the shizzle > diet, training and injuries

Stefano Ghisolfi video on Endurance training

<< < (4/4)

petejh:

--- Quote from: Stu Littlefair on March 06, 2024, 06:36:14 pm ---He spends two days a week doing this form of training so he’s spending a fair amount of time topping up his critical force.

You can roughly (very roughly) break down endurance training into four groups:

1) arc / active rest
Not getting pumped at all.

2) Low intensity
Durations 15 mins+++ or
Reps of 5-10 mins with short rest
Get moderately pumped.

3) Mid intensity
Durations 5-10 mins
Rest 10+ mins
Come close to failure in each rep.

4) high intensity
Hard onsight attempts.
Long rest

It’s interesting because extrapolating from endurance sports what works best is a roughly 80/20 split between (2) and (3)/(4). This is for both the elite and punters.

We still don’t (as far as I know) have an agreed explanation for WHY that works best.

A lot of current perceived wisdom for climbing training comes from taking those practices and translating to climbing.

But it’s not clear if climbing requires different adaptations for endurance and therefore different training.

It’s interesting to look at what the best athletes are doing for two reasons:

a) they’ve become the best so are maybe doing something right.
b) they are usually quite invested in their training and will not stick with something if they perceive it to “not work”.

Of course, their genetics are different to ours and they may not always get it right but if all the pro climbers are ditching their base endurance, I’d pay attention.

--- End quote ---

When I see endurance training like this I wonder about individual differences in ability to clear lactate from muscles, and whether all the top level are naturally blessed with efficient lactate clearance abilities or whether there are some 9b versions of the typical type often found lower down the grades: 'naturally good at power naturally shit at enduro'.

Would be interesting to see some test results on untrained climbers versus trained climbers, at different levels, with a self-reported 'good at power / good at endurance' split. Something along these lines - blood tests on track runners showing 800m athletes clear lactate from muscle to blood more quickly than 100m sprinters:  https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12669256/

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[*] Previous page