[SA Chris]

https://www.theclimbinghangar.com/locations/edinburgh

Looks like it's going to be between Leith and Portobello, about 4 miles from Alien Rock.

So that's Ratho, Alien Rock, Alien Bloc, Eden Rock and now this. Can the city sustain them all?

I'm never at any of them on an evening, how busy do they get, locals?

[T_B]

The Hangar will be packed. They’ve got a formula that works, certainly in terms of filling their gym with people.

No idea about the other walls but if any of them currently rely on the student market, they will be worried.

[Wil]

They're all pretty busy in the evening my experience. If someone could open one in Stirling though...

[gme]

https://www.theclimbinghangar.com/locations/edinburgh

Looks like it's going to be between Leith and Portobello, about 4 miles from Alien Rock.

So that's Ratho, Alien Rock, Alien Bloc, Eden Rock and now this. Can the city sustain them all?

I'm never at any of them on an evening, how busy do they get, locals?

Bigger population than Newcastle and it has 5 already and one more coming. All within 2 miles of each other.

Sheffield less population still and again 5 in a 2 1/2 mile radius.

[rodma]

It may affect Eden and alien bloc at first, but long-term I don't foresee any issues, given what happened when Eden opened a few years ago (seemed too quiet for a while, now loads of new climbers)

Very aggressive introductory pricing from the hanger, the likes of which I've never seen before (in the climbing world that is). Less than half the annual cost of any of the other Edinburgh walls (for normal punters, I haven't looked at student rates).

I currently train at Eden and it is absolutely rammed midweek evenings. Some brief respite from that will be nice.

I'm not knocking the hanger in any way incidentally, I'll be heading there too. It's only a 6 minute drive from my hoose after all

[SA Chris]

They're all pretty busy in the evening my experience. If someone could open one in Stirling though...

Aberdeen/shire and all.

[SA Chris]

I currently train at Eden and it is absolutely rammed midweek evenings.

Good(ish?) to hear; I have only ever been there on weekends and it's been pretty quiet.

Hopefully they all thrive.

[Fultonius]

There are 9 or 10 at my last count in Amsterdam. Population is higher (800k vs 570k), but then there are many more walls in the surrounding towns and cities.

TCA walls in Glasgow are unbearably busy most nights of the week.

[Bradders]

There are 6 in Leeds within 10 miles of each other (furthest apart are Depot Pudsey and Last Sun Dance). If anything, were underserved with that.

[PlainCroi$$ant]

Alien Bloc is always packed - plus they’ve been able to get away with charging almost London prices and barely investing in the wall (old polished holds, average in-house setting, not especially clean). Most people I know that climb there can’t wait for the Hangar to open.

I think Alien’s prime location means they’ll still be fine, although Rodma is right about the pricing from the Hangar, which might lure even more people there - crazy cheap to start with!

[Fultonius]

I can't rememeber where I heard it, but it seemed to be from a decent source ad far as I rememeber, but I had heard thst was the Hangar's strategy - monthly passes at barely break-even price to lure everyone in and then make profit on day payers and cafe etc. Their day rates are quite high. (£15).

Alien may struggle unless it's managed to pay off most of its up front costs already.

[Dingdong]

I can't rememeber where I heard it, but it seemed to be from a decent source ad far as I rememeber, but I had heard thst was the Hangar's strategy - monthly passes at barely break-even price to lure everyone in and then make profit on day payers and cafe etc. Their day rates are quite high. (£15).

Alien may struggle unless it's managed to pay off most of its up front costs already.

I went to the Sheffield one the other day as I hadn’t been in a year or so and was quite shocked at having to pay £14 for a day pass 

[SA Chris]

Hopefully the other walls will up their game in the face of competition.

I've hear rumour that TCA had designs on a centre in Aberdeen, but were put off by business rates that are set high because the oil and gas  market can tolerate them, so they opened the second in Glasgow. Hopefully that might change, I heard the guy at Block 10 in Dundee was looking at one just out of city (Portlethen would be nice, there are empty premises there that would fit Ratho's footprint!) where rates are cheaper, but they are now expanding, so don't know if that's true or not.

[SA Chris]

I went to the Sheffield one the other day as I hadn’t been in a year or so and was quite shocked at having to pay £14 for a day pass 

When Ratho first opened about 10 years ago we stopped in on passing a they wanted something like a tenner to register and 15 to climb. I think they were in a financial hole and trying to get what they could in. They went under not long after and were bought by Edinburgh Council.

[abarro81]

Yeah, Hangar pricing is annoying - the wall isn't good enough to want it as your only wall (at least as someone who wants to train for sport climbing), but the day pass is too expensive to want to go there for sporadic sessions for novelty. It's definitely the least "by climbers, for climbers" of the walls IMO.

[Dingdong]

Yeah, Hangar pricing is annoying - the wall isn't good enough to want it as your only wall (at least as someone who wants to train for sport climbing), but the day pass is too expensive to want to go there for sporadic sessions for novelty. It's definitely the least "by climbers, for climbers" of the walls IMO.

Exactly what happened to me, it’s a shame because getting some variation is pretty useful but that day pass price was too rich for me. I’ll stick to the spray at school I think 

[T_B]

Put it this way, even if I had free entry to the Hangar I’d pay to go to the Depot/Works. The board is fine up to F7A but pretty limited. There’s a Kilter board if you want that style and you have to queue for most of the sections of wall. They’ve now got a decent circuit board having got rid of the splat. Would work as a quick hit daytime venue, but they must be kicking themselves that they didn’t get a bigger unit.

[gme]

I went to the Sheffield one the other day as I hadn’t been in a year or so and was quite shocked at having to pay £14 for a day pass 

When Ratho first opened about 10 years ago we stopped in on passing a they wanted something like a tenner to register and 15 to climb. I think they were in a financial hole and trying to get what they could in. They went under not long after and were bought by Edinburgh Council.

Showing your age there, it must be 20 years ago.

[gme]

Put it this way, even if I had free entry to the Hangar I’d pay to go to the Depot/Works. The board is fine up to F7A but pretty limited. There’s a Kilter board if you want that style and you have to queue for most of the sections of wall. They’ve now got a decent circuit board having got rid of the splat. Would work as a quick hit daytime venue, but they must be kicking themselves that they didn’t get a bigger unit.

I heard they were close to getting the unit next door as well initially but didn't commit, i guess they wish they had now. I think i would probably have been the same with al the other walls around and lease rates being pretty high for those kinds of units. Must be a good chunk of your business costs.

[Dingdong]

Put it this way, even if I had free entry to the Hangar I’d pay to go to the Depot/Works. The board is fine up to F7A but pretty limited. There’s a Kilter board if you want that style and you have to queue for most of the sections of wall. They’ve now got a decent circuit board having got rid of the splat. Would work as a quick hit daytime venue, but they must be kicking themselves that they didn’t get a bigger unit.

They should have kept the splatter in my opinion. A pretty good USP considering no other wall has one other than unit E (I think it’s still up?)

Anyways, not sure they struggling for customers. The times I’ve been it’s always been heaving, especially evenings. They definitely should have got a bigger unit…

[SA Chris]

Showing your age there, it must be 20 years ago.

You are right. It was in the PC (Pre Children) era, so well over 15 years. Time flies..

[Duncan Disorderly]

Put it this way, even if I had free entry to the Hangar I’d pay to go to the Depot/Works. The board is fine up to F7A but pretty limited. There’s a Kilter board if you want that style and you have to queue for most of the sections of wall. They’ve now got a decent circuit board having got rid of the splat. Would work as a quick hit daytime venue, but they must be kicking themselves that they didn’t get a bigger unit.

 

I got a membership to Sheff Hangar early in the winter as it was so cheap and it was warmer than all the other walls (I'm old and cold)... Had to cancel it because of crowds... I think it's verging on dangerous and they should probably have a number limit tbh (and I can't quite believe I'm saying that!).......

[sxrxg]

I know that it seems expensive but isn't £14 for a single visit about the going rate? I know Lancaster, Boardroom are similar prices. And The Depot, Climbing Hut are £12/£12.50.

Being based near Liverpool the Climbing Hanger membership is a great deal, £32.99 a month for access to two walls both with a different character. Also different boards at both and good setting (can't comment on the cafe or anything as I don't use these...) Also for outdoor climbers the option to cancel membership at a month's notice with no minimum term is great. Means I just take out membership from September until April then just climb outside after work and use my home training facilities.

[Fiend]

Boardroom - £15 - should be discounted heavily because you still have to put up with stupid moronic root-vegetable-based non-grades.
Manc Depot - £13.50
RockOvers - £13 - or £11 with a £10 yearly membership
Awesome Stockport / Blochaus / Summit Up / Onyx - still cheap ~£10
Hangar - irrelevant as boycotted due their their stupid moronic forcing people to sweat in excess clothing in an athletic training environment rule.

[Duma]

Hangar - irrelevant as boycotted due their their stupid moronic forcing people to sweat in excess clothing in an athletic training environment rule.

OT - TCA does this too now, idiots.

[Dingdong]

Boardroom - £15 - should be discounted heavily because you still have to put up with stupid moronic root-vegetable-based non-grades.
Manc Depot - £13.50
RockOvers - £13 - or £11 with a £10 yearly membership
Awesome Stockport / Blochaus / Summit Up / Onyx - still cheap ~£10
Hangar - irrelevant as boycotted due their their stupid moronic forcing people to sweat in excess clothing in an athletic training environment rule.

I just wear a shirt and unbotton it, still wearing a shirt 

[jakaitch]

Hangar - irrelevant as boycotted due their their stupid moronic forcing people to sweat in excess clothing in an athletic training environment rule.

OT - TCA does this too now, idiots.

Doesn't bother me either way but I guess the idea was to make it a more inclusive, less boulder-bro-y environment?

[rodma]

It's "taps oan" at Eden Rock Edinburgh too.

There was definitely a lot of posturing, chest-beating choadery in display on the run up to the ban. Mostly from younger folk not reading the room, rather than old farts like me.

[Moo]

I look fantastic in a vest so it doesn't bother me really.

[Fiend]

It's "taps oan" at Eden Rock Edinburgh too.

There was definitely a lot of posturing, chest-beating choadery in display on the run up to the ban. Mostly from younger folk not reading the room, rather than old farts like me.

Yeah particularly disappointed in Eden Rock as it was always a good wall(s) with good setting and good vibes (and I drove from the Weeg to Carlisle or Edinburgh fairly regularly because of that). As always the posturing, chest-beating choadery can be tackled by, errr, tackling the posturing, chest-beating choadery. Thankfully enough choice of different walls / chains in and around Manc that I'll move from one to another and hopefully be long dead before they all have this spurious, mis-targetted, issue-avoiding, token-gesture, training-inhibiting rule.

P.S. I'm with Chris and Will that more walls in the Stirling - Perth - Dundee - Deen area would be progressive.

[jakaitch]

It's "taps oan" at Eden Rock Edinburgh too.

There was definitely a lot of posturing, chest-beating choadery in display on the run up to the ban. Mostly from younger folk not reading the room, rather than old farts like me.

Yeah particularly disappointed in Eden Rock as it was always a good wall(s) with good setting and good vibes (and I drove from the Weeg to Carlisle or Edinburgh fairly regularly because of that). As always the posturing, chest-beating choadery can be tackled by, errr, tackling the posturing, chest-beating choadery. Thankfully enough choice of different walls / chains in and around Manc that I'll move from one to another and hopefully be long dead before they all have this spurious, mis-targetted, issue-avoiding, token-gesture, training-inhibiting rule.

P.S. I'm with Chris and Will that more walls in the Stirling - Perth - Dundee - Deen area would be progressive.

'Training inhibiting' does it really impact you that much though?

[abarro81]

We've been through this all before, repeatedly, surely? Shortcut to the end point - there are, fortunately, enough walls for some to cater for people intimidated by tops off blokes.. and for others to cater to those who think climbing should not have stupid dress codes like golf.

[scragrock]

It's "taps oan" at Eden Rock Edinburgh too.

There was definitely a lot of posturing, chest-beating choadery in display on the run up to the ban. Mostly from younger folk not reading the room, rather than old farts like me.

Yeah particularly disappointed in Eden Rock as it was always a good wall(s) with good setting and good vibes (and I drove from the Weeg to Carlisle or Edinburgh fairly regularly because of that). As always the posturing, chest-beating choadery can be tackled by, errr, tackling the posturing, chest-beating choadery. Thankfully enough choice of different walls / chains in and around Manc that I'll move from one to another and hopefully be long dead before they all have this spurious, mis-targetted, issue-avoiding, token-gesture, training-inhibiting rule.

P.S. I'm with Chris and Will that more walls in the Stirling - Perth - Dundee - Deen area would be progressive.

Build yer own wall, get ootside.
I often boulder "Pants aff" as a counter balance{i have droopy auld man balls}, this is highly ineffective but i do enjoy the blushes of the local bobby as he carts me yet again back to his station for processing.

[jakaitch]

We've been through this all before, repeatedly, surely? Shortcut to the end point - there are, fortunately, enough walls for some to cater for people intimidated by tops off blokes.. and for others to cater to those who think climbing should not have stupid dress codes like golf.

Yes, I agree just find it odd boycotting a wall because they want you to wear a top

[abarro81]

I don't find it too odd. I find the rule pretty pathetic in theory, annoying in practice, and against the vibe I want from climbing. I've been to the Hanger since it opened in Sheffield, but I feel dirty paying money to a wall that has that as a rule and probably would have been more if they didn't have that rule. All power to those who do vote with their feet. But, since there are plenty of walls without this rule, it doesn't wind me up too much. If the foundry tried to introduce it I would be incandescent with rage I would be distinctly more militant in my opposition!

[RobK]

The walls with this rule seems fine with girls in sport bras so in the warmer months I wear an old vest with the bottom off it. Gets a few odd looks but is cooler than a normal vest. In the temperature sense, certainly not in the fashion sense.

[Fiend]

'Training inhibiting' does it really impact you that much though?

Yes. Quite a lot. I overheat easily when climbing and sweat a lot.

I also have a vast selection of vests that I'd much rather wear because 1. I am a bit overweight and 2. I'd much rather be repping Deathchant Records, Ingested, Behemoth, Tech Itch Recordings etc etc than my wobbling gut.
 
I've covered this well before and have nothing further to add to the case, m'lud.

(Sorry for the derail, entirely my fault, there is definitely a good bigger topic about wall density, wall pricing, etc)

[stone]

My impression is that people are spooked about setting up a new wall somewhere that doesn't already have other walls. I suppose building a new wall in eg Sheffield seems a safer bet than one in Doncaster or Castleford or Essex or Lincoln or wherever -even though two walls have closed in Sheffield (Matrix and Edge). I guess it's the same phenomenon in Scotland.

About the shirt wearing -have people heard directly from people who are offended by lack of shirts? Is there an age limit where it is OK so long as you're older? -a bit like how pensioners go around supermarkets in speedos in heatwaves? I'm hoping to get such an exemption.

[rodma]

About the shirt wearing -have people heard directly from people who are offended by lack of shirts?

Last time I'll mention shirts, pinky-promise....

At Eden there's a really high number of new inductees, new to the sport and just about the first part of the induction takes them to the weights/ stretching area (which you can't see into that thoroughly if you're approaching from reception). I've been in there warning up, with just one other person there, who was shirtless and pulling the aforementioned weird faces (i tried my best withering look, which sometimes works, but not in this case). Cue one lone female getting their induction is led around the corner (full height mirror is the last bit to come into view) to be shown the friendly weights area. The member of staff carrying out the induction looked appalled and embarrassed and quickly moved the inductee on to the next section. Perhaps the centre(s) could have amended their rules to say that shirtless would be tolerated, but it's not a best- in-show competition, so if you're sitting stretching and it's baltic, keep your top on. I do appreciate that folk overheat, but in the run-up to the ban at Eden, it was really a behavioral issue.

Anyway, I'm just really glad that we're getting an extra wall.

In terms of opening walls in other cities/ towns without them, I think you're right that appears lower risk to go where there's already a market (instant footfall). A bit of data gathering by a prospective developer ought to tell them enough, but maybe that's too difficult in a gdpr world.

I know a good number of folk that cross the bridge to get to Eden, so an alternative to the North would be an alternative for them to go to.

[SA Chris]

Next reasonable alternative Northwards is Block 10 Dundee? Plenty of time rich bouldering friends rather drive the hour from here on an evening than endure Transition Extreme. If the lad wasn't that into doing routes I would travel down more often.   

[rodma]

Going to the P weekend today for those that prepaid and booked a slot. It was originally a vip weekend but I'll be about the 1000th person through the door, so doesn't really feel like early access any more.

Still, mustn't grumble, should be ace. 

[SA Chris]

Jammy Central Belt barstewards. I'll just have to content myself with walking down to Boltsheugh for a lunchtime session..

[Oldmanmatt]

The walls with this rule seems fine with girls in sport bras so in the warmer months I wear an old vest with the bottom off it. Gets a few odd looks but is cooler than a normal vest. In the temperature sense, certainly not in the fashion sense.

 ‘80s crop tops!
Yaaas!

In cerise pink, of course…

[rodma]

Jammy Central Belt barstewards. I'll just have to content myself with walking down to Boltsheugh for a lunchtime session..

If it makes you feel any better I jarred my lower back pinging off near the top of a problem during session 1 there and now have issues walking/ sitting/ sleeping   

It seems a good centre though, just needs the friction on the walls/ holds to calm down a bit










and the mats to break in a bit

[SA Chris]

Will have a look next time I'm down. Even a year Block 10 holds seem to destroy my skin. PU vs PE?