the shizzle > power club

Power Club 745 18 - 24 Mar 2024

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Nibile:
Power Club

Mon - Lattice edge campusing. Pull ups, back work.
Tue - shoulder static holds and farmer's. Heavy.
Wed - Lattice edge campusing, improving. Some tests on 15 mm edge. Pull ups.
Thu - TRX, back work.
Fri - 2x AM session, back work.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - board climbing, set and tried two problems. One is hard. Back work.

mr chaz:
Power Club:

M.
T. Evening board session - bit stiff after biggish Depot session on Sunday. Max hangs warmup was sub-par!
W.
T.
F. Evening board session - well rested and felt strong. Fired off a project boulder, but split a tip in the process. Ended session early.
S.
S.

Fiend:
Next week STG: 1 indoor routes session maintaining good practise falls - yes, did well, was fun. A bit more conditioning / mobility / rehab stuff - no, did badly, was crap. Maybe try harder if less fatigued - only with routes but that's okay.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - tried above a pad, didn't happen. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - a reasonable amount, but could do with some reciprocation. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - yes. Look after injuries - not really, didn't worsen them but a bit creaky, gym x 1 - no, elbow rehab x 1 - yes, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - 1½, not enough.

M - Active rest. 6B+, 2 x 6C. Stretching session. Mildly sore throat.

T -  Active rest. 30 mins walk. A few easy moves. Mildly sore throat.

W - Indoor routes at Summit Up. F6b, 2 x F6b+, attempted F6c+, F6c+, 5 x F7a/+. Decent practise falls on all, could have been longer. Good session, tried hard on a variety of routes and felt good climbing. Mildly sore throat. Also generally achey elbows after including right arm golfer's elbow which hasn't been sore for 3 years.

T - Rest. Elbow rehab. Half stretching session. Throat and elbows better.

F - Leg day. 1.5 hours walking. Some easy moves. Throat fine.

S - Called the lime again. Short session working a promising and almost pleasant 7A. Couldn't do / properly try the crux as the crux crimp was a bit damp (after 8 hand moves to get to it). Will be a useful project. Elbows a bit creaky and achey. Left knee a bit creaky and achey. Bletch.

S - Recalled the grit. Short session working a frustrating and knacky 7A. Spent a lot of time lying on the pad with my hands in the air to get them into the blocks of ice required to try to hold the slopers. Won't be something I'll go back to. Nothing particularly creaky but a bit pissed off with climbing that's too hard for me.


Weak-ish week. It seems heeding the UKB advice of "train more smartly, do less fatiguing quarry cleaning, chill on the gym, take proper rest days" has indeed enabled me to claw back a few percent from the all-consuming Grand Decline, but then I've once again come up against the immovable barrier of weight + age/decrepitude. Frustrating. OTOH I had a decent wall session - partly inspired by unexpectedly seeing Ben Moon with a "work in progress" Spanish-style mo-hawk on the go there - and had a fair bit of go for it there. Maybe that's appropriate for the transition into routes season... Also weak in terms of stretching / rehab discipline. I really need to work harder on that.


Next week STG: MORE STRETCHING. And rehab if needed. Test session indoor bouldering / on board to worry about weakness.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 1, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

duncan:
Deload and rehab. sore elbow week.

Fingerboard pick-ups, light weights for elbow rehab. x 4 sessions

Hip flexibility: sumo squats, pancake stretches, frog stretches. x 4 sessions

Shoulder conditioning: sideplanks, handstands, face-pulls. x 3 sessions.

Next week: ease back into climbing.

Adam Lincoln:

--- Quote from: duncan on March 26, 2024, 07:19:41 pm ---Deload and rehab. sore elbow week.

Fingerboard pick-ups, light weights for elbow rehab. x 4 sessions

Hip flexibility: sumo squats, pancake stretches, frog stretches. x 4 sessions

Shoulder conditioning: sideplanks, handstands, face-pulls. x 3 sessions.

Next week: ease back into climbing.

--- End quote ---

Nice rest will do you good after Spain. Great to catchup today, lets make it a regular one.

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