck catch up on sleep and get a bit of rock climbing in!

duncan:
Thanks Gav. Sounds like you're close to your pre-surgery strength. It can be difficult to get back the last few % after knee surgery, not sure if there is any data for elbows, but you've got a good measure to track progress.   

Encouraging on LST Duma. Conditions could be decent some of the time this week by the looks of things. 


M - The Reach, with csl. Some very easy juggy 5s and 5+s, elbow felt a bit better for this. Falls training.

T - Fingerboard pick-ups: all grips, heavy weights with the left hand; a few light ones with the right.

W - Hip flexibility: frog stretch, pancake stretch, sumo squats.

T - The Reach with Shirin and Billy, more juggy 5s-6a+s, more falls training. Shoulder/elbow conditioning: reverse curls, handstands, side planks. Hip flexibility.

F - Shoulder/elbow conditioning as Thursday. Fingerboard pick-ups as Monday. Hip flexibility.

S - Mile End wall for the Rock On shoes demo, looking for alternatives to/replacements for old-style Testarossas, my current squeeze for short sport routes. The near-ubiquitous Instinct VSR and somewhat less ubiquitous Boreal Lynx came top for fit. The Sportiva people didn't have the latest Testarossas but the Genius' (same last?) also fitted well. I wasn't convinced by the no-edge sole on small resin footholds, thought my current shoes (a more than 20 year old design) worked better. Demo shoes have had intensive stretching but it was interesting I could get into considerably smaller sizes than I currently climb in. At those sizes my heels fit. Also did some stretching (hips not shoes).

S - The concrete Font. A few easy (Ft3-5) repeats. A few left hand fingerboard pick-ups in the evening but was feeling tweaky so stopped.


Elbow a little better but still disappointing for April. Some long overdue falls training, ~50 this week.  A bit more stretching.

Enjoyed visiting a new-to-me wall and climbing with some new people. The Reach is an attractive space with a variety of wall angles. The staff I encountered were lovely. The setting is decent at the easy grades I was doing although some of the routes were a bit reachy (cough) and the grading a bit hit and miss. Centre ropes are in place for top-roping on some lead lines. I’ve not seen this before and it felt like a hazard: tangling with one if you fell leading is unlikely but could be nasty.

Left wrist feels tweaky this morning, need to see how this settles before making any plans. Weather finally seems to be getting better and other half back soon so hopefully can do more climbing on rock. Aiming to get up to Malham this weekend (autocorrect is trying to send me to Balham...I sincerely hope not) though I will be flailing on the warm-ups in my current state.

Duma:
Hey Duncan, were there any of the new Sportiva Mandala at the demo? Interested to try these as I like the sound of a stiffer no edge (Futuras have been fave bouldering and indoor for past 10+ years) for sport, but concerned that they're apparently wider than futuras.

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