[Doug]

There are five IFSC World Cups this year, two further Olympic Qualifier Series and one Olympic Games.

World Cup	Keqiao, China
Finals	Local time	UK time
Semi-finals women	09 April 24 12:00	09 April 24 05:00
Finals women	09 April 24 19:00	09 April 24 12:00
Semi-finals men	10 April 24 12:00	10 April 24 05:00
Finals men	10 April 24 19:00	10 April 24 12:00
World Cup	Salt Lake City, USA
Finals	Local time	UK time
Semi-finals men	04 May 24 10:00	04 May 24 17:00
Finals men	04 May 24 18:00	05 May 24 01:00
Semi-finals women	05 May 24 10:00	05 May 24 17:00
Finals women	05 May 24 18:00	06 May 24 01:00
Olympic Qualifier Series	Shanghai, China
Finals	Local time	UK time
	16-19 May 2024
Olympic Qualifier Series	Budapest, Hungary
Finals	Local time	UK time
	20-23 June 2024	20-23 June 2024
World Cup	Innsbruck, Austria
Finals	Local time	UK time
Semi-finals women	27 June 24 13:00	27 June 24 12:00
Finals women	27 June 24 19:30	27 June 24 18:30
Semi-finals men	28 June 24 13:00	28 June 24 12:00
Finals men	28 June 24 19:30	28 June 24 18:30
Olympics	Paris, France
Finals	Local time	UK time
Bouldering semi-finals men	05 August 24 10:00	05 August 24 09:00
Bouldering semi-finals women	06 August 24 10:00	06 August 24 09:00
Lead semi-finals men	07 August 24 10:00	07 August 24 09:00
Lead semi-finals women	08 August 24 10:00	08 August 24 09:00
Combined final men	09 August 24 10:00	09 August 24 09:00
Combined final women	10 August 24 10:00	10 August 24 09:00
World Cup	Prague, Czechia
Finals	Local time	UK time
Semi-finals men	21 September 24 12:00	21 September 24 11:00
Finals men	21 September 24 20:00	21 September 24 19:00
Semi-finals women	22 September 24 12:00	22 September 24 11:00
Finals women	22 September 24 19:00	22 September 24 18:00
World Cup	Seoul, Republic of Korea
Finals	Local time	UK time
	2-6 October 2024	-8 hours

I accept no responsibility for incorrect information or dodgy time conversions.

[jwi]

Wow thanks!

[sherlock]

Yeah, thanks for that

[tk421a]

I think your dates for the OQS in Shanghai are wrong, think it should be 16-19 May.

https://stillmed.olympics.com/media/Documents/Olympic-Games/Paris-2024/Paris2024-QS-IFSC-Lead-Boulder.pdf

[Doug]

I think your dates for the OQS in Shanghai are wrong, think it should be 16-19 May.

You're right. It's in May not June.

Now, how do I edit the original post?

[alx]

Couldn’t work out how to give Karma to you Doug. But take a metaphysical +1 from me

[JamieG]

Couldn’t work out how to give Karma to you Doug. But take a metaphysical +1 from me

I think you need to have made a certain number of posts on the forum (50?) before you can dish out karma. But I might be misremembering.

[duncan]

Now, how do I edit the original post?

You ask a moderator nicely!

alx, I've wadded Doug on your behalf.

[Ali]

Thanks for this.
There are also 6 Lead World Cups in addition to the Boulder events listed above. Dates, times etc are here https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar

[lemony]

Results and ongoing rankings will be easiest to find here...
World Cups
Keqiao (B): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1353
Wujiang (L,S): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1354
Salt Lake (B, S): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1355
Innsbruck (L, B): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1356
Chamonix (L, S): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1357
Briancon (L, S): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1358
Koper (L): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1359
Prague (B): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1360
Seoul (L, B, S) https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1361

OCS:
Shanghai (L&B, S): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1384
Budapest (L&B, S): https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1385

[edshakey]

Comp season is approaching, Plywood Masters this weekend seems like one of the first preseason events.

I noticed Yufei Pan is in semi finals. Anyone know how long he's here, and what else he's up to - sticking around til CWIF maybe? It's relatively rare we get foreign climbers come over so I'm always interested to find out what they get up to (ie any sessions on rock...)

Here's the finals livestream, from 1630 https://www.youtube.com/live/LmrPGDa6o4k?feature=shared


Edit: one for semis too https://m.youtube.com/live/uEixn7KBYkM

[Duma]

Erin Mcneice has qualified for semis in 4th place in China, only second to janja in her half of the draw.

[wasbeen]

That is a great result. Well done her!

Not sure I understand the scoring. Why is she ahead some of climbers with 5 tops (some with less attempts)?

[IanP]

Not sure I understand the scoring. Why is she ahead some of climbers with 5 tops (some with less attempts)?

Two separate groups for qualifying, she came second in group A, looks like problems were much easier in group B.

https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1353/cr/8509

[wasbeen]

Thanks. I hadn't realised the two groups did different problems. I had (wrongly) assumed they did the same problems at a different time.

[Duma]

It's different problems for each half of the draw in qualifying, otherwise it would take too long. It does look like in this case they set pretty much identical (or mirrored) blocs for each group (compare Miho and Janja's ig stories), so it is interesting that Miho's side of the draw got many more tops

[lemony]

Is there any coverage of the qualifiers? I can't find any details of coverage. Classic IFSC stuff...

[lemony]

. It does look like in this case they set pretty much identical (or mirrored) blocs for each group (compare Miho and Janja's ig stories), so it is interesting that Miho's side of the draw got many more tops

Looking at Roman Krajnik's story and comparing to Miho's it looks like 1 and 5 were more or less the same, 3 was mirrored albeit the wall angles are bit bit different - but 2 and 4 were quite a bit more distinct

[edshakey]

Yeah I think they try to do at least similar styles, but often wall angles dictate some big differences between the actual boulders each group gets. Hence the difference in scores between groups.

Apparently mens qualis has been cancelled due to the weather. All men will compete in "semis" and then top 20 will compete in the "final". Sounds like carnage! There have been a few comps affected by rain now (Innsbruck a year or two ago, I think another too?); it's disappointing that the venues chosen for comps can be so susceptible to the weather.

[sherlock]

That's a total pisser....
Toby ,4 flashes, counts for fuck all now  ....

[lemony]

Erin McNeice through to finals with some seriously strong names missing out by the looks of it.

edit: https://www.instagram.com/stories/erinmcbeast/3342226627948271564/

[edshakey]

Didn't watch yet, but noticed Janja flashed a boulder nobody else could do. Business as usual I suppose.

Congrats to Erin for 5th, must have been a while since we had a woman in finals (especially other than Shauna)

[lemony]

Worth a watch, Erin looked a bit nervy/unsure on P1 and on the slab which I think cost her a couple of places. Janja remains a different breed entirely. P4 she could have been on a different problem.

[sherlock]

Didn't watch yet, but noticed Janja flashed a boulder nobody else could do. Business as usual I suppose.

Congrats to Erin for 5th, must have been a while since we had a woman in finals (especially other than Shauna)

Nobody, not even Janja could top W2.

[IanP]

Nobody, not even Janja could top W2.

That was in the semi final.  Out of 13 problems through the 3 rounds Janja did 12 of which 10 were flashed.  At a quick glance the next best was Luo with 8 tops and 5 flashes.  It must be really quite difficult to set for!

[remus]

It must be really quite difficult to set for!

As long as you don't mind getting slagged off by Janja on insta for setting it too easy, I guess it's not really that different to setting as you otherwise would. You 'just' set to try and separate everyone else in the final and accept that Janja is gonna flash everything and take the win, and you get good separation to decide the 2nd to 6th.

[edshakey]

Different year, same route setting challenges

It all comes back to what would generally be seen as "The Janja Issue": are they setting for the top competitor, or the 6th? There have been many finals now where Janja or Natalia has topped all the boulders with ease, and multiple other people have not even topped one. Seems like a pretty impossible task to me, especially if 2 of the super-crazy-strong women are in it and need splitting.
I fully agree that there are some routesetting issues with IFSC comps, especially women's comps, but I don't really have many ideas for how to set better when there is such a range in quality, even in just the final.

I think the route setters did a fairly respectable job this time out, good separation through the finalists - if that scorecard happened in the mens comp, we'd say it was about perfect. The only problem comes from the fact that it's the same person flashing every time, compared to mens where it might be someone different on form and winning week by week.

Hopefully the setters can handle the curveball of everyone doing semis tomorrow and adjust accordingly - I really don't envy that task. Similarly, getting a podium out of 20 finalists that doesn't mean loads of blank scorecards (I'd imagine the temptation would be to go too hard vs risking being too soft and not getting separation).

[IanP]

As long as you don't mind getting slagged off by Janja on insta for setting it too easy, I guess it's not really that different to setting as you otherwise would. You 'just' set to try and separate everyone else in the final and accept that Janja is gonna flash everything and take the win, and you get good separation to decide the 2nd to 6th.

You're probably right , and setting for Janja would possibly risk poor separation for places 2 to 6 but must feel a bit frustrating not to set problems to properly test probably the best comp climber there's ever been. 

[sherlock]

Nobody, not even Janja could top W2.

That was in the semi final.  Out of 13 problems through the 3 rounds Janja did 12 of which 10 were flashed.  At a quick glance the next best was Luo with 8 tops and 5 flashes.  It must be really quite difficult to set for!

Yeah, sorry hadn't seen the final at that point... freakin' monster.

[lemony]

Three brits in the mens semi/final hybrid later. Max, Dayan and Toby.

[edshakey]

Great performances!

Discovery+ only seems to have the last 52 mins of the morning session, anyone else just seeing that? It means none of the Brits are shown :/

[sherlock]

Great performances!

Discovery+ only seems to have the last 52 mins of the morning session, anyone else just seeing that? It means none of the Brits are shown :/

Nope, can't get it either.

[haydn jones]

[haydn jones]

[edshakey]

Another good qualifying round for GB, looks like Toby, Max, Molly and Erin are all through to semis.

[sherlock]

Looks like Max is in the Final, with 5 to climb and barring appeals.
The jamming seemed to help...

[IanP]

Looks like Erin is going to make the final as well, impressive!

[edshakey]

Toby joins them!

Good effort by Molly too, not far off

[lukeyboy]

Apologies for the ignorant question but what comp is happening now? I watched the Keqiao men's and women's bouldering, but sounds like another has followed hot on its heels?

[edshakey]

Yeah they've had a couple days off and then gone straight into lead in Wujiang. Lead season normally begins much later but I think it's been done like this for the OQS athletes to get a comp of each discipline in before that series (there's Wujiang speed on now too)

[lukeyboy]

Nice one, thanks

[lemony]

Anyone know when the last time there were three brits in finals for a world cup was? I can't remember any but maybe back to the early 90s?

[ali k]

What time is the finals live?

[teestub]

Right now dude, think it started 1230

[ali k]

Ah balls. Hopefully I can put it back to the start.

[GraemeA]

Anyone know when the last time there were three brits in finals for a world cup was? I can't remember any but maybe back to the early 90s?

Leeds 1989, Jerry, Simon Nadin, Skinny Vinnie and Leachy

[lemony]

Leeds 1989, Jerry, Simon Nadin, Skinny Vinnie and Leachy

Blimey, I thought there must have been one since then. Pretty momentous and could easily have happened at both Kequiao and Wujiang.