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Approximating Lattice’s Finger Strength Dataset

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peterbeal:
Overdue reverse engineering of Lattice?

https://wmgclimbing.wordpress.com/2024/03/10/approximating-lattices-finger-strength-data-set/

"The Final Finger-Strength Chart
To summarize: from V14 to V17 there are 4% increases in the one-arm pull data from Lattice. There are 6% increases for two-arm hangs in the V4-V11 range according to the Finger Strength Vs Climbing Ability video. I am assuming a 5% increase per grade from V11-V14.

Putting it all together, we get the following chart:

V4 — 49%
V5 — 55%
V6 — 61%
V7 — 67%
V8 — 73%
V9 — 79%
V10 — 85%
V11 — 91%
V12 — 96%
V13 — 101%
V14 — 106%
V15 — 110%
V16 — 114%
V17 — 118%

Note: These numbers represent the maximum value (percentage of body weight) achieved in a one-arm pull on a 20mm edge within 7-10 seconds, which is the protocol discussed in the Finger Strength Vs Climbing Ability video (7 seconds) and Emil’s and Stefano’s videos (10s). In my experience, the maximum peak happens in the first 3-5 seconds (assuming one ramps up effort slowly), so in my opinion a shorter test might be totally fine: it is the peak force we are interested in measuring.

Once again I’ll mention that these numbers are pulled from male climbers because that was the data available."

teestub:

--- Quote from: peterbeal on March 14, 2024, 07:49:27 pm ---
In my experience, the maximum peak happens in the first 3-5 seconds (assuming one ramps up effort slowly), so in my opinion a shorter test might be totally fine: it is the peak force we are interested in measuring.


--- End quote ---

Not sure about this bit, the test is measuring force over a set time, not peak force right? There’s a substantial difference in what I can hang for 5 secs vs 10!

Wellsy:
Always nice to know you should be able to climb about 7C+

Mostly_Inanimate_Beans:
Always nice to know that you apparently can't climb 6B

Fiend:
Always nice to know you have no idea what these measurements mean, have never done a Lattice test, nor knowingly chased a grade this millenium.

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