Liamhutch89
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2018
- Messages
- 1,262
Wellsy said:I could have the strongest fingers in the world, and I'll probably never ever do crescent arete, I'm just too scared of heights.
You should make Crescent Arete one of your short to mid term goals. You CAN do it and it will bring on your climbing more than anything in the weight/fingerboard room could at this stage. I'd even suggest finding a few slightly more difficult highballs to do afterwards. Upon returning to normal height boulders, you should move a lot more freely once you're a couple of moves off the ground. Just be safe and use plenty of pads/spotters.
T_B said:David Mason has done more fingerboarding than most (according to his recent Careless Torque podcast) and seemed to be suggesting that finger strength is 95% genetic. Might be anecdotal but presumably he’s basing that view on the experience of having coached a lot of climbers. My takeaway was that deadhanging might not be a good use of my time as someone with ‘weakish’ fingers and 35 years training history.
I'm keen to listen to this. I spent 5 years doing typical max hang and repeater blocks and made modest progress for the first year or two then very little progress for a few years. I thought i'd reached my 'genetic potential'. However, over the last year I haven't done any traditional hangs, but using a Tindeq and specific on-the-wall-training, I've made more finger strength gains than I did in the previous 4 years combined. I still have less finger strength than some of my mates who have never touched a fingerboard, so it's abundantly clear that there's a huge genetic component to finger strength, but 95% is a bold statement!