the shizzle > diet, training and injuries

Kilter Board

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mrjonathanr:
The Beacon one is fun, I look forward to sessions on that. Not tried any others. Good solid thuggery, can’t beat it.

thunderbeest:
Don't like it too much. I find the relevance of climbing only on semi jugs limited. When climbing very jumpy and cutting loose everything feels 2 grades overgraded  ut when trying to keep the tension a lot of the medium hard ones already start feeling impossible. And unfortunately i don't find many boulders outside where it's only semi jugs and space to cut loose.
Because of the gamification i struggle to go for form over will te send and tick the boulder.
Ones the boulders become hard and the use the feet for crimps I don't really like the holds either because I don't like crimping with 2 fingers only.

jwi:
I found the Kilter Board OK at 45-50 degrees. Almost every hold is a jug, and at 40 degrees, almost every move even at pretty low grades is a jump cutting loose. At 50 degrees some problems required me to keep at least one foot on. OTOH my better half who is even worse at bouldering then I am and found the Kilter board a fun way to train for steep routes.

At my pretty intermediate level of bouldering I found it all a bit samey and for some reason it was not very tempting to work stuff I could not flash/do within three goes.

The holds are of good quality though, and the lighting system is very convenient. If they replaced about half of the holds to other hold type than a rounded jug it could be a good system.

Re OP, I don't remember any particular problems, but the problems set by Jimmy Webb where among the better. Shocking, I know.

Fiend:

--- Quote from: Wellsy on February 20, 2024, 04:06:57 pm ---Been loving the Kilter Board of late. It's so fun! Chucking myself around and pulling hard. The one at the Hanger is set at 50° and that feels great for a raw power and strength session (@Fiend take note)

--- End quote ---
I've been back on the Depot 30° woodie already, thanks! Clawing my way back to 2022's levels of weakness.

stone:
They discuss Kilterboard at 21mins in   ;D

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