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Power Club 747 1-7 April 2024

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Aussiegav:
 Power Club 747 1-7 April 2024

Who’s bloody rain dancing?
Can you please do line dancing instead?

Getting back into it. 6weeks post surgery.

Monday -
Strength training at Vigin gym

Tuesday
rehab. Hard to fit all sessions in and work.

Wednesday
Fingerboard session. Usual warm up routine ended up with 2x7sec hangs in half crimp

Thursday
Rehab

Friday
Tenpin bowling with family. Right elbow faired ok. Scored 150 & won. Pleased 🤣🤣

Saturday
Climbed at Awesome Walls.
Did 10 routes. Vertical terrain. Movement was good. Elbow untroubled.
Two grade 5s, 3 grade 6a. 5 grade 6a+.

Sunday
Strength training at virgin gym then 30 minute peloton ride

duncan:
Thanks Gav. The elbow rehab. seems to be going pretty well if you're able to do some brief fnigerboarding. I'd be pleased with this kind of result at this stage. As you said last week you'll have no strength in the 'new' range so time to gradually ramp that up.

M - S:

This week I did:

7 brisk walks of more than 7km.

4 sessions of fingerboard pick-ups: all grips, mostly left hand, but a few with a light weight with the right to rehab. elbow.

3 sessions of shoulder/elbow/wrist conditioning: supported hand-stands, side planks, 'face-pulls' and YsTs with gymnastic rings, reverse curls.

1 session of hip flexibility: sumo squats, pancake stretches, prone frog stretches. Not in the habit of doing these regularly yet.


Elbow is still quite sore so no climbing this week. I'm on full-time parenting duties and the weather has been mediocre so FOMO has been kept to acceptable levels. It is beginning to get a bit tiresome however and there are worrying signs that warmer temperatures and dryer rock might be on the way!

Left arm finger strength tested by 'pick-ups' is gradually getting back towards my best. It is still extremely poor relative to the grades I climb and aspire to climb. I'm weaker on that side and tend to drag everything so training left only and being conscientious about giving multiple grip types equal attention should help in the longer term. Still wish I was doing more actual climbing and attacking a board feels a way off. 

Had another investigation on Friday, hopefully when I get the results I'll be more confident to venture a bit further from civilisation again.

In other health news, my post-Covid loss of smell and phantosmia seems to have got worse again. I can now prepare Nattō without gagging but overall I'd rather have some of it back. Any thoughts?

Plan: do some gentle climbing and falling. Continue with the finger training. Do more flexibility work. Stop moaning about my health!

 

monkoffunk:
M - Nothing. Quite sick, slept a lot.
T - Yoga
W - Yoga
T - Nothing
F - Yoga
S- Yoga
S - Yoga

Last weeks ’cold’ turned into bronchitis. Slightly more than standard blip, but still just a blip, particularly compared to what some here have overcome/are overcoming! Back on it soon.

No training or climbing this week and too sick to work. Last couple of days I’ve started practising full crimping without taking weight off as per Ned’s book. Never seriously trained full crimp so I’m hoping some gain to be had there.

Diet a bit whack this week. Been good progress this year, previously I might have let excesses of Easter followed by illness derail me, so keen for a correction this week. Surprisingly lost weight despite quality diminishing and thinking I was keeping calorie intake up.

Fiend:
Next week STG: Get back on track with training and rehab, and keep going with stretching - mostly apart from stretching. Take extra care with new and exciting GE flare-up - mostly, a bit tender but has coped with harder climbing.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - made some mistakes with thumb skin management. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - one harder problem. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - decent overall due to the Lancs lot. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - no but sabotaged by grumpy OAP. Look after injuries - not sure, achey today, gym x 1 - no, elbow rehab x 2 - yes, 2, shoulder rehab x 2 - yes, 2, stretching x 3 - 2, should have done more.


M - Indoor routes @ Boardroom. The bollox hieroglyphic gibberish pseudo-grades haven't spread onto their routes yet, so did F6a+, 2 x F6b, F6b+, 2 x F6c, 2 x F6c+, 2 x F7a (and attempted a F7a+ disguised as F6c+). A few practise falls earlier on but my climbing partner was a grumpy OAP who changed their mind after agreeing to my specific request of falling practise, and rather than risk a full session sulk, I sacked them off. Climbing was fun. Elbow a bit tender warming up but fine by a couple of routes in. Elbow rehab, shoulder rehab, full stretching session - pleased to do all that.

T -  Active rest. 2 hours cleaning and brushing and stuff. Kept it fairly steady so not too fatiguing. New GE had occasional twinge on a couple of movements but otherwise fine. Shoulders tired after previous day.

W - Rest (unplanned - shite motivation). Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab.

T - Board climbing @ Depot 30°. Had to barge in between Adam Lincoln and Nige who should have been sticking to a proper big boys' board. 4 x easy warm-ups, 4 x medium warm-ups, 2 x harder warm-ups. 1 x repeating a harder problem for the first time since 2022. 2 x a new semi-hard problem I set last week. A few attempts on other things. Skin pulp was crushed well before muscle fatigue. New GE a bit tender warming up but fine on medium / harder stuff. Generally quite a fun, if brief, session - not any heavier/weaker than usual. Stretching session listening to an excellent hardcore techno set from DJ AniMe in the evening.

F - Thumb flapper day. Attempted 6C+. Quite close but no link. Wore away a flapper in my thumb from a sharp pinch.

S - Finger flapper day. 1:20 hours walking total. 6C (flash), 6C (3rd go), tried a 7A - did almost all the individual moves but no chance of a link. Do think it might be possible for me with good rest before, perfect leather skin, colder crisper conditions, and the whole day methodically focusing on it. 2:30 hours drive and 20 mins walk from home tho. Tore a small flapper in my finger from coarse holds.

S - Climbing day. 6C first ascent, 6B+ 3rd ascent, 6C (3 goes), 7A (3 hours). Shoulders battered after the last one. One more finger flapper from catching a sharp flake. Elbows a bit tender but okay in the circumstances. Shoulders tired and achey.


Interesting week. Mostly got back on track with training, if you count trying hard at the weekend. Trying hard isn't enough to get me up boulder problems tho  ::) Did okay with rehab, not so okay with stretching and once again need to try harder with that.


Next week STG: STRETCHING. Take a rest day. Shoulder mobility. Indoor steady volume session.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

Duma:
b]M[/b] - aft, TCA, tired from lots of days on but knew I wouldn't be climbing for the next week so did all the purples (low 6's) and failed a few times on the 7c+ circuit.
T - packing, driving.
W - walk, beach
T -
F - lots of walking
S - boat work
S - boat work

? kg.

Back in Bristol today, now for a few night shifts, urgh.

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