[Duma]

M -
T - eve, TCA, 120 min. New blacks (high 6's to mid 7's). Tried 16, 7 flashes, 4 in a few goes, close to 1, 4 not close, but nothing written off yet. Good session, always fun on a new set but felt like moving pretty well too. Exhausted by the end, probably stayed 20 min too long.
W - day, golfers was feeling yesterdays session. Eve, TCA, 120 min. New blacks again. Pretty tired but paced it a bit better. Tried 16 (including 3 from yesterday). 6 flashes, 2 in a few goes (including one from yesterday), close to 2 more. Still not written any off. Golfers not happy, bit of rest and rehab for next couple of days I think.
T -
F -
S - aft, TCA, 120 min. Blacks, tried 8, did 2 quick, lots of attempts and reasonable progress on the others.
S - eve, TCA, 60 min. Quick hit as can't get climbing for the next couple of days. Tired and ideally would have rested or run. Blacks, finished an "effort" one by just trying it at start of the session. Dropped last move of a hard one a few times. Bit of progress on a couple more.

71.5 kg.

Fun couple of sessions at the start of the week, but been tired since and elbow def a bit worse than last week.

[monkoffunk]

M - Portland. Snowflakes - Very cool problem and first 7A+ in a session in a long, long time. Possibly first ever; the one I did before was pretty soft! Interestingly, did it twice as I wasn’t sure if used an illegal hold at top and second time round it was so much easier without the pressure. Some mental game to work on!
T - Yoga
W - Gym. Lighter session than usual.
T - Yoga
F - Yoga
S - Yoga + 5k run after work
S - Nothing.

Noticed that forearm extensors not really totally recovering between sessions at the moment. Feeling up near elbows. Have really only being training again for three months so decided to do a bit of a deload and rest pretty much all latter half of the week. Focus on getting back into some consistent fingers next week and may Portland again Wednesday night after work if the weather magically improves.

[Aussiegav]

Thanks Duma
Monday -

Continued with rehabbing throughout the day.
Edge pick ups on 20mm lattice edge
6lifts each hand.
20kg half crimp and full crimp.
Scapula pull-ups


Tuesday
Usual rehab during the day.
Virgin gym in the evening


Wednesday
Elbow rehab throughout the day.
Edge pick ups.
Managed 3x40sec hangs from jugs


Thursday
Rehab throughout the day
40min peloton ride.

Friday
Virgin in the evening. Feeling stronger, still someways to go.

Saturday
Virgin gym climbing wall. Did 3 sets of 5 min climbing on aut belay. Very easy route. Some strains on the elbow but nothing bad.


Sunday
Alton Towers. Walked a ton. Didn’t get rehab done
40min peloton ride in the evening

[shark]

M. Nice day. Was intending to go soloing at Stanage but posting on UKB felt the urge to see where I was on Bens. Did okish. THFML first go. Cross through after 6th attempt I think. Lacked accuracy on throw and didn’t manage to latch the crimp. Couple of attempts from start but didn’t link through. Only one day off after board session coupled with long drive on Saturday may have taken edge off.

T. Better than forecast. Tor with Ioan. Few goes on Tin Of. Felt tired, lungs felt heavy. Still struggling on the crux. Disappointing

W.

T.

F. Tin Of again. My method of 30+ years no longer works for me with the high gaston having deteriorated. Reworked it incorporating a two finger crimp. Didn’t do it in a oner but hope to next time now I’ve sorted it out.

S.

S.
S. Lovely day. Went to Stanage and soloed three routes but wasn’t feeling it. Went home fully intending to train but felt exhausted and went to bed instead

Current at a low ebb.

[Wellsy]

Monday - Deload week so no training this week and ideally nothing too punishing. Rested on this day after feeling truly blasted on Sunday

Tuesday - Rested

Wednesday - Think I had a nice session doing a load of Reds and a Murple at the Works

Thursday - Rested

Friday - Hour and a bit at the Works, flashed a Wasp and did a couple others. They seem tough!

Saturday - Flashed another Wasp and tried a few more, I think they'll go. Great session really fun and felt good

Sunday - Did a couple of easier things at Owler Tor then got on Sisyphus. Last time I struggled to pull on, this time found it piss and then experimented with trying to dyno straight for the break (very nearly went) and going up with the right hand and then dyno-ing straight to the break. Couple of hours, got really reallllly close to it. V psyched to go back as think this could be my first 7A+ on grit!!!

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - Lattice edge campusing. Pull ups, back work.
Tue - shoulder static holds and farmer's. Heavy.
Wed - Lattice edge campusing, improving. Some tests on 15 mm edge. Pull ups.
Thu - TRX, back work.
Fri - 2x AM session, back work.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - board climbing, set and tried two problems. One is hard. Back work.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T. Evening board session - bit stiff after biggish Depot session on Sunday. Max hangs warmup was sub-par!
W.
T.
F. Evening board session - well rested and felt strong. Fired off a project boulder, but split a tip in the process. Ended session early.
S.
S.

[Fiend]

Next week STG: 1 indoor routes session maintaining good practise falls - yes, did well, was fun. A bit more conditioning / mobility / rehab stuff - no, did badly, was crap. Maybe try harder if less fatigued - only with routes but that's okay.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - tried above a pad, didn't happen. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - a reasonable amount, but could do with some reciprocation. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - yes. Look after injuries - not really, didn't worsen them but a bit creaky, gym x 1 - no, elbow rehab x 1 - yes, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - 1½, not enough.

M - Active rest. 6B+, 2 x 6C. Stretching session. Mildly sore throat.

T -  Active rest. 30 mins walk. A few easy moves. Mildly sore throat.

W - Indoor routes at Summit Up. F6b, 2 x F6b+, attempted F6c+, F6c+, 5 x F7a/+. Decent practise falls on all, could have been longer. Good session, tried hard on a variety of routes and felt good climbing. Mildly sore throat. Also generally achey elbows after including right arm golfer's elbow which hasn't been sore for 3 years.

T - Rest. Elbow rehab. Half stretching session. Throat and elbows better.

F - Leg day. 1.5 hours walking. Some easy moves. Throat fine.

S - Called the lime again. Short session working a promising and almost pleasant 7A. Couldn't do / properly try the crux as the crux crimp was a bit damp (after 8 hand moves to get to it). Will be a useful project. Elbows a bit creaky and achey. Left knee a bit creaky and achey. Bletch.

S - Recalled the grit. Short session working a frustrating and knacky 7A. Spent a lot of time lying on the pad with my hands in the air to get them into the blocks of ice required to try to hold the slopers. Won't be something I'll go back to. Nothing particularly creaky but a bit pissed off with climbing that's too hard for me.


Weak-ish week. It seems heeding the UKB advice of "train more smartly, do less fatiguing quarry cleaning, chill on the gym, take proper rest days" has indeed enabled me to claw back a few percent from the all-consuming Grand Decline, but then I've once again come up against the immovable barrier of weight + age/decrepitude. Frustrating. OTOH I had a decent wall session - partly inspired by unexpectedly seeing Ben Moon with a "work in progress" Spanish-style mo-hawk on the go there - and had a fair bit of go for it there. Maybe that's appropriate for the transition into routes season... Also weak in terms of stretching / rehab discipline. I really need to work harder on that.


Next week STG: MORE STRETCHING. And rehab if needed. Test session indoor bouldering / on board to worry about weakness.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 1, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

[duncan]

Deload and rehab. sore elbow week.

Fingerboard pick-ups, light weights for elbow rehab. x 4 sessions

Hip flexibility: sumo squats, pancake stretches, frog stretches. x 4 sessions

Shoulder conditioning: sideplanks, handstands, face-pulls. x 3 sessions.

Next week: ease back into climbing.

[Adam Lincoln]

Deload and rehab. sore elbow week.

Fingerboard pick-ups, light weights for elbow rehab. x 4 sessions

Hip flexibility: sumo squats, pancake stretches, frog stretches. x 4 sessions

Shoulder conditioning: sideplanks, handstands, face-pulls. x 3 sessions.

Next week: ease back into climbing.

Nice rest will do you good after Spain. Great to catchup today, lets make it a regular one.

[duncan]

Thanks Adam, likewise good to see you. Well done on the “8a”!

I aim get down to Weston more frequently this year and will definitely keep in touch. Good luck finding some dry rock in the next couple of days.