[remus]

The deed is done.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/02/return_of_the_sleepwalker_9a_for_will_bosi-73602

[spidermonkey09]

So bottom end 9A, harder than Alphane, carefully avoided saying Alphane is 8C+...yet 

[Will Hunt]

Still, Alphane 8C+, BoD 9A. In this life or the next I will be proven right.

Return of the Sleepwalker comes in around the bottom end of the grade. Burden of Dreams was harder, but it is such a different style. I think 'Return' probably came in harder than Alphane'

Bosiwad strikes! 

[SA Chris]

So bottom end 9A, harder than Alphane, carefully avoided saying Alphane is 8C+...yet 

Doesn't leave much room to squeeze it in and still get the grade.

[Duncan campbell]

Shame no Return of the Downgrader…! 

[scragrock]

Nice lad, glad things are going well for him

[crimpinainteasy]

Does this further cement Terranova as solidly in the 9A range?

Absolutely dying that the potential hardest boulder in the world is some manky limestone eliminate.

[Fiend]

  nice one from the smiliest man in climbing!

https://www.instagram.com/will_bosi/p/C3nLKdJrZCC/?img_index=1

[owensum]

I'm sure Woods is also pretty happy to get the grade confirmed

[grimer]

His contract was quivering in trepidation!

[scragrock]

His contract was quivering in trepidation!

Interesting replacement for "Penis"

[andy popp]

So impressive. Obviously, the world elite travel constantly so the idea of operating away from home territory doesn't really apply to them in quite the same way, but I still think it's incredibly impressive how Will has got both BoD and RotS done on his first trip to the respective areas (so far as I'm aware). His ability to focus and just close the deal is something else.

[Will Hunt]

Have you listened to the Billy Ridal-Alex Waterhouse Jam Crack, Andy? Interesting how they said that comp climbing was more relevant than they thought in performing under pressure and still getting it done.

[User deactivated.]

 

I've noticed that once Bosi has the moves and links down on a problem, there seems to be a unique inevitability that he's just going to do it. I get the sense that for most of the other top climbers, they get close then have to wait for luck to line up (conditions, fatigue, skin, etc), perhaps regress, and have to come back later. The most likely reason is that these blocks just aren't at his limit. Imagine if he did one of these 100+ day sieges?

[remus]

The most likely reason is that these blocks just aren't at his limit. Imagine if he did one of these 100+ day sieges?

  he's doing these problems relatively quickly (12 days on RotSW vs 50+ for the FA, 24 days on Burden vs 4000+ attempts over 3 years by Nalle, 13 sessions on Alphane). Seems like there's more in the tank if he went down the mega project route.

[edshakey]

Seems like there's more in the tank if he went down the mega project route.

Terranova maybe?

If Will upgrades Terranova, does Adam still bother pursuing 9As since he'll have already done one (can tick off another hardest of a discipline)?

[36chambers]

I've noticed that once Bosi has the moves and links down on a problem, there seems to be a unique inevitability that he's just going to do it. I get the sense that for most of the other top climbers, they get close then have to wait for luck to line up (conditions, fatigue, skin, etc), perhaps regress, and have to come back later. The most likely reason is that these blocks just aren't at his limit. Imagine if he did one of these 100+ day sieges?

It's like no one's ever told him that you're supposed to get very close, then spend forever not making any more progress, then starting dropping the easier moves, until you eventually give up all hope and then somehow, by the grace of god, drag yourself over the top. And that's if you're lucky

[nash1]

I have been waiting for this topic to veer onto that J Schubert got shut down on Sleepwalker yet did Alphane etc etc, but no one is going there. I guess I will have to nudge you lot. What does it say about a)Alphane b)Schubert c) Bosi d)other stuff... please carry on.

[User deactivated.]

I have been waiting for this topic to veer onto that J Schubert got shut down on Sleepwalker yet did Alphane etc etc, but no one is going there. I guess I will have to nudge you lot. What does it say about a)Alphane b)Schubert c) Bosi d)other stuff... please carry on.

In relation to Schubert, and to coin a phrase from boxing: styles make fights.

And something about conditions.

What it says about Bosi: freak of nature

[SA Chris]

nice one from the smiliest man in climbing!

You wonder if his attitude and approach are factors in his success? He seems (to me) to be happy in what he does and enjoys it, maybe this frame of mind alleviates the pressure?

As well as being a freak of nature as Liam says.

[Wellsy]

I imagine it helps that he has done various other hard problems and therefore ROTS was neither something intimidating or something he had to prove or whatever

[yetix]

Alphane is 3h from his house. Obviously easier to work than a trip to the USA no?

[jwi]

I have been waiting for this topic to veer onto that J Schubert got shut down on Sleepwalker yet did Alphane etc etc, but no one is going there. I guess I will have to nudge you lot. What does it say about a)Alphane b)Schubert c) Bosi d)other stuff... please carry on.

That it is amazing that Schubert is close to being the near best boulderer in the world (and near to the best lead climber in the world) despite having a full time job of being the clearly best competition climber in the world?

[36chambers]

nice one from the smiliest man in climbing!

You wonder if his attitude and approach are factors in his success? He seems (to me) to be happy in what he does and enjoys it, maybe this frame of mind alleviates the pressure?

As well as being a freak of nature as Liam says.

It'll be hard not to have a smile on your face when it's obvious you're a level above bouldering heroes like Mr Webb and Mr Woods.

[Fultonius]

nice one from the smiliest man in climbing!

It's the teenage diet of irn bru, chips and 4hr sessions on the campus board. If that doesn't break you, nothing will!

You wonder if his attitude and approach are factors in his success? He seems (to me) to be happy in what he does and enjoys it, maybe this frame of mind alleviates the pressure?

As well as being a freak of nature as Liam says.

[andy moles]

So bottom end 9A, harder than Alphane, carefully avoided saying Alphane is 8C+...yet 

If Jack is the smallest boy in the class and Joe is smaller than Jack, is Joe in the class?

You don't always have to say something explicitly for the message to be clearly delivered.

I'm bored of reading that blahblah climbed whatever, just cut the waffle and tell us if they downgraded it. Preferably with caps lock emphasis and appropriate inflections of verbs such as 'destroy' or 'humiliate'.

[crimpinainteasy]

I have been waiting for this topic to veer onto that J Schubert got shut down on Sleepwalker yet did Alphane etc etc, but no one is going there. I guess I will have to nudge you lot. What does it say about a)Alphane b)Schubert c) Bosi d)other stuff... please carry on.

That it is amazing that Schubert is close to being the near best boulderer in the world (and near to the best lead climber in the world) despite having a full time job of being the clearly best competition climber in the world?

Simon Lorenzi is also a full time comp climber. I think there's almost an argument that it's the background of training for comps that has made guys like Jakob, Simon, Tomoah, Janja, Brooke, and even ex comp climbers like Aidan, Will, and Shawn so good.

Even though the comp style of climbing isn't so applicable to outdoors these days, the baseline level of conditioning which you develop for comps, and the ability to perform under pressure (which could translate to sending a boulder within a limited weather window outdoors) could definitely count for a lot.

[jwi]

Simon Lorenzi doesn't exactly train for difficulty (lead), which is a lot more time-consuming than training for boulder.

[crimpinainteasy]

Simon Lorenzi doesn't exactly train for difficulty (lead), which is a lot more time-consuming than training for boulder.

He participated in almost every lead world cup last year as well as both olympic qualifying events. Just because he's better at boulder doesn't mean he doesn't train lead too.

[AndyP]

I have been waiting for this topic to veer onto that J Schubert got shut down on Sleepwalker yet did Alphane etc etc, but no one is going there. I guess I will have to nudge you lot. What does it say about a)Alphane b)Schubert c) Bosi d)other stuff... please carry on.

That it is amazing that Schubert is close to being the near best boulderer in the world (and near to the best lead climber in the world) despite having a full time job of being the clearly best competition climber in the world?

Simon Lorenzi is also a full time comp climber. I think there's almost an argument that it's the background of training for comps that has made guys like Jakob, Simon, Tomoah, Janja, Brooke, and even ex comp climbers like Aidan, Will, and Shawn so good.

Even though the comp style of climbing isn't so applicable to outdoors these days, the baseline level of conditioning which you develop for comps, and the ability to perform under pressure (which could translate to sending a boulder within a limited weather window outdoors) could definitely count for a lot.

The conditioning is likely part of it, and the ability to deal with pressure. But I imagine that e.g. the type of body awareness and fine grained skill acquisition that is fostered from a young age in these comp climbers has significant carry over outside. The indoor movement they learn doesn't transfer, but the ability to break down and learn movement like that almost certainly does.