the shizzle > diet, training and injuries
Stefano Ghisolfi video on Endurance training
mr chaz:
--- Quote from: jwi on March 06, 2024, 10:16:27 am --- But also, Ghisolfi is pretty shit at onsighting on rock
--- End quote ---
yay, something in common!
jwi:
--- Quote from: Liamhutch89 on March 06, 2024, 10:29:02 am ---I don't know very much about endurance training but looking at what elite professional climbers do is usually not helpful. They're most likely genetic freaks who can get away with enough volume at high intensity to get the work capacity benefits. Mortals would break with a equivalent level of volume and intensity so very low intensity climbing is done at high volume instead?
--- End quote ---
I suspect Ghisolfi has already payed his dues when it comes to endurance climbing over the years.
Obviously training has to be individualised, this is the law.
Fultonius:
--- Quote from: jwi on March 06, 2024, 10:39:19 am ---
--- Quote from: Liamhutch89 on March 06, 2024, 10:29:02 am ---I don't know very much about endurance training but looking at what elite professional climbers do is usually not helpful. They're most likely genetic freaks who can get away with enough volume at high intensity to get the work capacity benefits. Mortals would break with a equivalent level of volume and intensity so very low intensity climbing is done at high volume instead?
--- End quote ---
I suspect Ghisolfi has already payed his dues when it comes to endurance climbing over the years.
Obviously training has to be individualised, this is the law.
--- End quote ---
If memory serves, he already has an insanely high critical force. Maybe once gained it doesn't need much top up? Especially when 7c is probably Arcing...
Stu Littlefair:
He spends two days a week doing this form of training so he’s spending a fair amount of time topping up his critical force.
You can roughly (very roughly) break down endurance training into four groups:
1) arc / active rest
Not getting pumped at all.
2) Low intensity
Durations 15 mins+++ or
Reps of 5-10 mins with short rest
Get moderately pumped.
3) Mid intensity
Durations 5-10 mins
Rest 10+ mins
Come close to failure in each rep.
4) high intensity
Hard onsight attempts.
Long rest
It’s interesting because extrapolating from endurance sports what works best is a roughly 80/20 split between (2) and (3)/(4). This is for both the elite and punters.
We still don’t (as far as I know) have an agreed explanation for WHY that works best.
A lot of current perceived wisdom for climbing training comes from taking those practices and translating to climbing.
But it’s not clear if climbing requires different adaptations for endurance and therefore different training.
It’s interesting to look at what the best athletes are doing for two reasons:
a) they’ve become the best so are maybe doing something right.
b) they are usually quite invested in their training and will not stick with something if they perceive it to “not work”.
Of course, their genetics are different to ours and they may not always get it right but if all the pro climbers are ditching their base endurance, I’d pay attention.
Stu Littlefair:
--- Quote from: jwi on March 06, 2024, 10:16:27 am ---I suspect low level base endurance is a waste of time for competition climbers with a long history of training. But also, Ghisolfi is pretty shit at onsighting on rock compared to most of his peers.
--- End quote ---
I’m sure there’s an element of this. Do you know what the best outdoor French climbers tend to do in this regard?
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