the shizzle > diet, training and injuries

Full tear rotator cuff.

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Andy W:
Has anyone any experience of this. I knew something was wrong, carried on regardless, climbing ok albeit with some discomfort and pain on certain moves. Anyhow got a diagnosis today of an 11mm x 6 mm full tear of my supraspinatus tendon. Online reading seems a bit bit gloomy, suggesting it won’t repair, even with physio, surgery sounds like recovery is long and not guaranteed. Anyone offer me any glimmer of hope. It’s day one and my wife is sick of my self analysis already 😕

old cheese:
Hey Andy. What were your symptoms?

webbo:

--- Quote from: Andy W on March 22, 2024, 08:14:11 pm ---Has anyone any experience of this. I knew something was wrong, carried on regardless, climbing ok albeit with some discomfort and pain on certain moves. Anyhow got a diagnosis today of an 11mm x 6 mm full tear of my supraspinatus tendon. Online reading seems a bit bit gloomy, suggesting it won’t repair, even with physio, surgery sounds like recovery is long and not guaranteed. Anyone offer me any glimmer of hope. It’s day one and my wife is sick of my self analysis already 😕

--- End quote ---
I had a 21mm tear fixed 6 years ago which I gather is huge as when I saw the consultant who operated 2 weeks ago about my other shoulder. His words were “ you were the one with huge tear” I also had other tears in the other tendons plus a bone spur.
It was 6 weeks in a sling, then rehab very gentle at first but building up to weights then finger boarding. I had the op in March and climbing in again in August.
I might have to have my other shoulder done as I’ve a couple of small tears, osteoarthritis and my bicep tendon is out of place, this is from the ultrasound scan I had yesterday. I now need to go back and see the consultant to see what can be done.
I don’t where you are based but I’m seeing Simon Boyle in York, he also works in Leeds and Harrogate. Len Funk in Manchester is highly recommended by lots of people.

ferret:
I had a partial tear, slap tear and bone spurs in both shoulders. Non surgical methods proved ineffective. Eventually got surgery full recovery.
5 weeks of immobilization and a month of light use with physio following surgery would recommend it

Oldmanmatt:
I tore mine, with complete separation, right shoulder, around six years ago now. No surgical intervention as I was advised it was more likely to exacerbate and prolong recovery.
Obviously it has never repaired itself. However, I function quite well. I have bouts if pain, usually triggered by some innocuous movement, like pointing at something. Feels like something “clicks” (twangs, maybe) then I’ll have pain for a couple of days. Can be severe. Rarely has exercise or climbing triggered it, where it has, it’s been after a slip or sudden loading.
With the physio at the time and since,  I started to develop and maintain a very strong shoulder, keeping the muscles around the damage sufficiently strong to take the load off in all but the most specific positions. Mostly callisthenics, bar work and rings, distally unstable where possible.
Like the arthritis in my foot, I class it as minor disability and because it makes me nervous to pull in certain positions, it has drastically affected my climbing. Possibly I should have considered surgery, however getting back to work (which was climbing at the time) asap, seemed the right route.
Fucking ridiculous that I can hold an Iron Cross in the rings, but can end up almost in tears after reaching for a pen on my desk.

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