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IFSC comps 2024 (Read 38550 times)

edshakey

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#50 Re: IFSC comps 2024
May 07, 2024, 02:18:15 pm
It did seem that it could have been intended though, since those kind of jumps are very much a trend at the minute. Like when the 180 spin first got set last year. People have clearly been training that move (see Tomoa setting a similar move in that new video with Magnus), so I suppose it's no wonder their minds went towards a jump.
Not disputing that the spin was easier though, Meichi (I think it was him?) made it look quite straightforward.


sherlock

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#52 Re: IFSC comps 2024
June 25, 2024, 10:26:29 am
Just a heads up for those interested, Innsbruck WC with qualifying starting tomorrow.
I'm wondering if those who've qualified for Paris will compete and use it a warmup or give it a miss to avoid potential injury?

Muenchener

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#53 Re: IFSC comps 2024
June 25, 2024, 11:12:10 am
I take it you've seen who's registered? Looks like about 50:50

Doesn't necessarily mean they'll all actually show up on the day. Can't see Jakob missing his home event though.

SA Chris

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#54 Re: IFSC comps 2024
June 25, 2024, 11:16:01 am
Tough balance between injury risk and getting some big match training in.

edshakey

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#55 Re: IFSC comps 2024
June 25, 2024, 11:21:57 am
I think Erin said after Shanghai that if she qualified in Budapest, there would be time for a deload week, about 3/4 weeks of training, and then deload before Olympic comp begins (no mention on Innsbruck). I wouldn't be surprised if the OQS athletes miss it to give themselves some rest - they'll have been training hard for Budapest - but maybe the people who qualified a while ago will use it to get prepared for Paris.

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#56 Re: IFSC comps 2024
June 25, 2024, 11:35:18 am
I think Erin said after Shanghai that if she qualified in Budapest, there would be time for a deload week, about 3/4 weeks of training, and then deload before Olympic comp begins (no mention on Innsbruck). I wouldn't be surprised if the OQS athletes miss it to give themselves some rest - they'll have been training hard for Budapest - but maybe the people who qualified a while ago will use it to get prepared for Paris.

Yeah looks like most of the OQS qualified people are giving it a miss, while those who qualified earlier all look to be going to use it as a warm up. Makes sense from both sides.

sherlock

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#57 Re: IFSC comps 2024
June 25, 2024, 12:25:48 pm
I take it you've seen who's registered? Looks like about 50:50

Doesn't necessarily mean they'll all actually show up on the day. Can't see Jakob missing his home event though.
Ah thanks Muenchener, I. missed that :thumbsup:

Doug

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#58 Re: IFSC comps 2024
August 13, 2024, 12:59:05 pm
A couple of updates. I had missed that there’s the European Championships in a couple of weeks, and they’re going old-school with a simultaneous men’s & women’s final. They’re also having a Combined final, but I couldn’t seen any semi-final listed. Registration for Combined only lists 6 men (including Hamish) and 10 women (including Erin and Jessy Pilz) but I wouldn’t be surprised if any of the Olympic finalists decide to skip it.

The schedule for the World Cup in Seoul has been released; dates and times are below.

I have also discovered https://ifsc.stream/ which makes this post superfluous and also allows you to save the dates to your calendar of choice.

European ChampionshipsVillars, Switzerland
Boulder FinalsLocal timeUK time
Semi-finals men & women30 August 24 12:0030 August 24 11:00
Finals men & women30 August 24 20:0030 August 24 19:00
Combined FinalsLocal timeUK time
Finals women: Bouldering01 September 24 10:0001 September 24 09:00
Finals women: Lead01 September 24 12:0001 September 24 11:00
Finals men: Bouldering01 September 24 15:0001 September 24 14:00
Finals men: Lead01 September 24 17:0001 September 24 16:00
World CupPrague, Czech Rebuplic
FinalsLocal timeUK time
Semi-finals men21 September 24 12:0021 September 24 11:00
Finals men21 September 24 20:0021 September 24 19:00
Semi-finals women22 September 24 12:0022 September 24 11:00
Finals women22 September 24 19:0022 September 24 19:00
World CupSeoul, South Korea
FinalsLocal timeUK time
Semi-finals men & women03 October 24 10:0003 October 24 02:00
Finals men03 October 24 18:0003 October 24 10:00
Finals womenFollows men’s final

lemony

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#59 Re: IFSC comps 2024
August 13, 2024, 01:45:37 pm
Erin said in her Eurosport interview that she was planning on skipping and having a few weeks to process things.

edshakey

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#60 Re: IFSC comps 2024
August 13, 2024, 02:04:41 pm
And Hamish said before Paris that he was going on a long trip to Squamish so doubt he'll be back for it either.

rodma

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#61 Re: IFSC comps 2024
August 13, 2024, 03:29:29 pm
I wouldn’t be surprised if any of the Olympic finalists decide to skip it.

Me either being as some aren't European  :tumble:  :sorry:


teestub

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#62 Re: IFSC comps 2024
August 30, 2024, 01:23:45 pm


thought this little series was well put together, although can't help but thinking it would have been useful if it came out a month ago!

edshakey

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#63 Re: IFSC comps 2024
August 30, 2024, 02:44:04 pm
----
deleted - didn't see European champs thread had everything covered

lemony

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#64 Re: IFSC comps 2024
September 07, 2024, 08:01:31 pm
Really strong return from Toby, not sure Sorato looked like he had that move in him even without the dry fire. A route for the boulderers?

edshakey

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#65 Re: IFSC comps 2024
September 07, 2024, 08:40:17 pm
Yeah Sorato was just starting to struggle, I would have liked to see him get a little closer but not sure he could fight as far as Toby got.

Good for Erin to make another final too, successful comp considering GB only had two people in it.

sherlock

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#66 Re: IFSC comps 2024
September 20, 2024, 05:32:05 pm
Toby and Erin comfortably through to semis in Prague.

Duma

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#67 Re: IFSC comps 2024
September 20, 2024, 06:15:28 pm
And Max!

sherlock

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#68 Re: IFSC comps 2024
September 20, 2024, 06:30:08 pm
And Max!
Doh, of course! I'm the world's worst would-be reporter......
Erin only one in her group to top all 5 problems.Err, I think.

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#69 Re: IFSC comps 2024
September 21, 2024, 09:06:19 pm
Wow.What a Men's final!
It really isn't over 'til it's over. Just stood there, jaw sagging!

sirlockoff

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#70 Re: IFSC comps 2024
September 22, 2024, 06:13:12 am
what a weird weird finals, but happy for manu and well deserved

SA Chris

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#71 Re: IFSC comps 2024
September 25, 2024, 10:10:55 am
I noted in Erin McNeice's IG there was a protest about a zone, did anyone watch and can say what happened?

edshakey

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#72 Re: IFSC comps 2024
September 25, 2024, 01:42:18 pm
She got given zone on W3 in semis, but it was protested and she got it taken away (moving her out of finals spots).

https://youtu.be/cqqrN9jvVsM?feature=shared

Looks like from the video (got to 1:06:57) that she reached it, but as she "used" it she swung off. "Using" the hold is the contentious part - I think for the zone to be awarded, you have to use the hold, with your hands, to move your centre of mass. I suppose using the hold to move your centre of mass such that you fall straight off, that doesn't really count.

I'd say it wasn't particularly harsh, but i'm sure softer zones have been awarded in the past.

SA Chris

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#73 Re: IFSC comps 2024
September 25, 2024, 03:58:55 pm
Thanks.

edshakey

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#74 Re: IFSC comps 2024
October 03, 2024, 08:27:45 am
All 3 brits that made the trip to Seoul are in finals! Congrats Max/Dayan/Erin.

Finals begin 10am UK time.

 

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