the shizzle > diet, training and injuries
Stefano Ghisolfi video on Endurance training
Stu Littlefair:
By the way if any sports science students want a dissertation idea it would be very interesting to translate the Seiler & Kjerland (2004) paper into rock climbing and send out questionnaires to World Cup lead competitors to see how their training breaks down over a season.
mrjonathanr:
--- Quote from: Liamhutch89 on March 06, 2024, 10:29:02 am ---I don't know very much about endurance training but looking at what elite professional climbers do is usually not helpful. They're most likely genetic freaks who can get away with enough volume at high intensity to get the work capacity benefits. Mortals would break with a equivalent level of volume and intensity so very low intensity climbing is done at high volume instead?
--- End quote ---
The stimulus for more capillaries to sprout is, I believe, the friction of blood flowing along the blood vessel wall. Directly proportionate to volume of time, not correlated with pressure/ibtensity.
So for mortals, super easy, super long is the way to go. Working hard will just reduce time.
For mutants who can work at high intensities for long time periods, the concept of ARCing (for that reason, rather than active rest) is probably null.
mrjonathanr:
--- Quote from: Stu Littlefair on March 06, 2024, 06:37:22 pm ---
--- Quote from: jwi on March 06, 2024, 10:16:27 am ---I suspect low level base endurance is a waste of time for competition climbers with a long history of training. But also, Ghisolfi is pretty shit at onsighting on rock compared to most of his peers.
--- End quote ---
I’m sure there’s an element of this. Do you know what the best outdoor French climbers tend to do in this regard?
--- End quote ---
Way back when, I climbed a lot with Yann Ghesquiers and Bruno Clément. Both had extraordinary levels of stamina. I can still hear Bruno shouting “I’m so pumped!” whilst doing yet another lap of an 8b. Awesome too to watch Yann fight through moves onsight, get past a crux move and then just relax, not on good holds, just when the power output dropped a touch. He never looked that strong, he just never fell off.
Neither ever trained or did easy routes (bar the odd 7a warm up). No ARC stuff, ever. Full bore every time.
PS typical rest period was 8 hour days of 7 days on, one off.
User deactivated.:
--- Quote from: Stu Littlefair on March 06, 2024, 06:36:14 pm ---It’s interesting to look at what the best athletes are doing for two reasons:
a) they’ve become the best so are maybe doing something right.
b) they are usually quite invested in their training and will not stick with something if they perceive it to “not work”.
Of course, their genetics are different to ours and they may not always get it right but if all the pro climbers are ditching their base endurance, I’d pay attention.
--- End quote ---
Do you think there could be some survivorship bias in what the best athletes do?
jwi:
--- Quote from: Stu Littlefair on March 06, 2024, 06:37:22 pm ---
I’m sure there’s an element of this. Do you know what the best outdoor French climbers tend to do in this regard?
--- End quote ---
Seb does such a brutal amount of volume in the week that even though it mostly looks superhard, it cannot be that bad...
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