the shizzle > power club

Club de Poder 738 29 Jan - 4 Feb

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shark:
M. Travel. Manchester to Alicante (to fit in with Matthew’s travel plans - Malaga is closer) then 4 hour drive to near Jaen

T. Reguchillo! Beautiful place. Virtually roadside Quiet(two other teams not even on the main sweep of cliff (Sectors Celador to Heavy Metal). Came in from top and walked past an amazing section left of Celador that was unbolted for unknown reasons. Did a few easy routes then got shut down on a 6b+. Don’t know whether it had lost holds or what. Wandered down and homes in on Kukuxumuxu 7a. Was still in sun. Had to pull out all the stops to onsight this including taking full advantage of a couple of hand jams that presented themselves. Chuffed with that.

W. Reguchillo. One other team on another sector. Did some nice easy routes in the sun with a view to dogging up something hard in the late afternoon shade. However came over all tired on a burly 6b/+ and toes were screaming so called it a day.


T.

F. Reguchillo. Went shopping for a project Dogged up Terapia de Choque 7b in the shade. The low crux was desperate off a tiny minging left crimp. The rest was great but could see myself getting shut down on the crux so stripped it. Joined by an older Italian couple and their territorially barky dogs. Loitered in the sun till late afternoon. Matthew got the 7a! Decided to go on the highly rated 40m Montrebei 7c. Superb. Enjoyed dogging up it but got a bit wigged out on the runout to the final bolt and bailed. Played on my mind after and will get back and take a clip stick as it might be possible to do the route despite my current lack of fitness as the hard sections have good rests between and will be fun to try.

S. Cueva Negras. 30 min non-arduous amble through olive trees to get there. Amazing but limited wall with some stunning routes. Warmed up on a couple of short sharp 6a’s on the pillar in the middle. Then fell off the gnarly start of a 6b+/c to the right. Came down and led to top. The classic 7a was occupied by the other team - the same Italian couple as yesterday. I went on the amazing looking 30m+ 7a+ Aromas de Kalymnos expecting to fall off but did it fine getting plenty of shakes and kneebars to stave off any pump. Great stuff. The 7a was free. I was a bit tired and it was obviously burly but had a go. Bit streny to reach the crux. Somehow neglected to use the best hold on the crux. 🤦‍♂️Using a couple of crappy holds launched to catch the underside of the hanging tufa but didn’t hold it. Led on to the top but too tired for a redpoint.

S.

Glad to have got out here. Temps about 17 degrees and driving around there is rock everywhere. In fact where we are staying is a quirky cave house. Going to try for earlier starts at Reguchillo to catch more morning shade. Excited to see how I get on on the monster 7c.

Fiend:

Next week STG: Sharkathon - yes. Look after tennis elbow shoulder better - a bit but still crunchy. Do some stretching at least - yes!!.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - a couple of things. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - reasonable, but off the wagon with some. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - kinda, gym x 1 - no, elbow rehab x 2 - x1 but that was enough, shoulder rehab x 2 - x1 but should have done more, stretching x 3 - x 4!!.

M - Indoor bouldering @ Awesome Walls. 7 x V2-4, 9 x V3-5. Unfocused and slapdash. Full stretching session before which I was pleased with.

T -  Rest. 30 mins walking. Minor nausea bout so not much else.

W - Rest. Tired after Tue. Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab. Stretching. Pleased I managed to do this.

T - Some scrittle.

F - Active rest. 2 hours inspecting / cleaning routes. Fatiguing but not too tweaky. Stretching.

S - Scrittle / skin loss. 6C/+ in about 30 attempts. Attempted another 6C/+ for about 5 goes, but out of skin.

S - Indoor bouldering @ RockOver Shartson. 5 x V1-3, 7 x V2-4, 8 x V3-5 (7 flash, 1x 2nd go) 4 x V4-6 (2 flash, 1 x 2nd go, 1 x worked). 4 taped tips but motivated and rest of body felt okay. Enjoyable and varied volume session, stopped before fatigue. Cuddles with Sandy, the RO boss's dog. Stretching session after.


Mixed but okay week. Downs were digestion and poor climbing early on. Ups were better climbing at the weekend and getting back to stretching well, especially in a slothful mood on Wed evening. TE holding up okay-ish (doesn't seem to like rehab tho?) but need to keep working on my shoulder - olive oil turkish get ups are the plan, of course. Shartson session showed my climbing isn't deteriorating much from the bits of scrittle.


Next week STG: Regrow skin. Indoor volume. Look after shoulder. Keep stretching.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 2 (maybe), shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

Aussiegav:
Thanks Shark. Sounds like a great week.


Monday -
Finger board at home

18mm edge.
Half crimp 5 x 10s hangs.  BW + 5 kg


Tuesday
The Depot after work. Had 4 Redpoint attempts on the 7a+ circuit I’ve been trying the 3 weeks.
Had 4 Redpoint attempts fell at the same move 3 times as I’d done last week. I stupidly changed foot beta which made the set up move easier but the next move harder. DONT CHANGE BETA ON REDPOINT. what a school boy error.

Wednesday

Rest

Thursday
Fingerboard at home

18mm edge.

Half crimp 5 x 10s hangs.  BW + 5 kg

12mm edge.
Made a pleasant error here. Used the wrong session on Crimpd.
Did 6. Hangs at 10s (not the prescribed 7s). Also inadvertently put 5kg assistance on instead of 7.5kg.

Friday
Rest

Saturday
Went with my eldest to Awesome Walls. So I belayed him for the session. I did some easier climbing to stay warm when he rested.
On the way back I called into The Depot. Walked and pulled onto the 7a+ circuit. Did it first go. Very pleased. Left and came home. 


Sunday
Up all Saturday night spewing and aching all over.
Spent the day with sleeping, spewing or shivering.

Dingdong:

--- Quote from: Fiend on February 04, 2024, 05:22:10 pm ---

olive oil turkish get ups are the plan, of course.


--- End quote ---

Make sure it’s a first pressing ;)

Fultonius:
As per A2 pulley thread....

Planned to go for some endurance autobelays today, but spent 3-4 hours handing planing 3m ash boards to joint
 them into a top for cabinets/bookshelf.

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