[Wellsy]

Anyone recommend any Limestone 7Bs that are worth getting on this summer?

Ideally ones without one hard stopper move (Nazgul LH for example, I've tried and it's basically all down to the move to the pocket on the lip)

[Fiend]

Shittest training plan for Crescent Arete EVER 

[dunnyg]

Neds problems trowbarrow. One of the few I've done, but I enjoyed it.

[stone]

I'm keen to hear of less well traveled examples but I enjoyed the ones that get done loads and loads:
Kudos, Kudos Traverse and Caviar start (Rubicon),
Powerhumps, Kristian's problem  and Out-of-my-Tree start (Ravens tor)
Alpha (despite the ghastly pocket on the "easier" upper bit) (Anstons).

Rubicon also has more powerful shorter problems that are (and were) beyond me such as Dancing Fish Standing and Bigger Splash Direct, that many people love.

If you like low-ball traversing, the first bit of Stamina-band (Tor) up until it joins Powerband equates to 7B I think and is really cool. I've heard that bits of the DogsDinner traverse likewise make great 7B problems.

[Droyd]

A few good ones in the Peak:

Goose Grease at Lees Bottom (better and more 7B if you don't use the big left heel for the crux) - lots of nice holds.

Sticking with Lees, some people think Chiggers is 7B rather than 7A+, but either way it's a good power-endurance problem with lots of moves, none of which are too hard individually.

Not sticking with Lees, Twisting in the Wind at Windy Knoll is another 7A+ that some think is 7B with lots of moves that's really good.

Jericho Road at Crag X - nice-ish holds, sustained rather than cruxy, lovely setting if you've not already been.

High Green at The Tor - Weedkiller's slightly harder and rattier but less polished brother. Maybe not 'good', but reasonable to work and has a short walk-in, plus it's definitely not soft (but also not a sandbag).

Conies Musselbrook and Ferrino at Conies Dale - both possibly a bit soft, but I thought quite nice. Loads to go at at 6C-7A+ too.

Sheep Shifter at Cave Dale was always nonsense at 7B, but as a certified board beast it'd probably be a good one to get stuck into. Definitely quality.

That's all I can come up with in the Peak that I'd actually recommend - mad considering how many good 7Bs there are on grit.

Further east, Neanderthal at Hollin is quite good - potentially doesn't quite fit the criterion as the stand is 7A+ and the consensus seems to be that the sit is 7B+, but it's reasonably good and Hollin is a good crag for low-sevens mileage.

Breach of the Peace at Nearcliff is another on the 7A+/7B borderline - provided you get it in condition (low humidity, high wind) it's good. Very much not a nice setting though.

[Wellsy]

Great recommendations, thanks! A lot of those look really fun :D

[User deactivated.]

Elysium - Smeaton Edge
Sheep Shifter - cave dale 
22 chambers - Tremeirchion
Hook ups and link ups - Church Crag

If you're keen for longer drives then Lakes / North Wales mountain rock can be great in summer.

Also, the right grit problems can still work when it's warm. I stayed on grit all summer last year with a fan and antihydral as needed!

Shittest training plan for Crescent Arete EVER 

 

[spidermonkey09]

 Mo's Undercut at Sprotborough is good. It's not 7B+ despite what UKC says.

22 Chambers is good but I thought it was brick, in that I couldn't do it!

[andy moles]

Left Wall yr ogof Parisella

The antithesis of one hard stopper move

[205Chris]

I'm keen to hear of less well traveled examples but I enjoyed the ones that get done loads and loads:

If it's less well traveled you're after Brock the Start is a contender for the best Limestone 7B in the Peak - bonus points for being a Jerry tick too.

To make it more worth the trip you could also add Minos start at 7A+ and Entree start (7Cish? - never did it though so can't comment).

[abarro81]

- The independent part of Staminaband is 7C not 7B, and is not really a problem
- Jericho road is 7A+ non?

[stone]

- The independent part of Staminaband is 7C not 7B, and is not really a problem

Is it more than history that means it isn't really a problem? If the first reported problem had been Staminaband (or even one of the longer combos), would Powerband be more of a thing than the independent part of Staminaband?

I'm really surprised by the 7C thing. I've not heard that before.

[abarro81]

All the tor bouldering is arbitrary so in that sense it's no less a problem than powerband... But history does exist, so it isn't a problem in my view  Let's not start breaking down everything and making subproblems - powerband to the crux, Mecca to the groove, Call of nature to bolt 4, R&H from a ladder... Where does it end?! Down that route madness lies.

You might be thinking 7B to the good hold before the undercuts? The full first part is harder than Powerband IMO. If it were 7B Staminaband wouldn't be 8A. It's 2 7B back to back IMO

[Bonjoy]

Drowning My Sorrows in Dirt, 7B+ but otherwise fits the brief perfectly.
Absolute belter of a climb. Steep and slappy prow climbing, mostly on rounded grippy rock. Very unlimestone like.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/dirtlow_rake-23722/drowning_my_sorrows_in_dirt-435337#overview
The landing has had a major makeover since the photo on ukc was taken. Now has a broad flat landing.

[shark]

- Jericho road is 7A+ non?

Non

[remus]

Diamond White and Early Call at Earth Quarry both fit the bill, and as a bonus they're both a bit soft.

[stone]

All the tor bouldering is arbitrary so in that sense it's no less a problem than powerband... But history does exist, so it isn't a problem in my view  Let's not start breaking down everything and making subproblems - powerband to the crux, Mecca to the groove, Call of nature to bolt 4, R&H from a ladder... Where does it end?! Down that route madness lies.
You might be thinking 7B to the good hold before the undercuts? The full first part is harder than Powerband IMO. If it were 7B Staminaband wouldn't be 8A. It's 2 7B back to back IMO

OK, I guess I'm pleased that I ever was able to do that full first part non-problem!

I agree I'm always getting blank looks when recommending weird partial stuff with extensions etc (eg starting linkup routes on the lefthand side of the Tor by aiding past the Revelations crux). It might be more symptomatic than causative though.

[Dingdong]

My vote is for sheep shifter, hands down my favourite climb on limestone and if you’re a board climber it suits well.

[moose]

Diamond White and Early Call at Earth Quarry both fit the bill, and as a bonus they're both a bit soft.

I suspect that doesn't apply if you have long legs, although admittedly, I wasn't giving it full beanz when I tried - I found the nasty landing a bit distracting and it all a bit too litter-strewn and graffitied to linger.

[remus]

Diamond White and Early Call at Earth Quarry both fit the bill, and as a bonus they're both a bit soft.

I suspect that doesn't apply if you have long legs, although admittedly, I wasn't giving it full beanz when I tried - I found the nasty landing a bit distracting and it all a bit too litter-strewn and graffitied to linger.

Oh interesting, I thought the landing was totally fine with a couple of pads, though admittedly the slab does feel a bit spicy (but also much easier). The crag definitely has an air of Rotherham chic though.

[Bonjoy]

Just remembered another one I thought was good when I did it. The landing is fine and you only need a pad for the crux. Doubt it's been repeated.
King Crab 7B+ (short version with sit start is Hermit Crab 7B)
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30398.msg596540.html#msg596540
https://www.instagram.com/p/B_F1IdyjeyR/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Here's an even more esoteric one I did in 2012 and just realised I'd not written up anywhere. Now added to UKC.
Nanaggedon, Nan Tor - 7B
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wetton_mill-21532/nanageddon-723517

I should add, these are esoteric in location but the climbing is better IMO than equivalent graded ones at the usual limestone crags. Not that I expect anyone to believe me enough to try them out. With that in mind...

I've always rated the start of Caviar (as far as the jug out left) as the best 7B at Rubicon by a long way.

[kac]

Another one that I enjoyed was dawids eliminate at nearcliffe and i'd agree breach of the peace there is good. I found nearcliffe a much more peaceful and nicer place going fairly early in the morning. As part of the high ball training how about light worker at leavitt hagg. Not tried it myself would like to this summer. I'd echo how good sheep shifter is and a good one when too hot at the more obvious places

[stone]

It's great to hear about stuff such as Sheep Shifter that I'd never heard of before. The UKC Logbook website also has a three star 7A (Ram Rod) there. But that crag isn't in the 2023 RockFax guide! Seems such an oversight.

[Wellsy]

I think that Sheepshifter looks like something I'd love to do, that seems maybe the top of my list!

[User deactivated.]

A wild card. Not lime, but non-condition-dependent, board-style grit on positive holds... This would be fine in summer IMO.

Room To Breathe Stand Start, Hawkcliffe. 7B from the stand, which starts a few moves in (on LH sidepull and RH on the 2nd undercut, 20s into vid). Highball top slab but font 3 or 4 once over the lip.