the shizzle > power club

Power Club 741 19 - 25 Feb 2024

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duncan:
Hello power clubbers.

M - Siurana Herbolari with Emmi. Three lowly graded routes that didn't feel easy. 

T - Siurana Primavera with Emmi. Two 6bs and two 6b+s. Shoulder conditioning: handstands and so on.

W - Siurana Grau dels Masets on my own. Abseiled La Muerte del Sponsor to check if it was a realistic prospect this trip. Slightly better hip flexibility compared with December meant I was able to go back to my original beta on a couple of key moves so this could be on as a project. Leg conditioning and flexibility.

T - Siurana Siurunella Est with Emmi. Repeated Mucho Papito, onsighted Border Line (excellent, a bolted E3!) and failed to onsight Pocapena (ditto). Feeling a bit tired. 

F - Rest day. Walked up to Montsant ~9km.

S - Siurana Grau dels Masets. Worked La Muerte del Sponsor using a Taz Lov. First time I’ve tried one and it seems very good for this purpose. It slides up the rope as smoothly as a shunt but catches and lowers like a grigri so there is no need to remove or change the device if you want to try the same section repeatedly. It was still a scary process but I’m hoping it will become a bit less so as I get more accustomed to it. I’m very inefficient at working routes but did all the climbing between the boulder problems at the start and finish in two parts. The next goal is to do this section in one which will be about 7a/+. Rain was forecast the following morning so had three separate working sessions and was pretty tired by the end. A local lad onsighted it between my tries as his warm-up (I felt less inept after discovering he was projecting an 8c nearby).

S - Battered. Rain as forecast so taking a rest day. A little shoulder and hip conditioning.

A pretty good week, getting back into the swing of climbing on rock. No recurrence of the health issue that nearly scuppered the trip and not feeling any tweaks. La Muerte is on. Would also like to onsight a 7a but it might be a stretch to do both so I’m going to focus on projecting for now.

I have had toothache (or a gum infection?) in one of my molars the whole week. This is a known issue and it may need to be extracted. Any pointers on how to find a dentist in the area? I wouldn't know where to start.

Also, the rental car had a front door lock smashed whilst parked overnight in the main car park in Cornudella. I presume an attempted break-in though there was nothing in the car of course. I’ve been renting cars in Spain for 30 years and this is the first episode of this kind so I suppose I’ve been lucky. Still a bit depressing that it should happen here, which has felt like a home-from-home, and not a bigger city. Should be covered by the excess insurance but will no doubt take time and a pain to get my money back. Doors all still function with the electronic lock, is there any need to report anything before dropping the car off?

Wellsy:
Sounds like good time on rock Duncan, sorry about the tooth and the car

Monday - 7secs on 53 off x 6 on the 20mm edge, @25kgs added. Gentle recovery circuit.

Tuesday - short (1hr) board session, pulling session.

Weds - rested.

Thursday - Max hangs up to 55kgs on the 20mm edge for 5 seconds, an all time PB :) Cleans up to 80kgs.

Friday - indoor bouldering, good session. Feel much much stronger, faster, more confident etc since this training block started in Jan. Press: 3 x 8 dips, benched up to 90kgs for a single (annoyingly hard, 80 for 3 was okay tho).

Saturday - Went out to Burbage South with an old mate. Did a few problems, beautiful day. Discovered that I can now dog sit but not without dabbing the one time I got it from the bottom. I noticed people in vids overwhelmingly (as in, all of them) French the first move, is that allowed? I did, but as I did, this is about as shaky a tick can be without gaskins being involved

Friday - Weightlifting, 35kg snatches over and over to get the technique. Back Squats. Push Press up to 70kgs, pleased. Kilter; did a couple new 7As but skin failed before anything else. Some pulling training which really felt like it was the last of the tank for this weekend. 45 mins gentle yoga this evening to ease everything out

All in all a great week. Feeling probably better at bouldering than ever before, technique and strength at its peak tbh; enjoying the psyche, keen for more good weather. Long may this continue!

Duma:
Good luck with the next few weeks Duncan, hope the car and tooth don't cause any more issues. Glad you're feeling good Wellsy, what's made the difference do you think?


M - eve, run, 6k hilly trail, muddy and slow. Just testing out my calf really, and seems to have passed which is nice
T - eve TCA, 120 min, new whites (high 6's). 18 problems, flashed 11, 3 pretty quick, 1 with a bit of work, 3 not done. DIP seems to have settled, elbow improved but ongoing.
W - eve, TCA, 120 min new whites. 15 problems (including the 3 left from yesterday), 10 flashes, 2 quick, 1 with a bit more work, 2 not done.
T -
F - lunch, Flashpoint Swindon, 60 min. Circuits, time to start putting some moves in my arms before spring. On the 4 minute mark, so approx 40% climbing time. 5, 6b, 6b,  6c, 7b, 6b, 6b, 6c, 6c, 6c, 6c, 6b, 6b, 6c, 6c. Aimed to keep pump below 50% and mostly successful, apart from being tempted by the 7b early on, and the last couple of laps.
S - lunch, Bloc, 90 min. Change of scene as the TCA comp was on. Load of mid 6 to low 7 stuff. Bit parkour for my taste but fun for a change.
S - woke up with very sore R neck/upper back, annoying and painful all day. Aft, run, 5k flat pavement, wet, cold, 27 min. Calf ok.

L DIP and golfers both regressing a little since I've been back, still better than before the holiday though. Calf seems fixed at least.

71 kg.

Wellsy:
Honestly climbing loads and just having a happy positive mindset, accepting I'm a bit competitive but that I also do love this, etc etc

I will say taking time out (or at least, changing focus) last year to focus on lifting helped mentally and physically. Mentally it gave me a break and makes me feel more confident about my knee. Physically I feel like even though pushing a bigger squat, bench and deadlift made my bouldering worse at the time, now I'm doing a lot of bouldering specific training and climbing loads, I definitely feel way more athletic and even though I weigh a little more, on the fingerboard, the woody, and on things like weighted pullups, my max had gone up in absolute AND relative terms. So that could be it too

But really I think bouldering loads and just letting myself enjoy it and try hard :)

Aussiegav:
Nice reads. Home and abroad.


Monday -

30min Peloton Tabata ride

Tuesday
Elbow operation
Check in at 7am. In theatre by 8:45am.
Had nerve block & general anaesthetic
Back on ward by 12:30pm. Spent until Friday morning in the continuous passive movement machine.  Flexing 130 degrees to 0 degrees.
Finally regained sensation in my fingers at 4am on Wednesday.

Wednesday

All day in CPM machine. Able to move my hand & fingers by 12pm.

Thursday
Had shower in the morning with another another 24 hrs of CPM

Friday
Began physio work. Basic movement extension & flexion. Noted increased movement from before. My right arm is very bruised and very swollen. 
Given a short list of exercises to do from
The physio. Had none to very little details on number sets etc…..

Did some research and built a more detailed rehabilitation session on Crimpd


Saturday
Elbow rehab sessions. 2 sessions per day
Elbow flex & pulses
Elbow extension & pulses with Theraband
External rotations with Theraband

30 minutes on peloton elbow discomfort was mild to moderate.

Sunday
Virgin Gym. Strength training

Elbow rehab sessions.
Elbow flex & pulses
Elbow extension & pulses with Theraband
External rotations with Theraband
3x10 asian squats
4x4 pistol squats

Evening elbow rehabilitation session
Off for physio appointment tomorrow at Hallamshire Hospital

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