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Topic split: Grade based payment clauses in sponsorship deals. (Read 15003 times)

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The major energy drink companies do seem to be very good at looking after their athletes. I know personally a BMX rider who has had multiple private surgeries and rehab paid for by Monster on top of their usual support.

Bonjoy

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I wonder if Tomoa is still a Snickers Hero https://www.instagram.com/p/CcxbCRXPOJP/

36chambers

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Slightly on topic, but another take on this was the FA bounty competition ($1000 for 8A and $5000 for 8B is not too shabby).



Although you'd be slightly annoyed if your secret FA proj appeared on the bounty list and Jimmy Webb swooped in to casually take the FA and also claim a cash prize for it too!

Dingdong

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I’ve still got 20 quid for anyone who can flash applied stress at burbage, so far no one who’s tried it has managed it  :lol:

Paul B

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Whether you think it is right or not is down to personal tastes and the behaviour of the brands themselves. Having worked with over-caffeinated sugary drink company for years now, they truly are a class leader in protecting and supporting athletes so I will always support their presence in climbing.

I had this debate with GME regarding their new investment in the Bora cycling team. I'll caveat what I say next with what that confirmed was that I'm an idealist through and through and it's easy enough to have these opinions when such a company aren't offering you any form of cash towards your preferred hobby/career; to put it bluntly, you indirectly benefit from their sponsorship don't you? They're not doing this out of the good of their heart or some love of whichever sport they're dealing with (even if that sport (or participants) takes some kind of benefit from their money), it's simply business. Whereas the product they push is loaded with sugar and their target market isn't middle aged Dads who boulder/used to boulder. I'm sure the cigarette companies did plenty for F1.

Dingdong

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Whether you think it is right or not is down to personal tastes and the behaviour of the brands themselves. Having worked with over-caffeinated sugary drink company for years now, they truly are a class leader in protecting and supporting athletes so I will always support their presence in climbing.

I had this debate with GME regarding their new investment in the Bora cycling team. I'll caveat what I say next with what that confirmed was that I'm an idealist through and through and it's easy enough to have these opinions when such a company aren't offering you any form of cash towards your preferred hobby/career; to put it bluntly, you indirectly benefit from their sponsorship don't you? They're not doing this out of the good of their heart or some love of whichever sport they're dealing with (even if that sport (or participants) takes some kind of benefit from their money), it's simply business. Whereas the product they push is loaded with sugar and their target market isn't middle aged Dads who boulder/used to boulder. I'm sure the cigarette companies did plenty for F1.

Not sure you can put cigarettes and sugary drinks in the same category…

JamieG

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Not sure you can put cigarettes and sugary drinks in the same category…

Don't know if you have seen this. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fed_Up_(film)

But it might be worth a watch. Pretty insidious. Excess sugar in your diet is really bad for you long term!

JamieG

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It's a touch OTT at times but still a good message. Not sure where you can watch it anymore. Used to be on Netflix.


Tony

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Excess sugar in your diet is really bad for you long term!

So quite different from the cigs which are bad for human health at any quantity in any time frame...

I think Ding's comment is entirely reasonable. (I'm not saying food producers are angels.)

JamieG

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I actually mostly agree with Dingdong’s comment.

I just wanted to highlight just how bad too much processed sugar is. And how the behaviour of the sugar industry mirrors a lot of how cigarettes were/are marketed too. I think people still overlook it sometimes.

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Available here bjut not brilliant quality. Worth noting that this documentary is now 10 years old. Interesting to see if it's predictions are on track.


jwi

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I can't but help thinking that it is crazy to look to individual climbers for moral leadership. Nothing I've learned about climbers would lead me to think that is a good idea.

I suspect that demands that sponsored climbers should weigh their monetary benefits vs what is good for society in large stems from a liberal delusion of how the world works.

If refined sugar or tobacoo or weed or whatever is bad for health then we should demand regulation on how it can be sold, distribued and marketed rather than asking individual climbers to turn down sponsorship.

More on topic: Cash for grades is the only thing that can explain some grades given by FA parties on certain multipitch sport routes.

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I feel like the multipitch grading issue is more centred around risk tolerance/exposure tolerance and how this affects perception of difficulty. For the athletes who are less adapted to the big alpine walls I can see how it would result in a shift of perceived difficulty. If you’re very well adapted to that environment then that factor isn’t present and the route feels soft (which it is).

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I actually mostly agree with Dingdong’s comment.

I just wanted to highlight just how bad too much processed sugar is. And how the behaviour of the sugar industry mirrors a lot of how cigarettes were/are marketed too. I think people still overlook it sometimes.

'Too much', or 'excessive' amounts of anything are bad, literally by definition! Do you think that eating lots of sugar is bad because it isn't very satiating and therefore can more easily lead to over consumption of calories, or do you think sugar is bad independently of the calories it contains? If the former then I would tend to agree, but if the latter then I disagree because the balance of research doesn't support this claim.

All carbohydrates break down into sugar in the body. "But it's the type of sugar and the rate at which blood sugar rises that matters" I hear you cry. The most demonised form of sugar, fructose, is actually low on the glycemic-index, so how does that add up? Whilst some animal studies have shown that supraphysiological doses of fructose could cause fatty liver and obesity independently of caloric intake, systematic reviews and meta analyses on actual sugar/fructose intake in humans demonstrate that it has no effect on bodyweight when exchanged for other non-sugar carbohydrates and calories remain equal. Here is one exmaple: https://www.bmj.com/content/346/bmj.e7492

And what about exchanging sugar for dietary fat (e.g. Keto)? No difference in bodyweight or fat mass when sugar is substituted for dietary fat or protein under conditions of energy balance or in an energy deficit: ( https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18779274/ , https://academic.oup.com/jn/article/145/3/459/4743683 , https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/3740086/ )

Systematic reviews and meta-analyses have shown no effect from sugar on cardiovascular disease risk factors, glycemic control, blood lipids, etc when substituted for other carbohydrates: (https://www.cmaj.ca/content/cmaj/189/20/E711.full.pdf , https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6247175/ , https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5174149/ )

I haven't seen any systematic reviews or meta-analyses showing sugar or fructose to be fattening independently of the calories they contain. Therefore, I don't think there's any issue with climbers putting on a R3d Bu11 hat and taking a salary considering that their audience will tend to watch what they eat to some extent (probably avoiding over consumption), and exercising (climbing) regularly. For the record, I think that most people should limit sugar intake because it can lead to over consumption of calories, but it doesn't need to be avoided. The last sentence probably aligns with your views as well?

It's difficult to avoid the hysteria surrounding sugar because diet has become so tribal, and there's a lot of money to be made from selling books or Netflix documentaries. Keto zealots will shout about how bad carbs/sugar are, vegan zealots will shout about how bad meat is, fasting zealots will shout about autophagy, and so on... The truth is that all of these diets can be healthy and none are inherently good or bad. There are healthy populations in various regions around the world eating wildly different diets. One common denominator is that the current 'western diet' and lifestyle (I hate to use this phrase as it tends towards conspiracy) does seem to be uniquely unhealthy. However, sugar intake has actually dropped significantly over the last 20 years (including soft drinks) while obesity and type 2 diabetes have continued to increase (i'm getting bored of looking through my saved study references now, but it's out there if you're interested...). The cause is clearly not just one thing. Hyper-palatable processed foods (generally these have a mix of carbohydrate and dietary fat), more sedentary lifestyles, chronic stress, etc...

By the way, I don't doubt that there are poor business practices from 'big sugar'.

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All carbohydrates break down into sugar in the body. "But it's the type of sugar and the rate at which blood sugar rises that matters" I hear you cry. The most demonised form of sugar, fructose, is actually low on the glycemic-index, so how does that add up?

The other 50% of white sugar, glucose, gets full marks on the GI scale though

JamieG

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To be honest I don't really have any axe to grind here. My diet certainly isn't the healthiest. I also agree people tend to get hysterical about the whole thing. It was just in the context of Paul B saying that the way sugary drinks company behave and market their essentially very unhealthy products, isn't that dissimilar from tobacco companies. I tend to agree and get quite disheartened by the number of young people drinking them every day (sometime multiple). I think its easy to dismiss the long term damage they do, especially for kids and young adults. But I'm certainly no saint.

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All carbohydrates break down into sugar in the body. "But it's the type of sugar and the rate at which blood sugar rises that matters" I hear you cry. The most demonised form of sugar, fructose, is actually low on the glycemic-index, so how does that add up?

The other 50% of white sugar, glucose, gets full marks on the GI scale though

Yet doesn't result in negative outcomes independently of calories intake as discussed. 

JamieG

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'Too much', or 'excessive' amounts of anything are bad, literally by definition! Do you think that eating lots of sugar is bad because it isn't very satiating and therefore can more easily lead to over consumption of calories, or do you think sugar is bad independently of the calories it contains? If the former then I would tend to agree, but if the latter then I disagree because the balance of research doesn't support this claim.


Looking back at this I obvious agree 'too much' anything is obvious bad by definition. But its much easier to get 'too much' of some things than others. And it's very easy to end up with too much sugar/calories in your diet because of how they are pushed at you. But likewise I think the same thing happens with 'healthy foods/diets' too. And they are often marketed as a quick fix or shortcut to being healthier.

petejh

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I think Liam's reply contains a lot of good points but isn't the whole story with sugar. He focussed on 'fattening' and 'weight gain', but these aren't the only health metrics that matter and that sugar has been linked to. Inflammation for e.g. is another health measure excess sugar is implicated with.

The main issue is 'excess', not 'sugar' per se. But excess is a problem with sugary soft drinks because:

The soft drinks industry, supported by the sugar industry, has understandably done a very good marketing job with sugar - a simple example - drinking a can of original Red Bu|l provides the same grams of sugar as drinking an equivalent volume of orange or apple juice. This is true and fair. What isn't apparent from that fact is:
- few young people, except perhaps children of a few nutcase fruitarians, consume apple or orange juice in the volume they consume Red Bu|l and equivalent sugary soft drinks.
-  the freshly squeezed apple and orange juice industry hasn't allocated the same resources and effort into sponsorships of high-profile influencers and marketing in a mission to create a market for their product, that Red Bu|l has done for its product.
- there is a sugar levy on sugary soft drinks for good sound scientific reasons. Red Bu|l comparing one sugar-levied sugary soft drink - apple juice - with another sugar-levied sugary soft drink - red bu|l - is comparing one thing you shouldn't frequently drink a lot of with another thing you shouldn't frequently drink a lot of.


Nothing about slagging off red bu|l or equivalent soft drinks is logical when looked at in isolation, but I think the damage done to young people* by them consuming sugary soft drinks is greater than the sum of the apparent parts. I wonder how Liam or others would think about a climber being sponsored by Bet365 or pr0nHub. Nothing about having a flutter on the horses or a look at pr0n is damaging in moderation. You can break down the individual parts of the supposed damage down by excess gambling or excess pr0n viewing and conclude that there should be no harm done by those products.

The issue is that for a great many impressionable people who follow 'influencers', moderation is difficult in the face of determined, intelligent, very well-funded marketing and omnipresence of the product in the places they frequent.

My idealistic opinion of climbers who've chosen to take the money from the sugary soft drinks industry is lower than if they weren't shilling this particular product. But I'm also a realist. 


Details of the UK's sugar levy on soft drinks: https://www.instituteforgovernment.org.uk/article/explainer/sugar-tax#:~:text=The%20levy%20is%20paid%20to,8g%20of%20sugar%20per%20100ml
''Why was it introduced?
The SDIL was introduced as an anti-obesity policy. It was central to the 2016 Childhood Obesity Strategy,[3] and was informed by proposals from public health experts[4] [5] [6] and high-profile campaigners.[7] Alongside its importance for public health, supporters emphasised its potential economic benefits through reducing obesity-related NHS expenditure and wider associated barriers to labour market participation.[8]'
'


* and adults, but they're adults so should know better.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2024, 10:49:17 am by petejh »

mrjonathanr

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I’ve always believed, vaguely, that naturally occurring fructose (fruit and some veg). is not harmful because it’s consumed with fibre and cellulose and minerals and so on, whereas as an additive consumed in a refined form, it’s pretty dire.

A quick google throws up this perspective from the Guardian
https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/oct/21/fructose-poison-sugar-industry-pseudoscience

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I think Liam's reply contains a lot of good points but isn't the whole story with sugar. He focussed on 'fattening' and 'weight gain', but these aren't the only health metrics that matter and that sugar has been linked to. Inflammation for e.g. is another health measure excess sugar is implicated with.

The main  issue is 'excess', not 'sugar' per se. But excess is still a problem with sugary soft drinks because:

The soft drinks industry, supported by the sugar industry, has understandably done a very good marketing job with sugar - a simple example - drinking a can of original Red Bu|l provides the same grams of sugar as drinking an equivalent volume of orange or apple juice. This is true and fair. What isn't apparent from that fact is:
- few young people, except perhaps children of a few nutcase fruitarians, consume apple or orange juice in the volume they consume Red Bu|l and equivalent sugary soft drinks.
-  the freshly squeezed apple and orange juice industry hasn't allocated the same resources and effort into sponsorships of high-profile influencers and marketing in a mission to create a market for their product, that Red Bu|l has done for its product.
- there is a sugar levy on sugary soft drinks for good sound scientific reasons. Red Bu|l comparing one sugar-levied sugary soft drink - apple juice - with another sugar-levied sugary soft drink - red bu|l - is comparing one thing you shouldn't drink much of with another thing you shouldn't drink much of.


Nothing about slagging off red bu|l or equivalent soft drinks is logical when looked at in isolation, but I think the damage done to young people* by them consuming sugary soft drinks is greater than the sum of the apparent parts. I wonder how Liam or others would think about a climber being sponsored by Bet365 or pr0nHub. Nothing about having a flutter on the horses or a look at pr0n is damaging in moderation.

The issue is that for a great many impressionable people who follow 'influencers', moderation is difficult in the face of determined, intelligent, very well-funded marketing and omnipresence of the product in the places they frequent.

My idealistic opinion of climbers who've chosen to take the money from the sugary soft drinks industry is lower than if they weren't shilling this particular product. But I'm also a realist. 



* and adults, but they're adults so should know better.

I did cover some other health metrics, but lets do inflammation since you mentioned it. Sugar does not appear to increase inflammation in the absence of a caloric surplus:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28492492/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31067015/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24787494/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19631353/

It's worth noting that ALL foods are inflammatory when eaten to excess.

But I pretty much agree with everything else you've said.

Regarding my opinion on sponsorship from Bet365 or pr0nHub, for some reason those trouble me more, but I can't think of any rational reason why that is. I'm a boxing fan and Bet365 sponsor lots of boxing content I watch, so it's completely illogical that it would trouble me more in climbing. I wonder what odds I can get on Bosi smashing Return of the Sleepwalker within 10 sessions?

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I’ve always believed, vaguely, that naturally occurring fructose (fruit and some veg). is not harmful because it’s consumed with fibre and cellulose and minerals and so on, whereas as an additive consumed in a refined form, it’s pretty dire.

A quick google throws up this perspective from the Guardian
https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/oct/21/fructose-poison-sugar-industry-pseudoscience

Increasing fibre is associated with better health outcomes across the board.

As for the Guardian article, here is a comprehensive debunking of Robert Lustig's claims from a professional dietitian (Layne Norton PhD) and a cancer researcher (Joe Zundell). All sources are referenced. It's a very good listen, so if you are interested in this topic, wait until you have an hour to listen.



Lustig is completely wrong on much of what he says and appears to have fabricated evidence.

Layne Norton's personality can be slightly annoying at times, but in my decade plus of being interested in diet stuff, I think he puts out the best and most balanced opinions broken down in a way that's easy to understand. He isn't aligned to any one type of diet and has changed his mind on a few things in the time I've been aware of him when faced with compelling evidence. He has many good videos worth watching. 

petejh

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The issue has become too religious and too many people are entrenched.

I've also been interested in this subject for over a decade, it's one of those topics that seems to have a true answer but lots of noise from vested interests. I own a copy of the original book that started this all off - John Yudkin's Pure White and Deadly. As you probably know the current dietary battleground mostly stems from a battle of theories in the 70s between Professor Yudkin (excess refined sugars are 'bad') and Ancel Keys (excess fat is 'bad').
Keys 'won' the narrative with much support from the cereal industry - fat was bad, low fat was 'good'. Sugar filled the void that fat vacated. And rest is history.  Except that was wrong or at least it's far more nuanced than that. Keys has also been accused of manipulating evidence in support of a bias, and now we're trying to untangle the truth of a healthy diet but in a landscape of much noise from competing interests. 

Anyone interested in this stuff should read Yudkin's books and studies, and then read Ancel Keys studies, and then read meta studies of the competing theories.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2024, 11:35:46 am by petejh »

T_B

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I tried cutting sugar out of my diet completely this January and I’ve never felt so depressed. Re-introduced a little bit and hey presto my mood is way better. I like the stuff.

JamieG

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I tried cutting sugar out of my diet completely this January and I’ve never felt so depressed. Re-introduced a little bit and hey presto my mood is way better. I like the stuff.

 ;D Amazing. I like sugar too. We're literally evolved (along with lots of other primates) to want to eat high calorie sweet foods (i.e. fruit). Just naturally their wasn't that much available compared to modern diets.

Fruiting plants, the original sugar pushers, all to get to what they really want, seed dispersal. We've been played!

 

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