the shizzle > diet, training and injuries
Dry Skinners
cheque:
--- Quote from: Dingdong on January 26, 2024, 09:26:10 am ---I played guitar and still do from the age of 10 so 23 years now and it’s made no difference :lol: I don’t use the pads of my fingers, I use the tips so sadly no calluses built where I need em :p
--- End quote ---
Sounds like you need to switch to bass then! 8)
I’ve always known wearing skin on the pad away from sliding off slopers as “going through” rather than a split but a good way to toughen up your pads is to sand them a bit every day that you don’t climb.
Dingdong:
--- Quote from: cheque on January 26, 2024, 09:47:55 am ---
--- Quote from: Dingdong on January 26, 2024, 09:26:10 am ---I played guitar and still do from the age of 10 so 23 years now and it’s made no difference :lol: I don’t use the pads of my fingers, I use the tips so sadly no calluses built where I need em :p
--- End quote ---
Sounds like you need to switch to bass then! 8)
I’ve always known wearing skin on the pad away from sliding off slopers as “going through” rather than a split but a good way to toughen up your pads is to sand them a bit every day that you don’t climb.
--- End quote ---
I sometimes wear through tips but it’s usually splits that I get, especially crimping on grit or anything super crystally - I think my skin may genuinely be my most limiting factor because I find myself on pulling as hard as I can in fear of splitting… :lol:
lagerstarfish:
Possibly mentioned already and certainly mentioned by me at every opportunity...
25% urea heel balm works great for splits in hard dry skin. Also good for split and messed up nails (hands and feet). I assume that all medical trials have been on feet, but climbers hands get into a similar state.
Spread thinly at night. Improves noticeably overnight.
You can buy 40% urea cream which is good for softening any bits of nail or hard skin that you need to soften up to the point where you can peel it off after a night of being marinated.
remus:
Proper old lady stuff this, but I had a perma-split heal for a couple of years which was pretty annoying. Best thing I did for it was to get regular and aggressive with sanding back any hard, dry skin and then smash the moisturiser. A few rounds of that over a few weeks, and regular ongoing moisturising, seems to have fixed things for the moment 🤞
I think the important part is not letting hard, inflexible skin build up around the split as this then makes it very easy for the split to re-open (which is what was happening when I was just moisturising and not sanding back aggressively enough).
jwi:
I have very thick skin (due to a genetic variation) and the skin is also increadibly dry in the winter. I do get splits. Best preventive care I found is to file down the callluses on the fingertips (this probably only applies to few) but also on the creases between the phalangs (painful and nasty to sandpaper).
When the split invariably happens really fat cream helps. From the litterature it seems like there is not much of a difference between effects of different creams except the difference that can be explained by fat content. I keep the cream in place overnight with loosely wrapped athletic tape. I'm partial to creams containing dexpanthenol as it has som small but clinically proven effects ( https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/09546634.2017.1325310 ). In France I like the increadibly greasy cream with dexpanthenol sold under the brand-name Bephanten. (I do not know what it is called elsewhere)
As mentioned above Urea might also help, but should probably not be used for deep cracks with open wounds?
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