[andy moles]

So bottom end 9A, harder than Alphane, carefully avoided saying Alphane is 8C+...yet 

If Jack is the smallest boy in the class and Joe is smaller than Jack, is Joe in the class?

You don't always have to say something explicitly for the message to be clearly delivered.

I'm bored of reading that blahblah climbed whatever, just cut the waffle and tell us if they downgraded it. Preferably with caps lock emphasis and appropriate inflections of verbs such as 'destroy' or 'humiliate'.

[crimpinainteasy]

I have been waiting for this topic to veer onto that J Schubert got shut down on Sleepwalker yet did Alphane etc etc, but no one is going there. I guess I will have to nudge you lot. What does it say about a)Alphane b)Schubert c) Bosi d)other stuff... please carry on.

That it is amazing that Schubert is close to being the near best boulderer in the world (and near to the best lead climber in the world) despite having a full time job of being the clearly best competition climber in the world?

Simon Lorenzi is also a full time comp climber. I think there's almost an argument that it's the background of training for comps that has made guys like Jakob, Simon, Tomoah, Janja, Brooke, and even ex comp climbers like Aidan, Will, and Shawn so good.

Even though the comp style of climbing isn't so applicable to outdoors these days, the baseline level of conditioning which you develop for comps, and the ability to perform under pressure (which could translate to sending a boulder within a limited weather window outdoors) could definitely count for a lot.

[jwi]

Simon Lorenzi doesn't exactly train for difficulty (lead), which is a lot more time-consuming than training for boulder.

[crimpinainteasy]

Simon Lorenzi doesn't exactly train for difficulty (lead), which is a lot more time-consuming than training for boulder.

He participated in almost every lead world cup last year as well as both olympic qualifying events. Just because he's better at boulder doesn't mean he doesn't train lead too.

[AndyP]

I have been waiting for this topic to veer onto that J Schubert got shut down on Sleepwalker yet did Alphane etc etc, but no one is going there. I guess I will have to nudge you lot. What does it say about a)Alphane b)Schubert c) Bosi d)other stuff... please carry on.

That it is amazing that Schubert is close to being the near best boulderer in the world (and near to the best lead climber in the world) despite having a full time job of being the clearly best competition climber in the world?

Simon Lorenzi is also a full time comp climber. I think there's almost an argument that it's the background of training for comps that has made guys like Jakob, Simon, Tomoah, Janja, Brooke, and even ex comp climbers like Aidan, Will, and Shawn so good.

Even though the comp style of climbing isn't so applicable to outdoors these days, the baseline level of conditioning which you develop for comps, and the ability to perform under pressure (which could translate to sending a boulder within a limited weather window outdoors) could definitely count for a lot.

The conditioning is likely part of it, and the ability to deal with pressure. But I imagine that e.g. the type of body awareness and fine grained skill acquisition that is fostered from a young age in these comp climbers has significant carry over outside. The indoor movement they learn doesn't transfer, but the ability to break down and learn movement like that almost certainly does.