I think your dates for the OQS in Shanghai are wrong, think it should be 16-19 May.
Couldn’t work out how to give Karma to you Doug. But take a metaphysical +1 from me
Now, how do I edit the original post?
Not sure I understand the scoring. Why is she ahead some of climbers with 5 tops (some with less attempts)?
. It does look like in this case they set pretty much identical (or mirrored) blocs for each group (compare Miho and Janja's ig stories), so it is interesting that Miho's side of the draw got many more tops
Didn't watch yet, but noticed Janja flashed a boulder nobody else could do. Business as usual I suppose.Congrats to Erin for 5th, must have been a while since we had a woman in finals (especially other than Shauna)
Nobody, not even Janja could top W2.
It must be really quite difficult to set for!
It all comes back to what would generally be seen as "The Janja Issue": are they setting for the top competitor, or the 6th? There have been many finals now where Janja or Natalia has topped all the boulders with ease, and multiple other people have not even topped one. Seems like a pretty impossible task to me, especially if 2 of the super-crazy-strong women are in it and need splitting.I fully agree that there are some routesetting issues with IFSC comps, especially women's comps, but I don't really have many ideas for how to set better when there is such a range in quality, even in just the final.
As long as you don't mind getting slagged off by Janja on insta for setting it too easy, I guess it's not really that different to setting as you otherwise would. You 'just' set to try and separate everyone else in the final and accept that Janja is gonna flash everything and take the win, and you get good separation to decide the 2nd to 6th.
Quote from: sherlock on April 09, 2024, 03:21:49 pmNobody, not even Janja could top W2.That was in the semi final. Out of 13 problems through the 3 rounds Janja did 12 of which 10 were flashed. At a quick glance the next best was Luo with 8 tops and 5 flashes. It must be really quite difficult to set for!
Great performances! Discovery+ only seems to have the last 52 mins of the morning session, anyone else just seeing that? It means none of the Brits are shown :/
Anyone know when the last time there were three brits in finals for a world cup was? I can't remember any but maybe back to the early 90s?
Leeds 1989, Jerry, Simon Nadin, Skinny Vinnie and Leachy