the shizzle > diet, training and injuries
Kilter Board
JamieG:
--- Quote from: jwi on February 23, 2024, 10:35:51 am ---I don't understand indoor grading of boulders at all.
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Fixed that for you (and in reality everyone else too). ;D
crimpinainteasy:
--- Quote from: jwi on February 23, 2024, 10:35:51 am ---I don't understand indoor grading of boulders at all. Outdoors, I expect to climb about the same grade regardless if it is in Ogawayama, Yosemite or Fontainbleau. Indoor I have to calibrate at every gym even though they use much of the same brand of holds.
I don't think it is particularly useful to compare flash-grades inside and outside though. Especially on boards. Unless it is the first time in your life you touch the specific holds on a problem it is not flash. And quite often two board problems share the same move somewhere, and if you've done one, the second can never be a flash.
If allowing flash on boards I would expect to flash harder grades indoors than outdoors. The same for any indoor wall really. If I go to a gym a few times and do some circuits, I know all the holds in the gym and thus can never truly flash again.
--- End quote ---
Tbh I don't think grades don't make that much sense in general. I.e. I feel like 7b at the cuttings, 7b in cheddar, and 7b in Mallorca all feel different even accounting for style.
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