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Sport climbing in Andalusia

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spidermonkey09:
Chorro likely to be really, really hot at easter. Lots of south facing crags. I'm sure you'd love Makinodromo jwi but it will be warm as from memory the crag faces SE. Might be scope for decent evening sessions, but then you're walking back in the dark.

Don't know if you've been but I would give some thought to going to Costa Blanca and climbing at sella wildside. Shady, loads of tufa routes from 7a - 8c. I could happily spend a two week trip there and not get bored.

stone:
One of my two only ever sport climbing holidays was a long weekend to El Chorro. The person I went with had been before and was in charge. We climbed at Desplomandia which was a bit of a drive away. It was pleasantly cool and shady (in November). We both did Madre Salvaje and Liron Careto and I concur with CrimpyMcCrimpface's recommendations of those but they weren't really tufa climbing.

blaciqui:
I'm from Andalucia. Happy to help in anything I can.

Easter might be too hot so need to chose wisely (this year easter is pretty early in the year so it can be not too warm yet, but we just had a wet/cold spell and the forecast looks pretty warm for the next 2 weeks), not plenty of north facing crags and the ones in El Chorro (Desplomilandia and El Pozo de la Mona) get busy pretty quickly.

Also, El Chorro lately is a little bit disgusting with the amount of people but in the grades you are looking to climb maybe it will ok. Somebody linked the ukc recommendation for El Chorro, plenty in there to cover el chorro.

Take a look at places like Cañete la Real, Tajo de los Rojos in Teba, Tajo Colorao in Turón, Serrato, Archidona, Villanueva de la Concepcion. These crags have all sort of orientations, and some of them can be climbable in the sun when warm but it's hard to know without knowing the forecast. All those crags are in Malaga province and roughly less than an hour driving from el Chorro. Granada was covered in another post by somebody else, cannot remember the name.

I think all depends how many days you go, if you will have car, etc.

For malaga area this is the go-to guidebook. https://www.libreriadesnivel.com/libros/escalada-en-malaga-sur/9788412394757/ If you are going to buy take care to buy the 2023 edition. there is a previous one from 2021. The quality is so-so but more than enough to help you planning your trip.

abarro81:
Rosario would be worth a visit for a day - it has a really good 7c up the middle of the crag and a couple of other things (but is not very good below 7c)

Muela (over further West, near Ronda) is a good wall at high 7s - I can send you a topo for it if you want?

We found Antequera a nice place to stay if you want to be able to drive to lots of areas for day trips (Muela, Desplomilandia, Rosario, Archidona etc)... but you will have to drive every day - if you want to stay one place and climb with only a short drive or a walk it's not a good option.

Teaboy:
My climbing beta will be many years out of date but I would say if this is a one off trip to the area you should make an effort to visit the Alhambra palace.

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