the shizzle > diet, training and injuries
How to become a braver boulderer (aka get Wellsy up Crescent Arete)
lagerstarfish:
I'd be happy to carry/add three pads to the UKB sea of foam for Wellsy if he decides that is what he would like.
Since smashing my ankle into lots of pieces, I occasionally struggle with fear when bouldering more than a couple of moves up. I do still really enjoy being high up on easy ground or good holds or just when I am climbing well.
Being comfortable with the distance off the deck can feel really nice. If you don't have a lot of experience of that sensation, seek it out. It will probably be doing really easy stuff at first, but that nice feeling becomes reward and motivation once you find it.
Grades, lines, numbers, excitement, ego and all that are good in their own way, but the calm sub-thrill of being comfortable high up has less of a comedown and fewer side effects.
Edit - once you find something high that you like doing, do it lots of times and take time to reflect on the various physical and mental sensations. This might not necessarily make you climb harder, but it will help you enjoy your time more
stone:
I'm a bit confused, my impression was that Wellsy's aspiration was to climb on classic 7B/+s with the same lack of inhibition as on a kilter board. I took that to mean stuff like Old King Cascade, Famous Grouse, Ram Air, Monochrome etc.
I'm not even sure whether this advice people are giving to wander around in the no fall zone has any view towards the original aim. It sounds as though it is straying into saying doing that is a nicer way to spend one's days than on try-hard bouldering. That is fair enough but it might as well be saying the same for soloing the N face of the Eiger, or going fell running, or golf, or gastronomy or whatever.
lagerstarfish:
--- Quote from: stone on March 24, 2024, 07:31:08 am ---I'm a bit confused, my impression was that Wellsy's aspiration was to climb on classic 7B/+s with the same lack of inhibition as on a kilter board. I took that to mean stuff like Old King Cascade, Famous Grouse, Ram Air, Monochrome etc.
I'm not even sure whether this advice people are giving to wander around in the no fall zone has any view towards the original aim. It sounds as though it is straying into saying doing that is a nicer way to spend one's days than on try-hard bouldering. That is fair enough but it might as well be saying the same for soloing the N face of the Eiger, or going fell running, or golf, or gastronomy or whatever.
--- End quote ---
Is it not about getting up Crescent Arete as mentioned in the title?
stone:
--- Quote from: lagerstarfish on March 24, 2024, 08:14:33 am ---Is it not about getting up Crescent Arete as mentioned in the title?
--- End quote ---
I think Cresent Arete was Fiend's idea. Wellsy was saying:
--- Quote from: Wellsy on March 15, 2024, 01:43:09 pm ---I'm definitely open to getting out of my comfort zone and plan to do so this year but honestly I feel like at the moment something like that would be really stressful and make me just want to walk away more, not less!
Doing Crescent Arete isn't something I particularly desire but doing less high/sketch things but potentially more high than I am now with an eye towards performing better would be what I want. I could happily go my entire life never getting on, say, Pebble Arete but I'd build towards it if it meant getting to do things I do actually want to do, like T-Crack and so on.
--- End quote ---
Fiend:
Actually CA was from the other thread, and chatting with Wellsy on FB. This thread is supposed to be a general one, hence posting it here rather than via messenger, but CA is maybe a good example of extrapolating bravery (into the "won't fall, but best don't fall" category, other forms of highballing are available).
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