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Sport climbing in Andalusia

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jwi:
Thinking of going to Andalusia (or possibly Mallorca) for some dry tufas for eastern. Flying to Malaga probably.

I know nothing about climbing in either. Looking for routes to onsight between 7a and 7c+ (very very soft 8as could be interesting as well).

Areas? Topos? what is the low-down?

Steve Crowe:
I find it hard to believe that you haven’t been to El Chorro?

Here’s a starter list on the other channel
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/el_chorro_dreams_7a_and_above-1225

jwi:

--- Quote from: Steve Crowe on March 11, 2024, 11:11:44 am ---I find it hard to believe that you haven’t been to El Chorro?

--- End quote ---

It's far from France! 13 hours driving from Toulouse! Even from Barcelona it is uncomfortably far in a car. I try to avoid flying as far as I can...

SA Chris:
Could you do it by train if you don't want to fly or drive? Fast train to Malaga, local to El Chorro? It's been a long time since i used them, but Spanish trains were reasonably cheap and reliable. You can access a lot of crags from El Chorro on foot 

CrimpyMcCrimpface:
I've done the Malaga airport to Chorro train before, it was quite easy from what I recall just had to pick the right train as they don't all stop in Chorro. Though if you rent a car you could also access Archidona cave in an hour and Desplomandia in about 20mins. Desplomandia and Makinodromo(walkable) probably have the highest concentration of routes with tufas and are both intimidatingly high(for me)

Some recommendations in addition to the ukc list..
Desplo
Madre Salvaje, Fran Sin natra, Liron Careto
Maki
Los Siete Larrys, Trainspottng - it's extension is 8a
Escalera Arabe
Rock the Kashbah, Calvo Potrun
Las Encantadas
Kit Grimpe (match on a hideous bolt-on hold while looking down at 30m of air)

I've also been to Mallorca and liked Chorro more. Less routes in Chorro but enjoyed them more.

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