[gme]

Steve Mc 9b 47 years old is the oly answer you need.

[rodma]

Steve Mc 9b 47 years old is the oly answer you need.

Until you realise 47 has come and went 

As Jordan said, I'd also struggle to be motivated to still push hard if I worked in a climbing related industry.  Twice in the past, employers have been surprised that I (of all people) walked away from a position (and a  potential position) within the industry.

Other folk have mentioned trying hard still being an important part. For me,  trying hard is what made me have a hernia (now repaired) and snap my left ankle (not from falling off or landing, but fighting on). I have to be a little more careful, but that may be due to my convective tissue having the integrity of raspberry bootlace.

I'm stronger in different ways now, am more strategic with my training and project selection, but there's no doubt that I'm way past my physical peak. That doesn't mean I won't be able to climb a harder grade than previously though (partly because I never set the bar all that high in the first place).

[andy moles]

Steve Mc 9b 47 years old is the oly answer you need.

Not sure that's necessarily true, I can personally take more inspiration from some of the varied perspectives on this thread than from someone whose standard was elite. I'm never going to have the talent, drive or dedication of Steve Mc, I can't even relate to it really. It's the flaw in the assumption that the top performers are those best placed to set an example or give advice. I'm more interested to hear from climbers who are a few years older and maybe a couple of grades stronger than me, about what keeps them ticking.

[Rocksteady]

Watching this thread with interest, 42 now and since having kids 6 years ago my climbing has been stagnant at best. But still hope that I have a chance to climb harder when I'm older...

My dad is my example of progress in older age. He climbed E5/6ish in late 70s/early 80s so must have been strong then. But then quit climbing for 25 years until I took it up, so he was in his early 50s. Climbed F7a aged 56, progressed to F8a aged 63.
Retiring and moving to Dorset helped! He also put a board in his garage and did funny training on it, not really that many hard straight up problems, more individual moves and reps of hangs in difficult positions, often adding weight over time. When he was trying to get fit he did circuits, adding weight with a vest. He said what worked for him was really low volume training but trying hard, then mostly redpointing harder routes. Wasn't that interested in bouldering but managed V8 in his 60s.
I like to hope I can do similar, but picked up more injuries in my 20s and 30s than he did in his 50s so maybe I have the genes from the other side of my family and not him!

[SA Chris]

nap my left ankle (not from falling off or landing, but fighting on)

Sorry, what??

Also what andy moles says - SteMac can be held aloft as a shining example, but let's be honest he is a total outlier.

[Wellsy]

There's lots of different kinds of people in this block really, there's people who started young and are at a high level trying to preserve it, people who started young but weren't at their peak until much older, and people who started when they were older

[rodma]

nap my left ankle (not from falling off or landing, but fighting on)

Sorry, what??

Also what andy moles says - SteMac can be held aloft as a shining example, but let's be honest he is a total outlier.

Aggressive heelhooking, putting way more force through my ankle than I probably ever previously have. My foot went from being in line with my shin, to being at right angles (sideways).

Similarly inguinal hernia. Was seriously torqeuing on a weird toehook so I wouldn't drop an ascent of some midgrade font lowball.

I guess try hard, but only in ways you've trained is probably my take away.

[andy moles]

I was often lazy about the physical game.

But not about building flawless dry stone platforms to level landings.

[SA Chris]

Aggressive heelhooking, putting way more force through my ankle than I probably ever previously have. My foot went from being in line with my shin, to being at right angles (sideways).

Similarly inguinal hernia. Was seriously torqeuing on a weird toehook so I wouldn't drop an ascent of some midgrade font lowball.

Cheers. 2 new fears unlocked....

[steveri]

As Cheque said, it helps to have never been any good. Bouldering up to about 7A+ late 90s, at the time that felt like an ok standard. Now feels like entry level for wall grads. Basically took my 40s off plus a bit, back to 'advanced beginner' about 10 years ago. 59 and working around a condition that shapes how much training I can handle (plus natural laziness) and back to the occasional high point of 7A and freak 7A+. I'll take that graph.

[petejh]

Good thread, interesting to read different views. Northern yob's post resonates. I get most enjoyment from doing new routes and exploring new areas, also still love climbing in all different styles from bouldering to alpinism. Being able to go from ice to mountains to bouldering to trad to sport helps keep it fresh for me although limits the level in any of them.

It's much harder now than it would have been 20-30 years ago to find good new routes south of the Scottish border, I think this has begun to reduce slightly my motivation recently - having to travel further to find blank canvass for me introduces questions of 'why?'. There's something good about developing an area in your own backyard, once that's gone I can start to question the connection I have to places that aren't my home area and whether it's sensible to invest time and emotion into it. That's when the other parts matter more - companions, adventure, good food, travel, and just repeating quality climbs at any (doable) grade. Although with more time on my hands I'm planning to test that theory of emotional connection to a place and how much it matters.

I think I see climbing as a means to living 'the good life', as long as it provides that I'll be happy with it. I think I'm settled with the fact that it's meaningless beyond that. 

[gme]

Steve Mc 9b 47 years old is the oly answer you need.

Not sure that's necessarily true, I can personally take more inspiration from some of the varied perspectives on this thread than from someone whose standard was elite. I'm never going to have the talent, drive or dedication of Steve Mc, I can't even relate to it really. It's the flaw in the assumption that the top performers are those best placed to set an example or give advice. I'm more interested to hear from climbers who are a few years older and maybe a couple of grades stronger than me, about what keeps them ticking.

Totally disagree. The fact that steve had already performed to a high standard all his life and continued to improve shows age is no barrier to performance. A lot of people are starting from a very low base point as they didnt climb anywhere near as hard as they could have in there 20s/30s so makes it much easier to improve in old age.

As to whether you have the motivation or not to do it, i didnt think that was covered in the question. Its obvious that if you have not got the time or cant be arsed you will not improve in your 40s/50s.

If you didnt climb in the 8s when you were 20/30 there is nothing physically doing so in your 50/60s.

[andy moles]

Totally disagree.

With what? All I said was that Steve Mc is not necessarily 'the only answer you need'. As evidenced by the fact several people are appreciating hearing from others.

The original question was actually to share approaches to training etc, not just evidence that it's possible.

[andy popp]

I probably climbed my physically hardest problems in my mid to late 40s ... but only on my board. Outside my progress came to a grinding halt at 37, when I was probably still (just about) climbing as well as I ever had. That was my age when my wife was diagnosed with an illness that would completely consume and upend the next five years and would end only with her death, when I was 42 and we had children of 8 and 12. I never completely stopped and eventually got back to a pretty decent standard, but - unsurprisingly - my relationship to climbing, and its role in my life, had changed completely. I still loved it as much as ever but it was important in very different ways. With my opportunities now very restricted it came to be much more about connections to place, about solace, and about a little time away, often by myself. It had to fit itself around the rest of life, not least work and career, for which I had also become much more committed and motivated.

To be honest, I think things would have changed anyway, as my strength had always been in bold trad and I think I would have lost the appetite for that over time regardless. As a single parent my attitude to risk changed completely. I was lucky to walk away from what could have been a catastrophic fall at Helsby. Even as I hit the floor I realised I could no longer afford such risks.

Obviously, this is an unusual set of circumstances, but I think it probably points to questions everyone faces as they get older: what is my relationship to climbing, why and how is it important to me, what do I get from it and what do I want from it?

[Fiend]

I was often lazy about the physical game.

But not about building flawless dry stone platforms to level landings.

TBH the only game that counts 

[andy moles]

I was often lazy about the physical game.

But not about building flawless dry stone platforms to level landings.

TBH the only game that counts 

Obvious crossover benefits to open hand pinch strength.

[chrisbrooke]

I started at 19 (1997), got elbow tendonitis almost immediately ( ) but loved it and have been at it ever since, oscillating between a bit injured and a lot injured it seems. Anyway, never had a lot of talent for it but loved trad and got out around the country and Europe placing nuts or clipping bolts. In my best years was pretty solid around E2, topped out at E4, so obviously not a very accomplished climber, but competent and safe on the whole.

Had child 1 in 2015, moved to Sheffield in 2016, child 2 in 2017. Got into bouldering as it fitted with the lifestyle of full-time work and young children. Got up to 7B+ (age 41) on my own efforts, more or less just going climbing outside. No training, no indoor walls. I've worked on and off with a coach for a couple of years and ticked my first 7C in 2022 at 44.  Currently not climbing as I've an A2 rupture so I'm keeping my spirits up with lots of swimming and other things.

In my case I've never wanted to compromise on my family life, so my kids (almost) always come first, which usually pushes my training to very late at night, or very early in the morning. You do need to be motivated to be hanging off the Beastmaker at midnight, or down in the cellar deadlifting at 5am, but it works for me. And my climbing sessions tend to be midday, mid-week so I don't miss much family time at weekends or evenings. This obviously isn't going to work for many people.

I provide that context to demonstrate that although my grades and achievements are very modest, I've improved most, and made the most gains in my 40s. However, it's very much not been linear and the risk and reality of injuries have always been there for me. I don't seem to be terribly robust and bouldering is a very tough sport. Now, approaching 46 I'm starting to twig that I may have peaked as the diminishing returns of training seem to be....... diminishing..... and staying 'healthy' is getting harder. Once my finger heals up I'm interested to see what I can achieve this year, but I'll probably have to build up again very slowly and carefully before jumping on 'hard' projects. The motivation is still there though, so we'll see.

TLDR it's definitely possible to climb and improve into your 40s but is tough to manage in the context of a 'rounded' life of other more important commitments, and a body that takes longer to recover from exercise and is more prone to injury. Good luck!

[gme]

Totally disagree.

With what? All I said was that Steve Mc is not necessarily 'the only answer you need'. As evidenced by the fact several people are appreciating hearing from others.

The original question was actually to share approaches to training etc, not just evidence that it's possible.

Was disagreeing with your comment. It's the flaw in the assumption that the top performers are those best placed to set an example or give advice

[andy moles]

Totally disagree.

With what? All I said was that Steve Mc is not necessarily 'the only answer you need'. As evidenced by the fact several people are appreciating hearing from others.

The original question was actually to share approaches to training etc, not just evidence that it's possible.

Was disagreeing with your comment. It's the flaw in the assumption that the top performers are those best placed to set an example or give advice

Well, you're welcome to disagree if you're speaking for yourself. But if it's true that it isn't worth looking beyond the top performers for personal inspiration, why's anyone replying to this thread?

[Hoseyb]

I was often lazy about the physical game.

But not about building flawless dry stone platforms to level landings.

TBH the only game that counts 

Obvious crossover benefits to open hand pinch strength.

Strong Thumbs for the Jams, and work those glutes

[gme]

Totally disagree.

With what? All I said was that Steve Mc is not necessarily 'the only answer you need'. As evidenced by the fact several people are appreciating hearing from others.

The original question was actually to share approaches to training etc, not just evidence that it's possible.

Was disagreeing with your comment. It's the flaw in the assumption that the top performers are those best placed to set an example or give advice

Well, you're welcome to disagree if you're speaking for yourself. But if it's true that it isn't worth looking beyond the top performers for personal inspiration, why's anyone replying to this thread?

Why are you so wound up with my comment. I was answering the original question with what i thought was a good example.

Progress when you get older. Has anyone on here climbed their hardest route over the age of 40?

Steve, whilst not on here, is a prime example of someone who proves its possible to do so. Dave Mc also, Neil Gresham another.

You suggested that wasn't the only answer you need and i disagreed as i feel its the perfect answer. He and lots of other all prove you can progress when you get older, even from a very high base line. 

[webbo]

Totally disagree.

With what? All I said was that Steve Mc is not necessarily 'the only answer you need'. As evidenced by the fact several people are appreciating hearing from others.

The original question was actually to share approaches to training etc, not just evidence that it's possible.

Was disagreeing with your comment. It's the flaw in the assumption that the top performers are those best placed to set an example or give advice

Well, you're welcome to disagree if you're speaking for yourself. But if it's true that it isn't worth looking beyond the top performers for personal inspiration, why's anyone replying to this thread?

Why are you so wound up with my comment. I was answering the original question with what i thought was a good example.

Progress when you get older. Has anyone on here climbed their hardest route over the age of 40?

Steve, whilst not on here, is a prime example of someone who proves its possible to do so. Dave Mc also, Neil Gresham another.

You suggested that wasn't the only answer you need and i disagreed as i feel its the perfect answer. He and lots of other all prove you can progress when you get older, even from a very high base line. 

I climbed my hardest route at 40 years and one month and my hardest problem at 51.

[spidermonkey09]

Steve Mc is so obviously an outlier that I struggle to see him as 'inspirational' in the same way I do 'normal people' who have climbed harder as they get older. McClure is so obviously not 'normal' its ridiculous. History will probably record the man was climbing at a 9b level way ahead of the rest of the field. Even now he is among the best, if not the best trad climber in the UK (not counting Pearson as hes no longer resident I think?). I don't think Andy is getting wound up, hes just pointing out that saying 'Steve Mac can do it so anyone can' isn't necessarily true, because whatever Steve would say in his characteristically self deprecating way, he is clearly naturally gifted in a way that the rest of us mortals can only dream of.

I'm also not convinced by the examples of Dave Macleod (best all round climber Britain has ever produced?) and Gresham (early Indian Face repeat, did Equilibrium when that was absolutely cutting edge (only one repeat ever since?), clearly got inhuman capacity for training)

[andy moles]

Don't worry, I'm not wound up.

I just found it a strange thing to say that you strongly disagree about - me basically saying that I think it's worth hearing about people other than just Steve McClure about progressing as you get older (and my own personal reasons for feeling that way, which I doubt are unusual).

[petejh]

Perhaps Ste Mac and the others mentioned who've dedicated their whole time to climbing are the under-achievers? When taken relative to Mr Anon 8c+ or E8 onsighter non-professional climber, with a full-time job who doesn't benefit from subsidised/free climbing trips and subsidised/free training advice.
Yes there's a huge gap in volume of hard climbing. But is a peak performance of 2 or 3 sport or E grades higher than a non-professional really that big a performance difference, after a life dedicated entirely to the pursuit of climbing? Manchester City versus Llandudno FC it isn't. 

Said in spirit of devil's advocate, I massively admire McClure and his achievements!