the shizzle > diet, training and injuries

Training little and often over the day

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James Malloch:
I’m finding myself getting distracted at work a lot (bloody instagram) as the work is very intense/focussed meaning i do it in 45 or so minute bursts and then have a little break. But it is easy to get distracted when on your phone…

I was thinking of what training I could do whilst working which could be done in 10-15 minute chunks but with large rests between them. I have a board and fingerboard in my office so it is very easy access.

This may also be easier than using time in the evenings as they are preoccupied by our new baby at the moment so I’m struggling to use the board.

Max hangs could work (5 hangs with rest)

With 4x4’s I could fit in two sets (does having a break long break in between cause an issue?)

I can do 10-15 mins of aerocap on the board.

I could do pickups.

Maybe choose some long boulder problems and circuits to link together and have a “redpoint” once an hour.

I’d like to work on AnCap and AeroCap mainly as I would like to go into the sport season with a but of fitness built up. I feel like strength is fine for all of this years goals.

Any thoughts or advice would be welcome!

Mostly_Inanimate_Beans:
10 sets of 10 reps deleting Instagram? ;)

abarro81:
The only things I could do in that timeframe are aero cap and BFR, everything else I'd need too long to warm up...

Paul B:
This sounds like a greasing the groove type scenario. I think it might have been rubbished (I don't keep abreast of such things) but at the very least you can use your time more productively.

sdm:
Other than aerocap, I can't do anything worthwhile on the board in such small windows.

For the board or max hangs, I need half an hour to include (re) warming up to avoid injury. I can squeeze in a session at lunch or before work, but not in shorter breaks.

Things I do in shorter breaks when WFH as long as I'm at least a bit warmed up from earlier in the day:
- Aerocap or ancap repeaters
- Density hangs
- Pickups / pinch block
- Weighted pull-ups
- a superset of a couple of dumbbell or rings exercises
- stretching/ mobility work
- a circuit/superset of cardio, core, & bodyweight exercises like burpees, press ups, squats, skipping, arm balances etc


--- Quote from: Paul B on January 27, 2024, 11:54:30 am ---This sounds like a greasing the groove type scenario. I think it might have been rubbished

--- End quote ---

It probably isn't optimal, but if it's a choice between getting things done in a short window or not at all, it has to be worth doing.

Doing some short exercises throughout the day means I need much less time to warm up if I have a board session or go to the wall in the evening.

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