the shizzle > power club

Power Club 744 11 - 17 Mar 2024

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Duma:
Duncan, good trip, always impressed with a solo mission.
Fiend, loool, and also sounds like a good week! Getting the stretching and rehab sessions in seems to be working well for you.
Wellsy, always impressed with your attitude and psyche to work weaknesses. Enjoy your week off!
Fultonius, jeez I'm glad I don't have to deal with the ego crush of Slovene grades! Hope the shoulder turns out to be minor.

M - eve, TCA, 90 min. Psyche still low and not much to go at now, and didn't feel like I had the mental try hard to get much from the moonboard or woody. Repeated a black and worked some moves on a few blues, but not a very productive session.
T - eve, TCA, 90 min. Much better attitude, helped by seeing mates who've been away for a while. Still not hugely inspired physically though. Repeated a few things and desultory goes at some moves on projects.
W -
T - eve, TCA, 120 min. Better psyche and physical. Mostly repeating blacks, whites and blues, but bit of progress on a blue project too.
F -
S - Uphill, chanced it on dodgy forecast. Cold and threatened rain but held off until after lunch. Forgettable 6b and 6a+ to warm up, decent attempted OS on Living Dead 7b, missed a decent crimp by the final clip and came off the last move before jugs. Ok next go but still had to try hard with fingers numbing out. Then "flash" go on Anastasis 7b+ (though I've done Proper Job,  the 7a it starts up, before). Good beta and ticks from Ant, though had to improvise some foot sequences to make up for my relative lack of height. Redlining when I slapped and caught the finishing jug with the last of my beans, very satisfying. Rain then stopped play, but a good day had already been had.
S - aft, TCA, 120 min. Everything in the place up to and including oranges. 170 ish problems 3 to 6Cish. 7 falls. Feet hurt a lot by the end.

71.5 kg.

monkoffunk:
M - Gym am. Weighted pulls ups. Most at 15, 3 reps at 25kg. Dumbbell bench, etc.
T - Yoga.
W - Gym. Deadlifts up to 120kg, etc. I read somewhere 1.5-2xBW was a reasonable target for climbers.
T - Yoga
F - Portland after work. Pastoral finally. Super glue for the tips and a bit of punt at the top, but finally a 7 at New Cuttings. My anti style crag but I’ve spent an awful lot of time there. Next time something a bit steeper!
S - Yoga
S - Yoga

Aussiegav:
Rehab club
Great reading peoples posts about trips and positive takeaways. I’m Desperate to get away somewhere for some climbing. Easy, hard, I don’t care.

Monday -
Officially returned to work. Shirking from home on the keyboard.
Had physio appointment at the hospital. Focusing on mobilising the joint, it’s so tight from years if not being able to move to those areas.
Continued with rehabbing throughout the day.
Doing incline pushups every day this week. Very hard.

Edge pick ups on 20mm lattice edge
6lifts each hand.
10kg half crimp and full crimp. Right hand
20kg half crimp and full crimp. Left hand



Tuesday
Usual rehab during the day. Pleased with progress.
Virgin gym in the evening
5min of hand cycling to warm up the elbow and full range of movement
Bench press managed a 5kg increase. Elbow seas less shaky
Hammer curls. Focused squeezing on both end of the movement.
Single dumbbell shoulder press using gravity to help with stretching and strengthening at the extreme end of flexion.
Pistol squats.

Wednesday
Elbow rehab throughout the day.
Edge pick ups.
40min peloton ride. Elbow feels fine for the duration.

Thursday
Rehab throughout the day

Friday
Virgin in the evening. Managed to do knee push ups. 2sets of 5. These were very hard.
Did the same as Tuesday. Felt better.

Saturday
Elbow rehab sessions.

Finger edge pick ups. Pain free. Managed 20kg half crimp and full crimp. 6 in half crimp. 6 in full crimp.


Sunday
Elbow rehab throughout the day. Virgin Gym. Strength training in the morning.
Same session as Friday.
Plus able to do 2 sets of 4 shrugs hanging from a bar. No chance of doing a single arm hang yet.

40min peloton ride

mr chaz:
Missed a couple of non eventful weeks, little bit of training interspersed with doses of illness.

M.
T. Evening board session - usual fodder. Max hang warmup, then bouldering on the woodie. Been cruising at roughly the same sort of low volume hi intensity for a while, want to change this up a bit so focussed more on volume.
W.
T.  :sick:
F.
S.
S. Day pass, but everywhere fuckin sodden. Went to Bham Depot, got off to a slow start but was climbing pretty well by the end of my session. Generally attempting to flash purples with limited success and focus on moving well. Message to Depot Bham users BRUSH YOUR F*CKIN HOLDS  :chair:

shark:
Nice one Duncan. Spring is in the air and High Tor awaits!

M

T. Foundry routes with Edward. Included 3 attempts at a 6c+! 🙃 (7a+/b?) on the steep part of the main wall.

W. Eve Seb’s talk at Outside went down a treat and we raised an amazing £2300 for the Peak Bolt Fund!

T. Foundry Hoped to do lead but Edward had to cry off. Wave for first time in ages So good. Experience marred by Barrows climbing on it with a kneepad. Did the fluoro yellow right of centre on steep bit. Worked pink next to it.

F Foundry . Autobelay then Wave. Bit tired trying the pink again. Ended up reworking a better foot sequence but too tired to send

S. Systems board. Did really well on benchmarks. Pinch/Gaston’s, worked thru throw variations and did hardest one and also almost did mirror crusher crimp problems back to back except for final pull to incut edge. Few goes at old Oak PE circuit but faded on throw. Tried a 20/10 but mistakenly timed 3 secs per move rather than 2 and didnt get very far.

S

Nice to be reminded how good the Wave is so won’t dread being forced indoors by the weather. Gradually starting to build up a bit of volume and hopefully endurance

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