the shizzle > diet, training and injuries

Stefano Ghisolfi video on Endurance training

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jwi:
Stefano Ghisolfi doing doubles, selling a gizmo, and answering questions on enurance training for climbing, Ignore the click baity title.

Stu Littlefair:
Very interesting that he seems to do no really low level base - what lattice call aerocap.

His doubles are probably taking ~10 minutes and each rep looks near his limit. Be interesting to know how long his rests are.

PeteHukb:

--- Quote from: Stu Littlefair on March 06, 2024, 09:03:15 am ---Be interesting to know how long his rests are.

--- End quote ---
After the first set he says he rests 15mins. Not sure if that's fixed or just happens to be his work:rest ratio for that set.

jwi:

--- Quote from: Stu Littlefair on March 06, 2024, 09:03:15 am ---Very interesting that he seems to do no really low level base - what lattice call aerocap.

His doubles are probably taking ~10 minutes and each rep looks near his limit. Be interesting to know how long his rests are.

--- End quote ---

Towards the end of the video he shows that his session was 2 hours and that he did 4 doubles of about 160 m of climbing taking around 30 min. Not counting the 3 routes (about 60 m) he did for warmup, so I guess the session took around 2h30 min in total.

I suspect low level base endurance is a waste of time for competition climbers with a long history of training. But also, Ghisolfi is pretty shit at onsighting on rock compared to most of his peers.

User deactivated.:
I don't know very much about endurance training but looking at what elite professional climbers do is usually not helpful. They're most likely genetic freaks who can get away with enough volume at high intensity to get the work capacity benefits. Mortals would break with a equivalent level of volume and intensity so very low intensity climbing is done at high volume instead?

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