[jwi]

Thinking of going to Andalusia (or possibly Mallorca) for some dry tufas for eastern. Flying to Malaga probably.

I know nothing about climbing in either. Looking for routes to onsight between 7a and 7c+ (very very soft 8as could be interesting as well).

Areas? Topos? what is the low-down?

[Steve Crowe]

I find it hard to believe that you haven’t been to El Chorro?

Here’s a starter list on the other channel
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/el_chorro_dreams_7a_and_above-1225

[jwi]

I find it hard to believe that you haven’t been to El Chorro?

It's far from France! 13 hours driving from Toulouse! Even from Barcelona it is uncomfortably far in a car. I try to avoid flying as far as I can...

[SA Chris]

Could you do it by train if you don't want to fly or drive? Fast train to Malaga, local to El Chorro? It's been a long time since i used them, but Spanish trains were reasonably cheap and reliable. You can access a lot of crags from El Chorro on foot 

[CrimpyMcCrimpface]

I've done the Malaga airport to Chorro train before, it was quite easy from what I recall just had to pick the right train as they don't all stop in Chorro. Though if you rent a car you could also access Archidona cave in an hour and Desplomandia in about 20mins. Desplomandia and Makinodromo(walkable) probably have the highest concentration of routes with tufas and are both intimidatingly high(for me)

Some recommendations in addition to the ukc list..
Desplo
Madre Salvaje, Fran Sin natra, Liron Careto
Maki
Los Siete Larrys, Trainspottng - it's extension is 8a
Escalera Arabe
Rock the Kashbah, Calvo Potrun
Las Encantadas
Kit Grimpe (match on a hideous bolt-on hold while looking down at 30m of air)

I've also been to Mallorca and liked Chorro more. Less routes in Chorro but enjoyed them more.

[spidermonkey09]

Chorro likely to be really, really hot at easter. Lots of south facing crags. I'm sure you'd love Makinodromo jwi but it will be warm as from memory the crag faces SE. Might be scope for decent evening sessions, but then you're walking back in the dark.

Don't know if you've been but I would give some thought to going to Costa Blanca and climbing at sella wildside. Shady, loads of tufa routes from 7a - 8c. I could happily spend a two week trip there and not get bored.

[stone]

One of my two only ever sport climbing holidays was a long weekend to El Chorro. The person I went with had been before and was in charge. We climbed at Desplomandia which was a bit of a drive away. It was pleasantly cool and shady (in November). We both did Madre Salvaje and Liron Careto and I concur with CrimpyMcCrimpface's recommendations of those but they weren't really tufa climbing.

[blaciqui]

I'm from Andalucia. Happy to help in anything I can.

Easter might be too hot so need to chose wisely (this year easter is pretty early in the year so it can be not too warm yet, but we just had a wet/cold spell and the forecast looks pretty warm for the next 2 weeks), not plenty of north facing crags and the ones in El Chorro (Desplomilandia and El Pozo de la Mona) get busy pretty quickly.

Also, El Chorro lately is a little bit disgusting with the amount of people but in the grades you are looking to climb maybe it will ok. Somebody linked the ukc recommendation for El Chorro, plenty in there to cover el chorro.

Take a look at places like Cañete la Real, Tajo de los Rojos in Teba, Tajo Colorao in Turón, Serrato, Archidona, Villanueva de la Concepcion. These crags have all sort of orientations, and some of them can be climbable in the sun when warm but it's hard to know without knowing the forecast. All those crags are in Malaga province and roughly less than an hour driving from el Chorro. Granada was covered in another post by somebody else, cannot remember the name.

I think all depends how many days you go, if you will have car, etc.

For malaga area this is the go-to guidebook. https://www.libreriadesnivel.com/libros/escalada-en-malaga-sur/9788412394757/ If you are going to buy take care to buy the 2023 edition. there is a previous one from 2021. The quality is so-so but more than enough to help you planning your trip.

[abarro81]

Rosario would be worth a visit for a day - it has a really good 7c up the middle of the crag and a couple of other things (but is not very good below 7c)

Muela (over further West, near Ronda) is a good wall at high 7s - I can send you a topo for it if you want?

We found Antequera a nice place to stay if you want to be able to drive to lots of areas for day trips (Muela, Desplomilandia, Rosario, Archidona etc)... but you will have to drive every day - if you want to stay one place and climb with only a short drive or a walk it's not a good option.

[Teaboy]

My climbing beta will be many years out of date but I would say if this is a one off trip to the area you should make an effort to visit the Alhambra palace.

[mrjonathanr]

Good shout Teaboy 

Spoiler: it’s not a palace, it’s a series of palaces and gardens forming a hilltop citadel. No better way to help understand the Moorish heritage of Spain.

[seankenny]

The Alhambra has to be a contender for one of the world’s most beautiful buildings. A masterpiece of Islamic architecture.

[jwi]

Thanks all!

We are currently discussing if we should go to Andalusia, Mallorca or Sella. Sella has the advantage of being at driving distance from BCN. One of the main reasons for going to Andalusia is to see some of the sights, so don't worry Alhambra will surely be visited if we go!

[SA Chris]

If you choose it, Mallorca is a big island, with not a lot of great roads, so worth carefully choosing the crags you want to prioritise and pick accommodation accordingly. I know it sounds obvious, but we were used to roads on Canary Islands (dead straight and dead quiet) and ended up in the car a lot more than we intended to be when we went.

[CrimpyMcCrimpface]

Oh, if you do go to Sella then try to visit Altea en route (but not Altea la Vella). Very attractive little seaside/hilly village with some excellent restaurants, heavily pedestrianised and easy to stroll around. I stayed there in 2017 and it was thoroughly enchanting. Nearby, Shogun 7b+ at Castellet de Calp involves some Tufa pulling and is a total romp with a 'typewriter' move as the crux.
 
Castell de Guadalest is a very scenic family visit too with great views. Additionally the crag beneath it has some varied flowstone/tufa routes though all 6s and below. Charming relaxed day activity.

Also agree with what Chris said about Mallorca

[Steve Crowe]

Thanks all!

We are currently discussing if we should go to Andalusia, Mallorca or Sella. Sella has the advantage of being at driving distance from BCN. One of the main reasons for going to Andalusia is to see some of the sights, so don't worry Alhambra will surely be visited if we go!

El Torcal de Antequera is a really special location that is justifiably popular with tourists. There is climbing on the limestone towers too.

[jwi]

Thanks everyone,

Considering various long-term weather forecasts etc we decided to go to Costa Blanca/Sella instead. What guidebook should I get? The local guidebook seems very out of print. Only the clever germans have it with their 2x markup price...

[Steve Crowe]

Costa Blanca climbs by
Roberto Lopez isn’t cheap but it’s comprehensive published in 2020

[jwi]

Costa Blanca climbs by
Roberto Lopez isn’t cheap but it’s comprehensive published in 2020

Seems out of print. None of the online stores seems to have it at least.

[CrimpyMcCrimpface]

If you want I have pdf topos that I can send you for: Castell de Castells, Castellet de Calp, Pinos, L’Ocaive, Pego,Olta Massif—Calpe, and Altea Col. They're from 2007 but are at least photographic, dm if you're interested and I'll send them. El Castellet at Val de Guadar (closer to Sella than the other crags mentioned) is roadside and has a sign that is a topo. Though its not really a great crag but it does have lower grades.

[spidermonkey09]

 I have the Costa Blanca Rockfax jwi. That's been fine for the trips I've had. Happy to send you some photos of wildside etc if you PM me your number.

[Fultonius]

Reviving this one. We're off to Andalucia to stay at with friends for few days (near Torre Del Mar) and then have 4 days to go climbing. Thinking of staying to Antequera? Other option is save some money and just stay with them - bit of a trek to El Chorro, but there some more local stuff (Villanueva / Torcal etc.)

[blaciqui]

Hi! Antequera is a great place and a lovely town!

I think it all depends on what time of the year you go and where you would like to climb.

El Chorro is a bit out of the way from Antequera. Don't get me wrong, ok a straight line it’s not that far, but the road is quite poor for going back and forth four days in a row.

I would definitely recommend Villanueva de la Concepción. It has many routes with different orientations and is only 30 minutes from Antequera by motorway. You also have smaller places like Teba, Cañete, Cuevas de San Marcos, Archidona, and Loja. All within 45 minutes with decent/good roads. (Some of these places are sun traps)

I know El Chorro is the famous place in the area, so if you want to go there, I would suggest staying in Álora or somewhere nearby, or even in Torre del Mar (the journey is definitely longer, but the road is better).


Forgot to say that el torcal is really close to Antequera but not the typical Spanish limestone destination although is great and it’s in the rockfax guide of el chorro

[Fultonius]

Amazing, thanks for the info. I've been to EL Chorro twice, so not super bothered - we might go nd doone of the longer multipitch routes for variety. Keen to explore the others. We might end up staying with our friends for a few more days as the drive to Torcal and Villanueva from theirs is about the same as form Antequera.

It's mid Novemeber we're going.

[blaciqui]

November is great. Depending on the day it can be too warm but both Villanueva de la Concepción and El Torcal are in altitude so you'll be fine! Enjoy!