[dave]

you're so beautiful when you're sarcastic Si. :kiss:

[Pantontino]

Actually, I'm half serious. If the traverse issue was dealt with and we could establish a reliable range of sub 7a benchmarks I would have no objection to using Font grades.

The only issue is a temporary period of confusion amongst mainstream guide buyers who have gotten used to the V grades.

If the next Yorkshire guide (which badly needs updating) switched to Font grades, then I reckon all other UK guides would follow suit.

[dave]

thing is, you're the only person who i've ever heard really take this traverse grade thing as an issue! :wink:  everyone else quite rightly just ignores it as some kinda ridiculous local folly/quirk, like yorkshire P-grades or County B-grades. Thats not a dig at you Si, just saying its not worth worrying about. :fluffle:

I mean for a start no-one really (except gaskins) goes to font to do traverses. I've never even thought about traverse grades as its a local thing to font and to be honest makes jack all sense, and from what i can tell it only exists in font anyway, i doublt anyone in europe uses them. I think they were made up by locals who were insecure that they didnt do any sport climbin anymore but wanted to show everyone they had some stamina and made up a new gay scale to kinda give it importance! i mean all jerry's traverse things in the peak have ended up with real font grades even though we went to font loads, so that shoudl speak volumes on how most people just ignore traverse grades, as it sounds a lot in font are doing anyway.

In short, its not an issue.

[c.j.d.]

If I could conjour up a picture of a couple of cats. I would.  Instead, using your imagination, put a furry fight at midnight noise on a normal cats miaw, to give more of a MIAAAAW SCREECH type thing...

[dave]

Oooh get her.

[DrWong]

Someone's gotta pull this thread back outa the clutches of the grade-obsessed...

:up: Nice work Stu :up: Looking forward to picking up a copy b4 my next trip HKside!

[Bonjoy]

some guy on cocktalk wrote:

.....with a manc uni law student IP address. Mmmm who could that be :chin stroke: :wink:

[dave]

yeah, i mean there must be hundreds of people on manc uni law courses who are wirting peak guides right?

[Pantontino]

I don't know what you mean Chris, I'm too hungover to be confrontational today. Haven't I just conceded that Font grades could work for the whole of the UK.

I have probably argued in the past that V grades suit power problems and Font in turn suits faggy slab stuff, but in reality either works as a linear system. Of course a N Wales V9/7c is likely be different in character to a Peak V9/7c - but then, so what, the difficulty will be approximately the same.

I really think it all hangs on the Yorkshire guide, and thus the potential author of such a guide. Is there a version of Rupert (i.e. super knowledgeable trainspotting type) operating in Yorkshire these days? What about Jon Pearson - is he up for producing a printed guide? presumably at the moment he would use V grades, but perhaps once the impact of Rupert's guide is felt, would he change his mind?

(As for traverses/long problems - okay, I admit it, I'm a lapsed sport climber, and I do like getting pumped.)

[dave]

Of course a N Wales V9/7c is likely be different in character to a Peak V9/7c - but then, so what, the difficulty will be approximately the same.

2rite

[cofe]

and I do like getting pumped.)

<sn**ger> :wink:

[Big Frank]

I really think it all hangs on the Yorkshire guide, and thus the potential author of such a guide. Is there a version of Rupert (i.e. super knowledgeable trainspotting type) operating in Yorkshire these days? What about Jon Pearson - is he up for producing a printed guide? presumably at the moment he would use V grades, but perhaps once the impact of Rupert's guide is felt, would he change his mind?

Has he the time is the real question. It would be a massive job if you consider all the venues on his site compared with the current guide.

[rowena]

Anyway, all I wanna say is that it looks great    looking forward to hopefully hauling ass over next autumn for some HKPeeeee style bouldering!

[hongkongstuey]

But should it say "described briefly at the back of the book" or "described briefly in the back of the book" ??)

Bugger - indeed it should - just goes to show that no matter how many times it gets proof read - by myself and others - there's always one or two things that slip through the net.

Hell, anyway its on Page 13 so i guess i can live with a little bad luck on that page...

[Ru]

Hello y'all

I didn't do the post on Rocktalk, but I have now. I don't know who did the other post, suffice to say that there are at least 3 post grad law courses in manchester, 3 undergrad ones, and lots of non law people that use the law facilities, them being just next to the main library. There's at least 4 boulderers on my course including Dave Buchanan and Andy Higginson, and that's just in my year, but I don't think it was either of them.

Like I said on the rocktalk post, I'm live and let live on the V grade issue, I just hope that using font grades doesn't compromise sales at all. the only reason I used them is that I'm not too familiar with V grades, never having been to the states, but having been to font a lot.

[c.j.d.]

Ru, I'm, sure all will be fine!  Basically, inmy humble opinion, certain grades suit certain problem.  Sometimes a font grade will stick, other times a V grade.  You could give a traverse V7, but usually, you'll try and convert it in your head to a sport grade (7c?), like wise with various other problems, some work bette rusoing certain systems- way of the world - ok here come s my boss Bye!

[Bonjoy]

Soz Ru, just being mischeivous.
 Accuracy and consistency are far more important than which system is used, in both respects the new book is light years ahead of it predecessor.

[hongkongstuey]

I just hope that using font grades doesn't compromise sales at all. the only reason I used them is that I'm not too familiar with V grades, never having been to the states, but having been to font a lot.

Ru

I wouldn't worry about it - it'll sell like nobodies business and, think of it like this, at the same time you'll be giving people an education in Font grades.

At the end of the day its your guide so i wouldn't pay too much heed to what others think - there'll always be good and bad comments made no matter how perfect you make it.

looking forward to seeing how the end product comes out - and being eductaed in font grades..........

Stu

[account_inactive]

Grades smades.  As Love Joy said it doesn't matter one jot which grading system you use as long as they are accurate.  







.................and the Terrace gets 7c;)

[hongkongstuey]

planetfear review of HK Bouldering guide

http://www.planetfear.com/review_detail.asp?r_id=503

[Fiend]

Bit of a brief one but the picture of the guide inside says it all really.

I think they've got a good point about providing traveller's information. Not every is lucky enough for the full HKS hotel service =).

BTW, where can one purchase said guide?

[fatboySlimfast]

The boys at Beta climbing designs have got some I do believe(well i know cos i was looking at one yesterday)
Looks good stu, nice effort

[hongkongstuey]

I think they've got a good point about providing traveller's information. Not every is lucky enough for the full HKS hotel service =).

i thought about including a page on this but didn't bother for two reason:

1 - i only printed 300 copies all of which i originally intended to shift locally (international distribution seemed to much of a ball ache being as i'm most definately a one man band - it only through chance that several copies winged there way to the beta boys). Being as locals are, by definition, already living here there seemed no point. As the guide would only be on sale in HK, anyone else buying it would also be in town already....

2 - buy a lonely planet, it'll be more up to date and comprehensive than anything i can sling in one page - plus i have absolutely no idea about back packing in HK. Everyone i know who visits just sleeps on my floor!

P.S. The guide for routes, which i've shifted my efforts over to now, will have a page or two on these subjects as i'm looking to print more and try and shift them globally - somehow

[Fiend]

Had a look at this in the Edge today, very nice, really photo-tastic although most of them have appeared in the Quality Bouldering Pics thread at some point =).

The bouldering looks great there, and the guide with it's plethora of topos, does a really good job of highlighting that - pretty much every page has some topo that made me go "damn, that looks cool". Shows a good variety in rock and locations, too (though I didn't check the walk-ins =)).

[hongkongstuey]

cheers Fiend, glad you liked it

purely out of interest - what are they charging for a copy in the UK??