UKBouldering.com

Wil Bosi has repeated Return of the Sleepwalker 9A (Read 56331 times)

remus

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3180
  • Karma: +170/-1

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3150
  • Karma: +174/-4
So bottom end 9A, harder than Alphane, carefully avoided saying Alphane is 8C+...yet  :worms: :worms: :worms:

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8191
  • Karma: +662/-121
    • Unknown Stones
Still, Alphane 8C+, BoD 9A. In this life or the next I will be proven right.

Quote from: Bosiwad
Return of the Sleepwalker comes in around the bottom end of the grade. Burden of Dreams was harder, but it is such a different style. I think 'Return' probably came in harder than Alphane'

Bosiwad strikes!  :bow:

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29623
  • Karma: +644/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
So bottom end 9A, harder than Alphane, carefully avoided saying Alphane is 8C+...yet  :worms: :worms: :worms:

Doesn't leave much room to squeeze it in and still get the grade.

Duncan campbell

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 808
  • Karma: +48/-2
Shame no Return of the Downgrader…!  :lol:

scragrock

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 329
  • Karma: +45/-0
Nice lad, glad things are going well for him :)

crimpinainteasy

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 123
  • Karma: +2/-0
Does this further cement Terranova as solidly in the 9A range?

Absolutely dying that the potential hardest boulder in the world is some manky limestone eliminate.

Fiend

Online
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13740
  • Karma: +696/-68
  • Whut
 :strongbench: nice one from the smiliest man in climbing!

https://www.instagram.com/will_bosi/p/C3nLKdJrZCC/?img_index=1

owensum

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 105
  • Karma: +7/-0
I'm sure Woods is also pretty happy to get the grade confirmed

grimer

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1598
  • Karma: +149/-2
His contract was quivering in trepidation!

scragrock

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 329
  • Karma: +45/-0
His contract was quivering in trepidation!
Interesting replacement for "Penis"

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5733
  • Karma: +362/-5
So impressive. Obviously, the world elite travel constantly so the idea of operating away from home territory doesn't really apply to them in quite the same way, but I still think it's incredibly impressive how Will has got both BoD and RotS done on his first trip to the respective areas (so far as I'm aware). His ability to focus and just close the deal is something else.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8191
  • Karma: +662/-121
    • Unknown Stones
Have you listened to the Billy Ridal-Alex Waterhouse Jam Crack, Andy? Interesting how they said that comp climbing was more relevant than they thought in performing under pressure and still getting it done.

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
 :bow:

I've noticed that once Bosi has the moves and links down on a problem, there seems to be a unique inevitability that he's just going to do it. I get the sense that for most of the other top climbers, they get close then have to wait for luck to line up (conditions, fatigue, skin, etc), perhaps regress, and have to come back later. The most likely reason is that these blocks just aren't at his limit. Imagine if he did one of these 100+ day sieges?

remus

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3180
  • Karma: +170/-1
The most likely reason is that these blocks just aren't at his limit. Imagine if he did one of these 100+ day sieges?

 :agree: he's doing these problems relatively quickly (12 days on RotSW vs 50+ for the FA, 24 days on Burden vs 4000+ attempts over 3 years by Nalle, 13 sessions on Alphane). Seems like there's more in the tank if he went down the mega project route.

edshakey

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 651
  • Karma: +47/-0
Seems like there's more in the tank if he went down the mega project route.
Terranova maybe?

If Will upgrades Terranova, does Adam still bother pursuing 9As since he'll have already done one (can tick off another hardest of a discipline)?

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1718
  • Karma: +160/-4
:bow:

I've noticed that once Bosi has the moves and links down on a problem, there seems to be a unique inevitability that he's just going to do it. I get the sense that for most of the other top climbers, they get close then have to wait for luck to line up (conditions, fatigue, skin, etc), perhaps regress, and have to come back later. The most likely reason is that these blocks just aren't at his limit. Imagine if he did one of these 100+ day sieges?

It's like no one's ever told him that you're supposed to get very close, then spend forever not making any more progress, then starting dropping the easier moves, until you eventually give up all hope and then somehow, by the grace of god, drag yourself over the top. And that's if you're lucky :rtfm:

nash1

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 236
  • Karma: +6/-0
I have been waiting for this topic to veer onto that J Schubert got shut down on Sleepwalker yet did Alphane etc etc, but no one is going there. I guess I will have to nudge you lot. What does it say about a)Alphane b)Schubert c) Bosi d)other stuff... please carry on.

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
I have been waiting for this topic to veer onto that J Schubert got shut down on Sleepwalker yet did Alphane etc etc, but no one is going there. I guess I will have to nudge you lot. What does it say about a)Alphane b)Schubert c) Bosi d)other stuff... please carry on.

In relation to Schubert, and to coin a phrase from boxing: styles make fights.

And something about conditions.

What it says about Bosi: freak of nature

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29623
  • Karma: +644/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
nice one from the smiliest man in climbing!

You wonder if his attitude and approach are factors in his success? He seems (to me) to be happy in what he does and enjoys it, maybe this frame of mind alleviates the pressure?

As well as being a freak of nature as Liam says.

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1612
  • Karma: +137/-11
I imagine it helps that he has done various other hard problems and therefore ROTS was neither something intimidating or something he had to prove or whatever

yetix

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 669
  • Karma: +35/-0
Alphane is 3h from his house. Obviously easier to work than a trip to the USA no?

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4399
  • Karma: +341/-1
  • Distorting facts posted on instagram
    • On Steep Ground
I have been waiting for this topic to veer onto that J Schubert got shut down on Sleepwalker yet did Alphane etc etc, but no one is going there. I guess I will have to nudge you lot. What does it say about a)Alphane b)Schubert c) Bosi d)other stuff... please carry on.

That it is amazing that Schubert is close to being the near best boulderer in the world (and near to the best lead climber in the world) despite having a full time job of being the clearly best competition climber in the world?

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1718
  • Karma: +160/-4
nice one from the smiliest man in climbing!

You wonder if his attitude and approach are factors in his success? He seems (to me) to be happy in what he does and enjoys it, maybe this frame of mind alleviates the pressure?

As well as being a freak of nature as Liam says.

It'll be hard not to have a smile on your face when it's obvious you're a level above bouldering heroes like Mr Webb and Mr Woods.

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4533
  • Karma: +155/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
nice one from the smiliest man in climbing!

It's the teenage diet of irn bru, chips and 4hr sessions on the campus board. If that doesn't break you, nothing will!

You wonder if his attitude and approach are factors in his success? He seems (to me) to be happy in what he does and enjoys it, maybe this frame of mind alleviates the pressure?

As well as being a freak of nature as Liam says.

andy moles

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 712
  • Karma: +55/-1
So bottom end 9A, harder than Alphane, carefully avoided saying Alphane is 8C+...yet  :worms: :worms: :worms:

If Jack is the smallest boy in the class and Joe is smaller than Jack, is Joe in the class?

You don't always have to say something explicitly for the message to be clearly delivered.

I'm bored of reading that blahblah climbed whatever, just cut the waffle and tell us if they downgraded it. Preferably with caps lock emphasis and appropriate inflections of verbs such as 'destroy' or 'humiliate'.

crimpinainteasy

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 123
  • Karma: +2/-0
I have been waiting for this topic to veer onto that J Schubert got shut down on Sleepwalker yet did Alphane etc etc, but no one is going there. I guess I will have to nudge you lot. What does it say about a)Alphane b)Schubert c) Bosi d)other stuff... please carry on.

That it is amazing that Schubert is close to being the near best boulderer in the world (and near to the best lead climber in the world) despite having a full time job of being the clearly best competition climber in the world?

Simon Lorenzi is also a full time comp climber. I think there's almost an argument that it's the background of training for comps that has made guys like Jakob, Simon, Tomoah, Janja, Brooke, and even ex comp climbers like Aidan, Will, and Shawn so good.

Even though the comp style of climbing isn't so applicable to outdoors these days, the baseline level of conditioning which you develop for comps, and the ability to perform under pressure (which could translate to sending a boulder within a limited weather window outdoors) could definitely count for a lot.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4399
  • Karma: +341/-1
  • Distorting facts posted on instagram
    • On Steep Ground
Simon Lorenzi doesn't exactly train for difficulty (lead), which is a lot more time-consuming than training for boulder.

crimpinainteasy

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 123
  • Karma: +2/-0
Simon Lorenzi doesn't exactly train for difficulty (lead), which is a lot more time-consuming than training for boulder.

He participated in almost every lead world cup last year as well as both olympic qualifying events. Just because he's better at boulder doesn't mean he doesn't train lead too.

AndyP

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 21
  • Karma: +5/-0
I have been waiting for this topic to veer onto that J Schubert got shut down on Sleepwalker yet did Alphane etc etc, but no one is going there. I guess I will have to nudge you lot. What does it say about a)Alphane b)Schubert c) Bosi d)other stuff... please carry on.

That it is amazing that Schubert is close to being the near best boulderer in the world (and near to the best lead climber in the world) despite having a full time job of being the clearly best competition climber in the world?

Simon Lorenzi is also a full time comp climber. I think there's almost an argument that it's the background of training for comps that has made guys like Jakob, Simon, Tomoah, Janja, Brooke, and even ex comp climbers like Aidan, Will, and Shawn so good.

Even though the comp style of climbing isn't so applicable to outdoors these days, the baseline level of conditioning which you develop for comps, and the ability to perform under pressure (which could translate to sending a boulder within a limited weather window outdoors) could definitely count for a lot.

The conditioning is likely part of it, and the ability to deal with pressure. But I imagine that e.g. the type of body awareness and fine grained skill acquisition that is fostered from a young age in these comp climbers has significant carry over outside. The indoor movement they learn doesn't transfer, but the ability to break down and learn movement like that almost certainly does.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal